First project from my workshop partner

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KenB259

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My wife, for the longest time, has been wanting to be a woodworker, and spend time in my workshop with me. Scroll work has been what she has been wanting to try, so yesterday we went to Woodcraft and bought a new King Industrial 16 inch scroll saw for her. This is her first project and she did great. The saw, by the way, is the smoothest running scroll saw I’ve ever used. Passes the nickel test with flying colors.
IMG_7163.jpg



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jttheclockman

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That saw gets good ratings. It is in the Pegas and dewalt arena. Tell her to try some flying dutchman blades. They are my go to blades. I use the Penguin silver reverse #5 for most all my projects.

Be careful because that is another one of the addictive hobbies.
 

PenPal

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Kind wishes to you both and thanks for showing,sharing. So many years ago I gave my wife the ownership of several saws including a Hegner. Her preference was pinned blade for the then simplicity of changing and cutting inside ornaments. Wherever I went in the house there were cats peeping over doorways etc. Very pleasant way for her to express creativity this way. Our Annual Woodcraft guild completed their Annual Exhibition yesterday where we shared value time with members in a rare precious venue located in Canberra Bottanical Gardens in wonderful association with Australias Trees and Shrubs. Scroll work abounded and shone through as it deserves to.

Kind regards Peter and Wilma wishing a fulfilling Christmas and New Year in the offing.
 

jttheclockman

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Have any scrollsawing questions shoot them here. Be glad to help. Been scrolling for over 35 years. Nice ornament holder. Good theme too.
 

KenB259

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That saw gets good ratings. It is in the Pegas and dewalt arena. Tell her to try some flying dutchman blades. They are my go to blades. I use the Penguin silver reverse #5 for most all my projects.

Be careful because that is another one of the addictive hobbies.
John, do you know if the Flying Dutchman blades Amazon sells, one called silver reverse and one labeled ultra reverse, are the same thing? I can only find the silver reverse in assortment packs.


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jttheclockman

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https://mikesworkshop.com/collections/blades

No they are not. Ultra reverse blades have a tooth that is reversed every third tooth down the course of a blade. Reverse scrollsaw blades have a small section on the bottom of the blade of about 5 to 7 teeth that are reversed. The object of a reverse tooth is to limit the fuzzies on the back side of a piece when cut. means less sanding. A standard blade is stamped and you will notice the teeth have a taper to the right when looking at the blade head on. Ultra blades are milled and that means the teeth have a tendency to point both ways in an alternating fashion. These are suppose to be sharper because the way they are produced. Same as a bandsaw blade. They make a large assortment of blades for various thickness and hardness of woods, metal, acrylics that you are cutting. They also have spiral blades and these are difficult to learn to cut with unless you learn with right from the start. I do not like them. These blades will cut anyway you move the work piece into them. Can be daunting for beginners. I suggested the Penguin silver reverse because they are a nice blade that has a double tooth pattern and then a space which allows for saw dust to clear the kerf and with the reverse teeth on the bottom it does not grab the work piece and slam it up and down which at times ultra reverse teeth can do if you are not use to them. As I say I have been using the #5 penguin silver reverse blades for many many years. I cut mainly red oak, walnut and maples in 1/4" to 3/4" I get nice clean cuts. Speed and tension are very important and the more she uses the saw the more she will become familiar with what is right. If you click on the link I provided it will show you a profile of each blade. The name is one thing but the actual photo of the blade will tell the story.

The link I posted is where I buy my blades from. Mike Moorloch was the originator of those blades and he sold the business before he past away. I was a good friend of his and he used me to test many of his blades. These blades are made in Germany. The other big name in scrollsaw blades is Pegas which are Sweedish blades. Then you have many offshoot blades such a Delta, Olson and many more. People love to try different brands, styles, and sizes till they find a comfort blade. You may want to get a variety pack for trial.
 
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KenB259

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https://mikesworkshop.com/collections/blades

No they are not. Ultra reverse blades have a tooth that is reversed every third tooth down the course of a blade. Reverse scrollsaw blades have a small section on the bottom of the blade of about 5 to 7 teeth that are reversed. The object of a reverse tooth is to limit the fuzzies on the back side of a piece when cut. means less sanding. A standard blade is stamped and you will notice the teeth have a taper to the right when looking at the blade head on. Ultra blades are milled and that means the teeth have a tendency to point both ways in an alternating fashion. These are suppose to be sharper because the way they are produced. Same as a bandsaw blade. They make a large assortment of blades for various thickness and hardness of woods, metal, acrylics that you are cutting. They also have spiral blades and these are difficult to learn to cut with unless you learn with right from the start. I do not like them. These blades will cut anyway you move the work piece into them. Can be daunting for beginners. I suggested the Penguin silver reverse because they are a nice blade that has a double tooth pattern and then a space which allows for saw dust to clear the kerf and with the reverse teeth on the bottom it does not grab the work piece and slam it up and down which at times ultra reverse teeth can do if you are not use to them. As I say I have been using the #5 penguin silver reverse blades for many many years. I cut mainly red oak, walnut and maples in 1/4" to 3/4" I get nice clean cuts. Speed and tension are very important and the more she uses the saw the more she will become familiar with what is right. If you click on the link I provided it will show you a profile of each blade. The name is one thing but the actual photo of the blade will tell the story.

The link I posted is where I buy my blades from. Mike Moorloch was the originator of those blades and he sold the business before he past away. I was a good friend of his and he used me to test many of his blades. These blades are made in Germany. The other big name in scrollsaw blades is Pegas which are Sweedish blades. Then you have many offshoot blades such a Delta, Olson and many more. People love to try different brands, styles, and sizes till they find a comfort blade. You may want to get a variety pack for trial.
Thanks for the link. I’m going to order some blades from there. My wife asked me to ask you, where is a good place to find patterns? It seems most online links lead to dead ends.



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jttheclockman

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Thanks for the link. I’m going to order some blades from there. My wife asked me to ask you, where is a good place to find patterns? It seems most online links lead to dead ends.

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Oh my there is a ton of places to get patterns. I will try to mention some popular ones and place links.

First and foremost one of the great designers shares his patterns for free every day of the week 365 days of the year he adds a new one. I have used many of his patterns and donate a few dollars to the cause. He is a great guy and has a web chat forum too and you can ask him anything. He goes to many scrolling shows. Steve Good
https://www.stevedgood.com/catalog/

Another great source is a lady that does some remarkable patterns and I love her work also. Sue Mey. She too offers a few free patterns but her others are bought electronically.
https://www.scrollsawartist.com/

Another source I use and they have many patterns that are duplicates on other sites but i like to use them too.
https://woodenteddybear.com/

There are pattern makers that strictly make intarsia patterns, some make animal puzzles, some make portraits and the list goes on. As she continues she will find things she likes to make and even sell down the road and that is when I can help zero in on more specific places to get patterns.

There are many many more places. I did some patterns for Steebar Corp. some years back when it was under different ownership and once in awhile I check the site and see my work is still there.

The one thing I like to do is many times I will use a pattern and make my own adjustments and add or subtract things or combine two patterns. Sometimes I will resize to fit my needs. Sometimes I will layer different patterns to give a different look. Just remember you can not give away or resell a pattern. These pattern makers need to make a living from them. The finished pieces are yours to do what you want. Some pattern makers add little advisories in that can not make to sell as production but I pay no mind to that stuff.

Good luck and love to see what comes off the saw in the future. There are many tricks in dealing with scrolling and different helpful tools also. I always use a magnifier light and also a deadman foot switch so I do not have to stop and start saw with the switch on the saw. Saves wear and tear on switch because that is the one weak point on all saws. You get a feel for speed used for cutting and various thicknesses and materials require different speeds. Never use a VS foot switch in conjunction with any VS tool. You will burn the motor up. I use to see many people ask if they can use a sewing machine foot switch with a scrollsaw and that is a no no.
 

KenB259

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I did buy her a foot switch, it's just an on or off switch, I am assuming that is the same as a deadman foot switch you refer to. I seen a lot of pattern links at the Flying Dutchman site, I did, by the way, order some of the blades you recommended there.
 

jttheclockman

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I did buy her a foot switch, it's just an on or off switch, I am assuming that is the same as a deadman foot switch you refer to. I seen a lot of pattern links at the Flying Dutchman site, I did, by the way, order some of the blades you recommended there.
A foot switch can be one of two styles. The first being step on to turn on and step on again to turn off. I do not like those. The other which is called a dead man switch because it takes constant foot pressure to keep on. So if the person dies the foot comes off the switch and it stops :)) ) It is actually a momentary switch. As long as your foot is on the saw runs. It is just a matter of choice.
 

jttheclockman

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Ken I just wanted to let you and your wife of a great scrolling forum where they discuss the latest in scrolling. They talk about different scrollsaws and also have pattern makers that are willing to create patterns for free upon request. I bring this up because the King saw that you have has been talked about before there and some people there like to tune the saw to their sawing habits. Now your wife probably has not used a sw much so does not know the little nuances of a saw. But you can make a saw cut more aggressively if need be or less aggressive if need be. Many times this depends on a person's skill level. But there is an adjustment and is probably mentioned in the instruction booklet about turning the motor to increase or decrease such aggressiveness. Probably came from the factory set in the middle which is probably good for a beginner. If you want to check the site out here is the link.
https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/forum/27-general-scroll-sawing/
 

KenB259

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Ken I just wanted to let you and your wife of a great scrolling forum where they discuss the latest in scrolling. They talk about different scrollsaws and also have pattern makers that are willing to create patterns for free upon request. I bring this up because the King saw that you have has been talked about before there and some people there like to tune the saw to their sawing habits. Now your wife probably has not used a sw much so does not know the little nuances of a saw. But you can make a saw cut more aggressively if need be or less aggressive if need be. Many times this depends on a person's skill level. But there is an adjustment and is probably mentioned in the instruction booklet about turning the motor to increase or decrease such aggressiveness. Probably came from the factory set in the middle which is probably good for a beginner. If you want to check the site out here is the link.
https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/forum/27-general-scroll-sawing/
She is joining right now. She is really excited about scrolling.


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Nice ornament especially for her first go around but you've invited trouble into your domain. In my shop we have rules that apply to everyone. First you must knock before entering that way you don't scare me half to death and have something launched at you (it's happened). Second, my shop is my shop. It might not be as organized as you like but I don't want to hear about it, it's my shop. Third, if you laugh at what I'm making keep it to yourself, laughing is not allowed, it's all serious (just kidding, I laugh at myself a lot, but you can't). Fourth, safety, safety, safety (see rule one). Last and not least, if you ask a question I'll answer it and if you don't agree with my answer you have to agree that we sit down and discuss it until you agree with my answer. After all, it's my shop. My wife has her craft room where similar rules apply and I know and understand them and follow her rules. We've been married 45 years this year so it seems to be working so far.
 
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