First Kittless

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Timebandit

Timebandit

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Joined
Sep 25, 2010
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Location
Austin,TX
Hi guys. This is my first kittless pen made with the triple start tap and die. It is back/blue Lucite with black PR for the end caps and i used and El Grande front section. I dont have what i need to make my own front sections yet, but that is coming soon:smile: I am happy with the way this turned out. One of the end caps flew off during turning so i had to re-glue it. Turned out ok. Please forgive the bad photos. My photo skills are not up to par yet.

All comments are welcome.

Thanks for looking

Justin

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Timebandit said:
Hi guys. This is my first kittless pen made with the triple start tap and die. It is back/blue Lucite with black PR for the end caps and i used and El Grande front section. I dont have what i need to make my own front sections yet, but that is coming soon:smile: I am happy with the way this turned out. One of the end caps flew off during turning so i had to re-glue it. Turned out ok. Please forgive the bad photos. My photo skills are not up to par yet.

All comments are welcome.

Thanks for looking

Justin
Click to expand...

I'm yet to try a kitless pen and or to tap threads on PR but, and this questions goes to anyone that have an answer(s).
Will polishing gently the threads cut in the acrylics with the same polishing compound used to finish the pen surface, either with a soft cloth or a buffing wheel, damage/ware/destroy the threads...???

The reason to this question is that, this pen and many others I've seen here since the kitless pens have become popular/challenging, have their threads looking a little rough compared with the pen other surfaces and that, in my view, spoils the whole thing when the pen is shown open...!:frown:

It has to be a easy way to give the threads a "finish/polish" look, without damaging them so, what do you guys and gals, think...???

PS: Justin,
I am, in no way, devaluing your first attempt at a kitless pen, in fact, I think, you've done a great job on this pen, is just a little detail that I would like to see improved on these kitless pens make/cut with/in acrylics...!:wink:

Cheers
George
 
Im not sure about actually polishing the threads themselves. I did however polish up the tenon with my micro mesh prior to cutting the threads in the hope that the would be polished on the surface, but they were not. I dont have a buffing wheel right now so i cant do an experiment to see it this will work or not. I to would like to see them nice and polished but i also think that they are just going to end up unpolished form the constant on and off of the cap.

robutacion said:
Timebandit said:
Hi guys. This is my first kittless pen made with the triple start tap and die. It is back/blue Lucite with black PR for the end caps and i used and El Grande front section. I dont have what i need to make my own front sections yet, but that is coming soon:smile: I am happy with the way this turned out. One of the end caps flew off during turning so i had to re-glue it. Turned out ok. Please forgive the bad photos. My photo skills are not up to par yet.

All comments are welcome.

Thanks for looking

Justin
Click to expand...

I'm yet to try a kitless pen and or to tap threads on PR but, and this questions goes to anyone that have an answer(s).
Will polishing gently the threads cut in the acrylics with the same polishing compound used to finish the pen surface, either with a soft cloth or a buffing wheel, damage/ware/destroy the threads...???

The reason to this question is that, this pen and many others I've seen here since the kitless pens have become popular/challenging, have their threads looking a little rough compared with the pen other surfaces and that, in my view, spoils the whole thing when the pen is shown open...!:frown:

It has to be a easy way to give the threads a "finish/polish" look, without damaging them so, what do you guys and gals, think...???

PS: Justin,
I am, in no way, devaluing your first attempt at a kitless pen, in fact, I think, you've done a great job on this pen, is just a little detail that I would like to see improved on these kitless pens make/cut with/in acrylics...!:wink:

Cheers
George
Click to expand...
 
Justin, You made an absolutely Beautiful and Amazing Kitless Pen. Great job! Can't wait to see what comes next!
May I ask what size drill bits you used for the cap and body and what size tap you used for the nib section.
I'm trying to follow in your footsteps and could use a little help.
Thank you in advance,
Regards, Doc
 
Last edited:
Doc,
Looks like a M10x1 for the El Grande nib. Cap and body are the triple start from the last group buy.
wizard said:
May I ask what size drill bits you used for the cap and body and what size tap you used for the nib section.
I'm trying to follow in your footsteps and could use a little help.
Thank you in advance,
Regards, Doc
Click to expand...
 
:biggrin:YEAH!!!:biggrin: He's finally showing some of the good stuff. And this is just his first!!!:RockOn: Yes this is a gloat and I am saying I am very proud of the work this young man is doing!Beautiful stuff son and I am VERY proud of you!:biggrin::biggrin::bananen_smilies026:
 
cnirenberg said:
Doc,
Looks like a M10x1 for the El Grande nib. Cap and body are the triple start from the last group buy.
wizard said:
May I ask what size drill bits you used for the cap and body and what size tap you used for the nib section.
I'm trying to follow in your footsteps and could use a little help.
Thank you in advance,
Regards, Doc
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Cris, Thanks for the info on the El Grande nib. I just got a M10 X 1 tap from Victory machinery. I was wondering what size drill bits to use on the cap , body and nib section prior to using the taps from the group buy.
Thanks,
Doc
 
Andrew_K99 said:
I haven't seen many kitless pens that I like but this one is VERY nice and I'd be happy to own it!

AK
Click to expand...

Thank you Andrew. That is an extremely nice thing to say.:redface:

Ruby pen turning said:
Very Very nice I want to do that but I am ascared of the thin part of the nib with the male and female threads right over each other.
Click to expand...

I was as well, and it took me a little experimenting to get the right size sown for the tenon and drill hole. You are left with a few MM diameter there.
dgscott said:
Nice job! A really nice pen made from beautiful material. Keep it up!
Doug
Click to expand...

Thats Doug. Pens like yours and DrGortex are the kind of pens that inspire me. I always love seeing your work.
wizard said:
Justin, You made an absolutely Beautiful and Amazing Kitless Pen. Great job! Can't wait to see what comes next!
May I ask what size drill bits you used for the cap and body and what size tap you used for the nib section.
I'm trying to follow in your footsteps and could use a little help.
Thank you in advance,
Regards, Doc
Click to expand...

Hi Doc, For the cap i am using the triple start threads from the group buy. For the drill size on the cap i used a 7/16. For the nib section i used the 10 x 1 for the El Grande front section. It worked for now, but i might try and 8 x .75 later and get a little more meat on those threads. All you really need for the ink cartridge is a 7mm hole. If you want a converter to fit you will need at least an 8mm hole, so there are a few thing to think about.I am also going to be making my own front sections soon so this will also change the diameter of my nib and front section, so my design might be changing a little bit as i go. But so far i think this is a good start. Thanks for your encouragement Doc, and everyone else for that matter. I am really pleased that everyone likes it.:biggrin:

Justin
 
Excellent job Justin! I don't know what the deal is with that blank, lighting or what, I can't figure it out. But that is very cool.
 
bluwolf said:
Excellent job Justin! I don't know what the deal is with that blank, lighting or what, I can't figure it out. But that is very cool.
Click to expand...

Mike the blank is part blue and part black or dark navy. If you took a one inch blank that was the darker material and then ran a half inch strip of the lighter blue through the middle of one side to the opposite side, that is what the blank looks like. You get a lot more of the blue on smaller diameter pens and you can get it to pop even more by reverse painting the tube a bright blue.
 
IPD_Mr said:
bluwolf said:
Excellent job Justin! I don't know what the deal is with that blank, lighting or what, I can't figure it out. But that is very cool.
Click to expand...

Mike the blank is part blue and part black or dark navy. If you took a one inch blank that was the darker material and then ran a half inch strip of the lighter blue through the middle of one side to the opposite side, that is what the blank looks like. You get a lot more of the blue on smaller diameter pens and you can get it to pop even more by reverse painting the tube a bright blue.
Click to expand...


Mike's right Mike. Its like you made a segmented blank with the blue in the middle. It changes as you rotate the pen. And its got the little whisps in there. Very cool effect. I didnt paint this one. You cant see through it anywhere. The cap is 5/8 so if you went smaller you might see through, but i dont think you could get it to normal pen tube thickness, so i dont think it would be very transparent.
 
Thats a great start Justin. One of the amazing things about these pens is that the materials for ones like this are less than $10. The taps and dies pay for themselves pretty quickly. You're well on your way.
 
Awesome pen Justin , sorry I missed it first time around . You should study up on different filling systems , that pen as a button filler would rival those made by any major pen manufacturer . A suggestion on the thread to body transition , if you turn a short tenon at the transition and a recess in the cap it will make the transition allot less noticeable and more comfortable to hold or chamfer the step and chamfer the inside of the cap you won't loose the fit and will make the transition look allot smoother . Either way would work and would make an awesome pen into a spectacular pen . Can't wait to see where you go from here .

Edit:
Lupe is correct , if you are not using a lube while cutting the threads they will come out a little rough (depending on the material) . Pam cooking spray is what most of us have found works best for cutting clean , almost polished threads . You can buff them on a soft wheel but you will change the geometry of the thread which may cause problems over time .
 
Last edited:
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Wow, if it wasn't for the recent replies then I would have missed this one too. Look really good and I like that blank too. Well done!!
 
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