first celtic knot and a sliced one

[howsitwork]

ok photos are just ipad shots as these are two made recently. The first is my first successful celtic knot. There are several faults mainly around the glue line being visible but overall I am happy it's finally worked. I shall switch to epoxy for future ones as this was gorilla glue . It did fill the gaps but is now visible looking closely. I think I shall colour the epoxy black so it gives a definite line at the interface. Beech and mahogony for the knot .

The second one was on a whim as I had some holly strips and thought it might look different. Holly and walnut . Both finished with melamine.

 

[Lucky2]

Very nice.

Len

 

[jttheclockman]

You are off and running. Good luck.

 

[howsitwork]

You are off and running. Good luck.

there are so many blanks " put to one side as they aren't quite right but this one I was happy with and finished. Many thanks to you and Len for the kind encouragement.

 

[KenB259]

Once you figure out a Celtic knot, you'll wonder why it was so hard. Good job.

 

[Bats]

I think I shall colour the epoxy black so it gives a definite line at the interface. Beech and mahogony for the knot .

Be careful on that one - try it first on some offcuts before starting your real glueup. On some woods I've run into the black bleeding into the grain, which looks... less than attractive. Especially when it's a light-colored wood.

 

[Alan Morrison]

Good job on the knot, Ian, and especially so seeing as it's your first one.

Alan

 

[Kcimdrib]

Nice one Ian like them both Tightbond works but best yo leave overnight to dry but dries clear. But I like both well done.

 

[RichAldrich]

Looks good!

 

[howsitwork]

Once you figure out a Celtic knot, you'll wonder why it was so hard. Good job.

true Ken and your work ( and several others on this site )inspired me to keep trying. It's so strange making crosses and turning them into knots but when you work it through logically …

 

[howsitwork]

Be careful on that one - try it first on some offcuts before starting your real glueup. On some woods I've run into the black bleeding into the grain, which looks... less than attractive. Especially when it's a light-colored wood.

Yes that's a concern especially as I like slow setting epoxy but using mica powder to turn it black I figure I'll be ok? Anyone care to comment on that statement positively or negatively before I go ahead?

 

[KenB259]

Yes that's a concern especially as I like slow setting epoxy but using mica powder to turn it black I figure I'll be ok? Anyone care to comment on that statement positively or negatively before I go ahead?

I cant comment on dying epoxy, but I usually use titebond translucent glue on my all wood knots, glue lines just disappear.

 

[Kcimdrib]

Yes that's a concern especially as I like slow setting epoxy but using mica powder to turn it black I figure I'll be ok? Anyone care to comment on that statement positively or negatively before I go ahead?

I have used Spirit Stain just a drop to colour Epoxy.

 

[Bats]

Yes that's a concern especially as I like slow setting epoxy but using mica powder to turn it black I figure I'll be ok? Anyone care to comment on that statement positively or negatively before I go ahead?

I haven't done a lot with mica powdered - usually I've used either alumilite liquid dye or black oxide powder. Initially I thought it was the liquid causing the problem, but the powder had the same result. It's hit or miss between woods, though (and sometimes between batches of the same wood - I've had some maple that works perfectly, and some that bleeds like crazy), which is why I suggested testing first. In some cases - like some holly that I really wanted to use black epoxy infill on, but kept getting the color bleeding into the grain - I've even gone so far as to stabilize the wood first.

(mind you, I don't usually test first. I just go ahead and ruin my glue-ups and then swear profusely at whoever - or whatever inanimate objects - will listen)

 

[howsitwork]

I haven't done a lot with mica powdered - usually I've used either alumilite liquid dye or black oxide powder. Initially I thought it was the liquid causing the problem, but the powder had the same result. It's hit or miss between woods, though (and sometimes between batches of the same wood - I've had some maple that works perfectly, and some that bleeds like crazy), which is why I suggested testing first. In some cases - like some holly that I really wanted to use black epoxy infill on, but kept getting the color bleeding into the grain - I've even gone so far as to stabilize the wood first.

(mind you, I don't usually test first. I just go ahead and ruin my glue-ups and then swear profusely at whoever - or whatever inanimate objects - will listen)

With you on that method ! I usually think about it , then damn it and try anyway as long as the method or technique seems safe to me.

Learned that when a yew bowl fractured in half . SWMBO had bought me a face shield a week or so previous and I WAS wearing it , saved me some serious injury as it bounced off the shield , wall and door 6 feet away leaving a gash in the hardwood door. Some 23 years ago and I remember it well. Still got the bowl somewhere to remind me !