Finishing question

[BULLWINKLE]

I'm a big fan of a finish that was used by chair maker Sam Maloof. It's a mixture of tung oil and polyurethane. I prefer teak oil when I mix it up. I've used it a lot on flat work but not on turnings because of its very slow drying and curing time. Has anyone tried this on turnings? Or perhaps just oil finishes ? I find it to be very durable and it retains the feel of the wood. Thanks

 

[jttheclockman]

I have not used that but a big fan of Danish oil which is similar. The thing is if you are mixing your own then do as they do add driers to the mix and you cut down on time for drying. There are recipes on the internet of people making their own finishes. check into finishing sites. I believe the name of it was Homestead finishing or something like that that I use to belong to had a forum where they discussed finishing techniques. Just remember any oil will tint the color of wood. More noticeable on lighter woods.

 

[dogcatcher]

I also prefer to use an oil finish. I have the patience to spend a little time each day for a week or more to do it right. I am too lazy to type out the steps but a Google search of "Frank Whiton classic gunstock finish" will get you similar instructions to my method.

I do make my own finish using BLO, mineral spirits and spae varnish. Final is 1:1:1. I mix daily as needed. First coats are 1:2:1. Third and fourth goes to about 1:1.5:1 final is 1:1:1. And adjusted as I think might be better.

I use veterinarian syringes to measure the mixing. When finished using them I rinse in mineral spirits so I can reuse. I have an endless supply from my Veterinarian.

Side note, the syringes also make great one shot water guns.

 

[BULLWINKLE]

Thank you for the reply. I'm going to try that.

 

[leehljp]

I am also a fan of Sam Maloof finishes. But not necessarily on pens. Maloof's finish along with the Danish oils and dryers will work great in certain contexts.

Recognize that these finishes that allow the feel of real wood are made for woods that are not handled in the same way that pens are. The hand pressure on pens in specific spots, often done with sweaty palms and fingers are different than the way most furniture pieces are handled. Therefore - regular light touch cleaning is necessary, or it will look like a kitchen cabinet handle after a couple of years of use. High End Pens with this finish will look and feel great, but do need different and consistent care than CA/Lacquer finished pens do. High End pens owners in general will care about the finish of their pens and clean it regularly.

These finishes also require more time to cure - something most pen turners try to avoid. Patience will reward those who allow proper curing times with such finishes. Even with dryers added to the finish. 24 - 48 hours or even a week later after applying the last finish layer will reward you. Japanese lacquer (urushi) commonly takes a month for proper finish and curing.

 

[BULLWINKLE]

Hank, I agree with what you're saying. I often use lacquer because it's fast drying and doesn't change the feeling of the wood. I rarely use CA because while it's fast and durable it makes the wood feel like a plastic. I want to try the Maloof type finish one day even though I agree with the issues you have mentioned. If nothing else an experiment. You don't know until you try.

 

[dogcatcher]

A tool handle finish that I make is made with flaxseed oil that is first sun bleached. Then mixed with some melted beeswax.

An artist taught me the sun bleach technique decades ago. Basically pour some pure flaxseed oil into a quart jar add equal amount of water. Shake it up and set in the sun. The refined aka linseed oil will separate from the water and "stuff" in the flaxseed oil.

Or buy sun bleached oil. It's easier. Then melt beeswax and add enough wax to the linseed oil to create a paste.

 

[BULLWINKLE]

A tool handle finish that I make is made with flaxseed oil that is first sun bleached. Then mixed with some melted beeswax.

An artist taught me the sun bleach technique decades ago. Basically pour some pure flaxseed oil into a quart jar add equal amount of water. Shake it up and set in the sun. The refined aka linseed oil will separate from the water and "stuff" in the flaxseed oil.

Or buy sun bleached oil. It's easier. Then melt beeswax and add enough wax to the linseed oil to create a paste.

Sounds like that would not only make a good finish but would be easy enough.
I am going to experiment with all the suggestions I received and decide which one is best. I doubt that there's a huge difference between different oils except the time it takes to cure. Thanks for that recipe ! I have lean to give it a try.

 

[dogcatcher]

Do it the easy way, buy a can of Minwax wipe on poly. Mix up small amounts of the types of you want to try. 2/3 WOP to 1/3 ?Oil. BLO or tung.

There is a lot of info on the Maloof version of oil finish on Google.
The wax version I use with tool handles developed a used patina that looks and feels good. I use it in some pens but only for people that I know will appreciate the feel of real wood. Not many of us left.

 

[BULLWINKLE]

Thanks Dogcatcher. Ive used Maloof finish for years on flat work. I've just never used it on pens. Mine differs from Maloof in that I use teak oil in place of tung oill.
I wholeheartedly agree that wood should be finished in any method that retains the feel of natural wood. CA is fine for a edc pen that will see a lot of use, if that's what someone wants. No right or wrong here just personal preference. I prefer to keep wood looking like furniture and feeling like wood. Also, I do like the patina that occurs. Gives it character.

 

[TellicoTurning]

I see all these finishing techniques here... not into anything elaborate for me...I did make up my own version the Yorkshire grit tht6 I apply to all my turnings on the raw wood after sanding to 400 to 800 depending on the wood... then I use a coat or two of Old Master's sanding sealer.. I can get it locally and reasonably, then 2 or 3 coats of wipe on poly....the oil and wax in the abrasive grit will darken the wood slightly, and so does the sanding sealer, but not enough to be concerning.
I've not tried any of the other finishes mention in this thread... I tend to want to finish and move on to the next project/

 

[dogcatcher]

I am an admitted finish junkie. I have tried almost every finish known to mankind. I am on numerous woodworking and wood hobby forums. If someone mentions a finish I have to try it.

On some "artist" type forums the bar gets raised and lowered pretty often with specialized/secret "formulas". Somebody will read about some concoction from years or centuries ago and off we go on the search for what it was. I have mixed up a fortune in special finish concoctions. Some work better than others. The "others" get used on my farm trailer beds to help preserve the woods.

The BLO, mineral spirits and spar varnish version and the wipe on poly mixed with BLO version are my standard go to versions. Basically they are just a Danish and Teak oil finish.

For those of you in the southwest try dissolving some mesquite resin in alcohol and adding a little BLO to the mix.

But one of these days I will find another to try. LOL