finishing question

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jbyrd24

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Good evening all:-)
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
When finishing my pens I have been using EEE-Ultra Shine
and then several coats of Crystal Coat High Gloss. It appears
that after some use the gloss appears to start wearing off.
Just wondering if I need to do something different or possibly
applying a poly coat over this.

Thanks
Bryan
 
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I've not used the HUT Crystal Coat, but I do use the EEE on all my wood pens. I'm pleased with what it does, but I usually will either apply Minwax paste finishing wax over it, or I will use the Deft spray laquer. It just depends on the wood, and what finish look I want to achieve. I also usually apply the EEE 2 times. The big thing I have discovered, is I use several clean cloths to remove & buff it. Any residue left on the pen will degrade the final overall finish. This is just what I do, and I'm sure others will gladly share what works for them as well.
 
I'm not a fan of the EEE. That product is a mixture of pumice abrasive, wax and a solvent to soften the wax. If you are going to use wax as your final finish, then ok. But if you plan to finish with lacquer or poly then it's near impossible to remove and degrades the topcoat quality. I also don't care for the Crystal Coat as a finish. I would suggest you toss both. Sand the wood with sandpaper and MM, apply a good sealer, sand again, then apply your topcoat...either lacquer or poly. Just my $0.02.
 
I know longer use EEE, I have had some bad results with it. But I have seen others here that use it and like it. If you do use EEE and use a poly as a topcoat make sure you clean off all of the EEE
 
Well, guess I use EEE Ultra Shine differently. But I don't use it until "after" I've applied and sanded my CA finish. It does a great job of removing any imperfections and shining up the pen. After the EEE I buff in Renaissance Wax. This method has worked pretty well for me.
 
Tom...EEE works well as a polishing medium as you are using it. It fails (IMHO) when it's applied to bare wood. That's where it causes problems...when you try to apply a topcoat over it.
 
I have stop using EEE as I did'nt care for the residue it left behind tus hindering my top coat. I also think that friction polishes do not hold up except friction lacqure. I do a lot of BLO/CA finishes now. just my .02
 
By way of sharing other learnings with the group, I spoke with Barry Gross earlier tonight. For those of you who don't know him, Barry is a well-respected turner who is regularly published. I have his pen-making book and it's right up there with Dick Sing's. Barry shared his finishing method with me and I'll pass it along.

He skews to near final size, the uses abralon pads starting with 500 and working his way up to 4000 grit. He then uses EEE with the lathe spinning. Afterwards he cleans off the residue before applying Behlen's Woodturner's Finish.

I'm not endorsing this method, but Barry's pens command premium prices at the major pen shows like the one a week or so ago in Philadelphia.

I guess the point here is to try sufficient finishing techniques and products until you get one that works for you, then spend the rest of your time perfecting it. Many paths will get you there, but you must master the path you choose.
 
When you are polishing the wood you are "bending" the fibers over in the same direction.
Serious and I mean real searious boulw turners have lathes that reverse.
In pen turning you can do the same thing by reversing the blanks on hte Mandrel.
Puart of your problem is Krystal Koat I too tried it and like you it llloked great until a day or two.
I belive this is a combination of the fibers relaxing and the fact that KK is just not that good of a finish.
All finishes have a learning curve.
I would talk to the guys at Woodturningz and ask them them about the Mylands 3 step finish.
Sanding sealer, high build polish and carnauba wax.
After 12 -24 hours Lou's TSW.
After using this method, I have not needed CA except for extreme cases.
 
I used to use Crystal Coat a lot. Now I only use it on non-wood blanks or blanks with a high amount of resin in them. I find it works well on them. Just bought EEE and haven't used it yet.

For wood blanks I use Behlen's to seal and provide a good base and then use a high-build friction finish before the 3-part bealle buffing system.

I also have Ren Wax and TSW which I play around with to "dress up" pens that I think need it, or to "refresh" older pens.

By way of disclaimer, however, I am of the school that doesn't want high-gloss shines and plasticized feels to all my pens. I also sell only as a sideline - my pens are my pens and made to no one else's standards.
 
I sure hope he does Jake. And if you decide to try TSW, make him buy it. After our recent emails, you should have earned enough brownie points such that you don't have to spend your allowance.
 
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