Finishing Cartridge pens.

[jttheclockman]

Do you sand or just polish cartridge pens. If you sand what do you use and how do you do it.??? I asked this question on another forum and a person answered saying there is a difference in a mirror finish by sanding as opposed to just polishing. Has others found this??/ I thought by sanding you would get swirl marks and not be able to get them out. I tried using 12000 micromesh but to me it just made a black mess of the micromesh. Maybe I need to start lower grit and work up??? Not sure. Looking for help.

 

[Nick]

polishing cartrages

I have the Beal system and only use 2 of the wheels. The first with tripoli and the second with White diamond. Then wipe off the black areas that remain with Alcohol then Powder coat them with Clear. Seems to work fine.

 

[TBone]

John,

Sand until you get any deep scratches out. Then after working through all the grits, use automotive swirl removing polish or Brasso. This will polish the final surface and remove any fine scratches.

 

[rherrell]

I find using MM on brass is not a good idea for the same reason. It makes a black mess and MM is too expensive.
I use silicone carbide ( automotive wet/ dry paper) used dry, cut into 1" strips. 1 strip for 1 casing then throw it away. I use 600 grit and then polish on a dedicated brass wheel with blue polishing compound. This is good enough FOR ME but you can sand with finer grits. Try 600, 800, 1000 and then buff. That should do the trick.:wink:

 

[Sylvanite]

John,

You can polish a rough surface, and you'll end up with a shiny rough surface. A brass case comes from the factory covered in really tiny scratches that scatter reflected light every which way. Polishing will make the surface shiny, but won't remove those scratches. If you want a mirror reflection in the brass, you'll have to sand those scratches out using progressively higher grits of sandpaper, liquid abrasives, and/or buffing. Then you can polish the surface for shine.

Think of it as analogous to sanding a wood pen. If you want the grain to pop, you'll have to sand the surface smooth after turning. You can put all the ca/lacquer/poly/etc. on a rough surface (and it will be shiny), but it won't look smooth.

If you like the factory fresh look, fine. Just polish. That's all I do on the cartridges I sell. If you want a mirror-reflective surface, you'll have to sand.

Regards,
Eric

 

[jttheclockman]

Thanks all. I knew I would get a good answer here. I think I will try both ways and really see if there is that much difference. Yes I think I will use the wet dry paper because MM is too expensive for this.

 

[TellicoTurning]

John,
I do both, depending on what the cartridge looks like when I start... when I do sand, I use a high grit and I don't know what the grit is since it's not marked on the package, but the abrasive is plastic backed and the abrasive side is somewhere over 4 digits, it's pretty slick.... I don't get any scratches and usually will take away any marks already on the brass. I use this same abrasive to polish my antler as well.

I get it at Michael's in their wood department... it comes in 5 x 5 or 5 x 6 inch sheets and is in a clear package with a black cardboard label. I've forgotten the brand name and have thrown away my last package label. I usually cut the sheets into 3/4 to 1 inch strips...

After the sanding process, I polish with good ole' Brasso.