Finishes: Three non-Polyurethane, Nor CA

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leehljp

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While CA is the major finish for most pens, some people do not or cannot use CA. I am including a link that I got in my email this morning that focuses primarily on flat work or bowl/spindle work. However, it can apply to Pens and often there are pen turners who come here and begin looking for alternatives to CA. This article is about alternatives to Polyurethane, the major finish in flat work.

It can applications to pen finishing as well.

 
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studioseven

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I had never been bothered by CA odors until this last week. I was wondering if it was an age thing or the result of using a new brand. I was trying Mercury. Comments?

Seven
 

monophoto

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Hank

Interesting articles - identifies the three 'basic food groups' of finishing.

I use a lot of 'danish oil' in my shop for items other than pens. Danish oil is essentially a drying oil (traditionally BLO, Tung oil, or walnut oil although some commercial products may use other oils such as safflower) mixed with a thinner, and possibly with varnish solids. Actually, I make my own by combining a high-quality alkyd varnish with pure Tung oil and turpentine (equal quantities) - wipe on, allow to soak for around an hour, and then wipe off. I typically use three applications, allowing 2-6 hours of cure time between coats, and buffing lightly with a gray niweb pad between applications.

I also use a lacquer, especially on pens. I make up a friction polish consisting of a brushing lacquer, lacquer thinner, and pure Tung oil. This is applied just like shellac-based friction polishes (wipe on, spin at high speed while rubbing to generate friction and heat), and reapply as desired to build depth. The advantage of friction polish is that it is applied quickly (no need to wait hours between applications), and when made using lacquer, it withstands the rigors of use just as well as CA. Shellac-based friction polishes (OB Shine Juice, and most commercial friction polishes) don't hold up well because shellac can't withstand the abrasion and oils associated with frequent handling that pens get in ordinary use.

But I also use thinned lacquer all by itself. This is a great finish for bottle stoppers, and it buffs beautifully using either a wax-buffing paste (TriplEEE, Dr. Kirks, Yorkshire Grit, Acks, etc) or the traditional three-wheel buffing sequence.

I do keep shellac, but I mainly use it as a sanding sealer or barrier coating rather than as a final finish.
 

dogcatcher

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I use a lot of teak oil, I also apply multiple coats, as in at least 5, sometimes more. Each coat applied about 24 hours apart, for my procedure look at Frank Whiton's Classic Gunstock Finish. https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037

It is about the only finish that met my criteria for matching the high dollar gunstock finishes that I wanted/ I also applied it to my custom game calls. My theory is if the customer is paying this kind of price, he/she deserves this type of finish. Even with this finish there is a certain point that it is too much finish applied.
 

leehljp

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I had never been bothered by CA odors until this last week. I was wondering if it was an age thing or the result of using a new brand. I was trying Mercury. Comments?

Seven

Seven,

For most and different people, allergic reactions to CA are a matter of time. I was not bothered by it for about 2 1/2 years. I made many pens and finished them with CA. Then one evening about 2 hours after making a couple of pen, I started getting the sniffles and my nose started running. Allergies took over with symptoms like a cold for two days. A week later, I made two or three more. 2 - 3 hours later it was like the flu without stomach virus. My nose was like Niagra falls. Someone on here alerted me to CA fume allergies. The next time I made a few pens, a month later, I got double vision.

For different people there are different severities and maybe somewhat different symptoms. I tried different finishes but at that time I didn't have patience for anything but the quick finish of CA. I built a dust collection system and purchased a couple of very good respirators that were good for basic chemical fumes. That stopped my CA allergies - provided I use the respirators and DC system when finishing the pens.

Take it seriously!
 

howsitwork

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Thanks for that Hank. Interesting reading.

I have some german made Pen finish I intend to try but currently am busy playing with new cross cutting saw so lathe buried under stuff to give space to play!
 

sorcerertd

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Sep 30, 2019
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North Carolina, USA
Seven,

For most and different people, allergic reactions to CA are a matter of time. I was not bothered by it for about 2 1/2 years. I made many pens and finished them with CA. Then one evening about 2 hours after making a couple of pen, I started getting the sniffles and my nose started running. Allergies took over with symptoms like a cold for two days. A week later, I made two or three more. 2 - 3 hours later it was like the flu without stomach virus. My nose was like Niagra falls. Someone on here alerted me to CA fume allergies. The next time I made a few pens, a month later, I got double vision.

For different people there are different severities and maybe somewhat different symptoms. I tried different finishes but at that time I didn't have patience for anything but the quick finish of CA. I built a dust collection system and purchased a couple of very good respirators that were good for basic chemical fumes. That stopped my CA allergies - provided I use the respirators and DC system when finishing the pens.

Take it seriously!

That's a pretty nasty reaction, Hank. I get that sinus thing going every now and then. I'll have to pay close attention to the timing in relation to when I'm using CA. I always applied it on the lathe with the dust collector on. I didn't even realize CA had the nasty fumes until I decided to recoat a barrel without doing other stuff in the shop and didn't bother turning on the dust collector for it. The fumes hit me pretty strongly, so I went right back to using the dust collector to pull them away. I think it may speed drying time by pulling air past the CA anyway.

I'm actually looking for a new finish to try. The Aussie Oil is great stuff, though I don't know it's durable enough for a pen. If I'm not mistaken, I think that has shellac in it.
 
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