Finish type

[WriteON]

This is an interesting blank to be with a Civil War pen. Do not want a high gloss CA finish. I have Tru-oil, Danish oil, can use a few light coats of thin CA. Can sand with coarse paper and have a rugged worn look before oiling. Comments please. If I do not use what you suggest do not be offended. Thanks. Frank

 

[wolf creek knives]

Here's my standard finish.
Mounted on your lathe friction apply around 3-4 coats of WOP. It will get sticky feeling on the rag so you'll know when to add a bit more. Let it sit overnight.
Day two- Take some 00 steel wool and lightly go over the blank by "turning" on your lathe. All I do is take the sheen off. Then apply a very light coat of WOP again as a friction finish but don't let it get sticky, use a light coat. Let it sit overnight
Day Three- Take the blank off your lathe and use some 400 grit SP to clean the tube ends of any WOP. You can either buff it now with you choice of wax or, like I do, assemble the pen and then buff.
This has worked great for me and hasn't had any problems.
Just my idea, I'm sure there's a bunch more good ones out there that I might even look at.

 

[mark james]

Interesting thought. Hmnnn, I would consider 2-3 light coats of CA, let cure overnight just to insure it curing, then use 0000 steel wool, or fine sandpaper or wood shaving/burnish to take the sheen off. And then sure, a courser grit if you want a texture.

A lovely blank. Stay healthy

 

[WriteON]

3 light coats of thin .... Hit it with EEE and Renaissance. I think the blank is from Edgars BOB. Has a satin finish. This is a keeper.

 

[magpens]

Beautiful result !!

Thanks for showing !!

 

[MyDadsPens]

I am not an expert pen turner (only done hundreds, not thousands like many of the guys here) but I have made furniture and cabinetry for 30 years and I can tell you if a person will pay $300 for a stickley chair with lots of distress that typifies that it is 125 years old - they will pay a $1,200 for the same chair in "new old stock" condition. So I personally would err on the side of less distress and more "shine" for any project.
Also I think getting opinions from laypeople is of value. After I had been turning pens for a few years - my girlfriend one day says "hey I forgot, I once received a wood pen as a gift" - after digging through a couple of old boxes she produced her wood pen - it was 15 years old - very well made and shaped BUT very uninspiring - it was light wood (Walnut sapwood) and had been finished with a friction finish (or wax or oil) - she said she stopped using it because it had gotten "dingy, and drab"

I myself hate CA finish not because of look or feel but because of numerous flaws that can happen in application -love lacquer but its very expensive ---- But I am always hesitant of any oil, wax, or friction finish that will disappear in 4-6 years and leave a drab dingy pen in the bottom of a box - my hope for all my pens is that they will sit on someone's desk like mine right, between my 1937 lever fill Sheaffer pen and my 1965 Parker 51 (both old pens have been buffed to look a shinny as possible)

I think the dark oily woods like cocobollo probably do better with the low sheen, worn look than light woods like you have - Oh and for those of you that like distressed old looking pens I have dozens of blanks with foggy or white spots in the CA finish I will sell very cheap

Oh and I agree with Mark James - my vote -knock down the sheen on a CA, Shellac, or lacquer finish

 

[Pierre---]

Apply CA as usually, but when sanding with MM, just stop when you find it to your taste. Up to 2400 for instance is not high gloss and looks quite natural.

 

[wolf creek knives]

Just an FYI, somebody asked why I don't use CA (not posted here). Everytime I try it I get a bloody nose even through my Trend Pro face shield. I figure something about it doesn't agree with my nose.

 

[wouldentu2?]

Just an FYI, somebody asked why I don't use CA (not posted here). Everytime I try it I get a bloody nose even through my Trend Pro face shield. I figure something about it doesn't agree with my nose.

Try the BSI supergold it is odorless and may not bother you. I had similar but lesser problems, I have used it for 10 years and never had another problem. I use it with the craftfoam which allows me to put on one to two drops per coat. No extra CA on a towel to bother you.

 

[ramaroodle]

Just an FYI, somebody asked why I don't use CA (not posted here). Everytime I try it I get a bloody nose even through my Trend Pro face shield. I figure something about it doesn't agree with my nose.

Then you definitely need to stop using CA!!!

 

[wolf creek knives]

Then you definitely need to stop using CA!!!

I don't use it at all. I've got the original little bottle that came with the kit and it's almost full. Probably no good so I should just chuck it.