Instead of wasting tubes and kits, I took some scrap pieces of wood and and drilled holes in them and put them on my mandrel. I have not made any pens yet, but wanted to make sure I could do the finish before I made a complete pen. I thought the shape turned out well, I sanded to 600 and then used paper bag strips. I tried a BLO/CA finish on three different pieces of wood. I tried blo first, I tried the CA first, one out of 3 pieces looked decent. It was not very shiny but it was an even coat. I am using medium glue. most of the time it would clump up around one side or the other and have to be sanded down. Then there was the fumes. I had glasses on, but they were not match for the fumes, I couldn't see or hardly breath for a few minutes and had to quit, My eyes feel irritated this morning. Any suggestions? All the videos make it look so simple. I read that some of you are using laquer, is there any tutorials on that process, I did not see one in the library? Thanks
Finish Problems
- Thread starter musky
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woody350ep
Member
to address the fumes. Have a fan blowing across from one side to the other. for example, left to right or right to left. That keeps the fumes moving away, which helps. Wear a face shield. It helps to keep fumes from getting in your face. You will still be able to smell it, but just enough to let you know it is curing. You can always open the garage door or a window, this helps too for air movement. Just the things I do. YMMV
I tried again this afternoon. unsuccessful
10 drops med ca on a paper towel, sided to side on the blank.
Puddle of BLO on another p towel, and did the same thing, this is where is messes up. not sure if i am using too much of one or the other but it starts drying in places and not others, and it is not smooth and shinny at all. I have watched the videos on here but for some reason it is not working out.
I am ready to make some pens but don't want to mess up the finish.
I read some on a plexiglass finish. Is this an easier process for a beginner?
10 drops med ca on a paper towel, sided to side on the blank.
Puddle of BLO on another p towel, and did the same thing, this is where is messes up. not sure if i am using too much of one or the other but it starts drying in places and not others, and it is not smooth and shinny at all. I have watched the videos on here but for some reason it is not working out.
I am ready to make some pens but don't want to mess up the finish.
I read some on a plexiglass finish. Is this an easier process for a beginner?
After you have it sanded down to at least 400....
Try 1-2 drops of BLO on the paper towel, rub it across the wood first. Then drizzle a small amount of thin CA across the spinning blank as you continue going side to side with the paper towel for 10-20 passes. Repeat that process 3-4 times; no accelerator, the paper towel will make it harden. Do it right and it will be glass smooth, if not go back to about 220 sand paper and start over. Eventually you will get it.
I admire that you are testing and learning how before applying it to a pen.
By the way, there are over 6000 members of IAP and between them there are just over 5000 different methods of applying BLO/CA; all of them work sometimes, none of them work all the time. The other 1000 turners don't use BLO/CA.
Try 1-2 drops of BLO on the paper towel, rub it across the wood first. Then drizzle a small amount of thin CA across the spinning blank as you continue going side to side with the paper towel for 10-20 passes. Repeat that process 3-4 times; no accelerator, the paper towel will make it harden. Do it right and it will be glass smooth, if not go back to about 220 sand paper and start over. Eventually you will get it.
I admire that you are testing and learning how before applying it to a pen.
By the way, there are over 6000 members of IAP and between them there are just over 5000 different methods of applying BLO/CA; all of them work sometimes, none of them work all the time. The other 1000 turners don't use BLO/CA.
flyingmelon
Member
Plexi
I have tried the plexi finish. I think in some ways it is easier then the CA/Blo. I know there are not the fumes that CA gives off. The trick with plexi is having the right consistency of the mix. Too thick and it clumps up. Too thin and you take the layer that you put on before off.
I have tried the plexi finish. I think in some ways it is easier then the CA/Blo. I know there are not the fumes that CA gives off. The trick with plexi is having the right consistency of the mix. Too thick and it clumps up. Too thin and you take the layer that you put on before off.
I do a "CA for Dummies" finish. Once the surface of your wood is as smooth as a baby's bottom, put on way too much thick CA. Several coats. Too much won't hurt. Use accelerator to make it cure faster. Sand it down smooth and level. Buff it with plastic polish or a buffer. Done. You can make this more complicated, but you can't make it much simpler. And it works.
Steve Busey
Member
OK, Lou, I admit I'm a dummy, so let's step thru this...
>>Once the surface of your wood is as smooth as a baby's bottom
OK, I can do that...
>> put on way too much thick CA. Several coats.
Several coats in a row - using accelerant on each step? But no sanding yet? And I assume, applied quickly side to side until dry?
>>Sand it down smooth and level.
Again, is this after all the CA coats are applied, or between coats?
>>Buff it with plastic polish or a buffer. Done.
I can certainly do that!
>>You can make this more complicated,
Yes, I can. See above questions. ;^}
Thanks, Lou!
mick
Member
Steve , If Lou's method doesn't work for you try this:
Sand to 600 grit
Using a paper towel folded into about a 3/4" pad ( I use the select-a-size bounty and the half sheet folds to about a 3/4"by 5" pad) apply two or three coats of thin CA only making 2 to 3 passes. This way you can usually maintain a smooth coat. The thin dries almost immediately so you can repeat the coat as soon as one is done.
Switch to medium CA and apply 3 or 4 coats using the same method as the thin. You'll need to wait a little longer between coats but with the weather and humidity I'm having now I can normally get a finish done in less than 5 minutes.
If you keep your CA drops fairly small you'll usually be able to finish a pen with a single paper towel using both sides.
If you've put each coat on with as few passes as possible you'll never need to sand between coats. This takes some practice but you'll soon get the "feel" of it.
I usually wait until the next day to sand and buff but I have several mandrels and sets of bushings so this doesn't slow me too much.
After the finish has cured overnight I start at 400 grit (I used to start coarser but as you get used to applying the finish as smoothly as possible you can start at higher grits) and sand through 1000.
I then use Hut plastic polish and buff the blanks out.
I've tried several finishes but so far this one works out best for me....of course YMMV :wink:
Sand to 600 grit
Using a paper towel folded into about a 3/4" pad ( I use the select-a-size bounty and the half sheet folds to about a 3/4"by 5" pad) apply two or three coats of thin CA only making 2 to 3 passes. This way you can usually maintain a smooth coat. The thin dries almost immediately so you can repeat the coat as soon as one is done.
Switch to medium CA and apply 3 or 4 coats using the same method as the thin. You'll need to wait a little longer between coats but with the weather and humidity I'm having now I can normally get a finish done in less than 5 minutes.
If you keep your CA drops fairly small you'll usually be able to finish a pen with a single paper towel using both sides.
If you've put each coat on with as few passes as possible you'll never need to sand between coats. This takes some practice but you'll soon get the "feel" of it.
I usually wait until the next day to sand and buff but I have several mandrels and sets of bushings so this doesn't slow me too much.
After the finish has cured overnight I start at 400 grit (I used to start coarser but as you get used to applying the finish as smoothly as possible you can start at higher grits) and sand through 1000.
I then use Hut plastic polish and buff the blanks out.
I've tried several finishes but so far this one works out best for me....of course YMMV :wink:
See, Steve, you are already making it complicated!
Here's the expanded version. Put on a thick but not dripping coat of thick CA. Hit it with accelerant. Put on 2 or three or four more coats the same way. Let the whole thing off gas for an extra minute or two. Eagle use to call it "half a cigarette". Sand it until it is smooth and level. Buff it until it shines. Yes, there are more elegant methods, but this is not rocket science.
Here's the expanded version. Put on a thick but not dripping coat of thick CA. Hit it with accelerant. Put on 2 or three or four more coats the same way. Let the whole thing off gas for an extra minute or two. Eagle use to call it "half a cigarette". Sand it until it is smooth and level. Buff it until it shines. Yes, there are more elegant methods, but this is not rocket science.
gketell
Local Chapter Leader
I do a variation of Lou's. I start with two coats of thin CA to seal the wood then go on to the multiple coats of thick. Otherwise is exactly the same.
Detail on the sanding, for your first round of sanding after the CA is cured, use a sanding block until you get the finish level. That will make it so you can only sand the high spots and you can't possibly sand through the finish if you stop as soon as there are no high spots left (ie there is no shiny anywhere on the finish). Then, sand quickly with each progressive grit down to 400, 0000 steel wool, micro mesh 4000 and 6000, polish of choice.
Guaranteed good outcome!
GK
Detail on the sanding, for your first round of sanding after the CA is cured, use a sanding block until you get the finish level. That will make it so you can only sand the high spots and you can't possibly sand through the finish if you stop as soon as there are no high spots left (ie there is no shiny anywhere on the finish). Then, sand quickly with each progressive grit down to 400, 0000 steel wool, micro mesh 4000 and 6000, polish of choice.
Guaranteed good outcome!
GK
leehljp
Member Liaison
On the fumes - If you are having trouble with your eyes the day after, then you probably are more sensitive than most - i.e. have an allergy to CA.
There are three dangers to CA -
• the heat when curing :biggrin:
• the fumes
• the dust
I used CA for two years without a problem but within a 6 month period went from no noticeable allergy to severe flu symptoms within 12 hours after making a single pen. One day I had double vision. From the flu like symptoms - it lasts for 2 to 3 days. The fumes, by itself can trigger the reaction, and the CA sanding dust also can trigger it.
I like CA finishes, and do not want to give it up - especially after all the practice and time I put in mastering it.
Here is what I do to make a pen with CA and keep the fumes and dust at bay:
• Fan blowing across
• Dust Collector very close to the pen
• High quality filtered face mask that does not allow leaks
• Rubber gloves
• Damp towel to wipe hands and sleeves off after finishing a pen
I have some plexi/acetone mix that I am going to play with for a while until I can master it, but until then, I will use CA. Flyingmelon mentioned the too thin and too thick mix. I am there and need to find the ideal.
But, what Lou mentioned is exactly what I did on a large antler to make it round and then made a duck call out of it. I really like the flexibility in the many ways of using CA.
There are three dangers to CA -
• the heat when curing :biggrin:
• the fumes
• the dust
I used CA for two years without a problem but within a 6 month period went from no noticeable allergy to severe flu symptoms within 12 hours after making a single pen. One day I had double vision. From the flu like symptoms - it lasts for 2 to 3 days. The fumes, by itself can trigger the reaction, and the CA sanding dust also can trigger it.
I like CA finishes, and do not want to give it up - especially after all the practice and time I put in mastering it.
Here is what I do to make a pen with CA and keep the fumes and dust at bay:
• Fan blowing across
• Dust Collector very close to the pen
• High quality filtered face mask that does not allow leaks
• Rubber gloves
• Damp towel to wipe hands and sleeves off after finishing a pen
I have some plexi/acetone mix that I am going to play with for a while until I can master it, but until then, I will use CA. Flyingmelon mentioned the too thin and too thick mix. I am there and need to find the ideal.
But, what Lou mentioned is exactly what I did on a large antler to make it round and then made a duck call out of it. I really like the flexibility in the many ways of using CA.
Last edited:
NewLondon88
Local Chapter Leader
I've managed to come up with an application method that works for me.
I use these eye shadow applicators and put on a fairly thick layer of
Medium CA at low speed. It stays wet long enough to even out the layer,
and the little sponge-like pad works like a charm.
After a few coats, I've got a good, thick base to work with. And if I applied it
without a shaky hand, it doesn't take much to level it out with 400 grit and
a felt block. From there I sand with 600 and then hit the MicroMesh to 12,000
and a quick polish with Novus2.
I find these applicators in the makeup dept. at Walgreens, Rite-Aid, CVS etc.
They're usually under a buck for a pack of 20. Some of them are even double
ended.. Use it for one coat and then throw it away.
(They'll start melting and smoking )
I use these eye shadow applicators and put on a fairly thick layer of
Medium CA at low speed. It stays wet long enough to even out the layer,
and the little sponge-like pad works like a charm.
After a few coats, I've got a good, thick base to work with. And if I applied it
without a shaky hand, it doesn't take much to level it out with 400 grit and
a felt block. From there I sand with 600 and then hit the MicroMesh to 12,000
and a quick polish with Novus2.
I find these applicators in the makeup dept. at Walgreens, Rite-Aid, CVS etc.
They're usually under a buck for a pack of 20. Some of them are even double
ended.. Use it for one coat and then throw it away.
(They'll start melting and smoking )
Attachments
Thanks everyone. I made my first pen tonight. It came out pretty good . I messed up a time or two on the ca finish but sanded and tried again and finally got a finished product I am proud of. It is no where near perfect, but I am happy with the results. I will try to get some polish and try that next time. Thanks for all the help.
MobilMan
Member
Try just 2-3 drops at a time instead of 10.
Steve Busey
Member
Not that there's anything wrong with that... ;^}
Thanks Lou & Mick - will try that multilayer approach on my next pen.
woodtreker
Member
I use just about the same method as does Greg... Depending on the open grain of the wood sometimes I use shellac to seal the wood... I do that up to 180-220 grit depending on the wood... Then I use a clear CA If the pores are still open adn use a slurry to fill them or perhaps a BO/CA finish if pretty tight... I go pretty high in my grits, I just do not use steel wool but wet dry sandpaper or micro pads... I also put a shellac/wax friction polish finish on after the BO/CA finish... Then buff with a paper bag...
Love the finish it gives...
Love the finish it gives...
randyrls
Member
Musky; That is how I learned the CA finish. Turn a blank just to round and apply a finish. How good? Turn the finish off and try again. Eventually you will get a good technique down. I'm still not sure what the keys to a good CA finish are...
Hmmm.. I wonder if my wife would get me some of those applicators?
woodtreker
Member
BY THE WAY!! My eyes may tear but I always wear a certified respirator when turning and especially finishing to combat fumes, dust and to allow my lungs to stay young while I get older...