Finish for Bog Oak?

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Skewer

Skewer

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So I've pretty much stuck to CA so far in pen turning. I have a blank of Bog Oak in need of finish. I like the open pores in the wood, and i'm afraid between CA filling them in and it being pretty much black, they won't be visible afterwards. Thoughts? Suggestions? :confused:

Thanks,
Jeff
 
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I for one do not like ca on bog oak at all. I stripped it off one pen cause it just didn't feel right.

I've left the pores open before but I don't like that so much either.

My method for bog oak is to use a drop of pens olus between each grit with some dust left on to fill the pores a bit. After the last grit of paper. -usually. 800, no more finish. Then a coat if ren wax and it looks and feels great.
 

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I'm with Dan here. I've had no luck using CA on Bog Oak. Whether that was due to my technique or a characteristic of Bog Oak is moot. I use Pens Plus, although not between each grit as Dan does.
 
This pen is in the IAP Collection, and since it's in my basement, I've been able to look and hold it. :smile::smile::smile:

Ukranian Bog Oak.

I have no idea what Yaroslaw did as a finish process, but it has VERY WIDE OPEN grains, and it feels and looks awesome!!! (My opinion only). I suspect - no finish whatsoever.

A very rustic, "earthy" feel. Not to "mis-label" anything... but if feel very "Masculine." :biggrin:

http://www.penturners.org/photos/images/1/2_IAP-20.jpg
 
Dan, do those two pens have different finishes? Are they different 'types' of bog oak?
 
I just made my first bog oak pen this weekend. I'm a ca guy but i didn't want that for tge bog oak. I put 20 coats of WTF on and let it cure for a day, then finished it off on the buffing wheel. I got a nice shine but you can still see and feel the grain of the wood.
 
I just recently finished a custom pencil in Ukranian bog oak. This was made to match a custom pen that I did last year.

The pen I did was finished in multiple coats of thin and medium CA. Then it was lightly sanded back to a satin look. Client and I both wanted the protection of the CA, as well as the look and feel of the wood. It turned out not to bad, you could still see and feel a little grain. Client was happy, but I wasn't.

This time with the pencil, I only put on 3, very quick coats of thin CA, then wet sanded with the rust MM. I was much more pleased with the results. You could really still feel the grain of the wood and it had a nice satin finish. Client was also very happy.

This was a poor picture of the pencil with my cell phone. I'll see if I can find some better ones.
 

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mark james said:
This pen is in the IAP Collection, and since it's in my basement, I've been able to look and hold it. :smile::smile::smile:

Ukranian Bog Oak.

I have no idea what Yaroslaw did as a finish process, but it has VERY WIDE OPEN grains, and it feels and looks awesome!!! (My opinion only). I suspect - no finish whatsoever.

A very rustic, "earthy" feel. Not to "mis-label" anything... but if feel very "Masculine." :biggrin:

http://www.penturners.org/photos/images/1/2_IAP-20.jpg
Click to expand...

Who is the maker of that pen? Really want to talk to him. Thanks.
 
mark james said:
This pen is in the IAP Collection, and since it's in my basement, I've been able to look and hold it. :smile::smile::smile:

Ukranian Bog Oak.

I have no idea what Yaroslaw did as a finish process, but it has VERY WIDE OPEN grains, and it feels and looks awesome!!! (My opinion only). I suspect - no finish whatsoever.

A very rustic, "earthy" feel. Not to "mis-label" anything... but if feel very "Masculine." :biggrin:

http://www.penturners.org/photos/images/1/2_IAP-20.jpg
Click to expand...

Just wanted to post same pen:)))

My process for all BO pens (and I do BO much more than all woods and acrylics alltogether) is the same - sanding lengthwise with soft sanding pads to OPEN PORES as much as I can, (I use SIA, but 3M also caries those, much cheaper then micromesh) with 500 and 800 grit (sometimes going to 1000 and 1500) and than aply a generous coat (sometimes, as for this pen - just soak in for a while) a walnut oil. Any polymerizing oil will do, I think.
 
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