finish brands?

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awebb1

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Well i am just starting turning pens. I probably havent turned more than 20-30 pens. Right now im just useing a finish i bought from lee valley. I know i can get a fairly nice looking finish from it but im not to sure about durabilty. What are the prefered products that most of you use and would recomend, and how do u apply them?? Thanks for any help u can give.
 
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CA with boiled linseed oil.
How to apply: http://www.penturners.org/content/DonWardCA.pdf and there are several others who've written CA finish articles. Some searching and looking in the library and the archives of the Y! Penturners Group will dig up others. James Mann (fangar) has his CA finishing method posted in one of our forums but I could not find it. Searching will turn it up.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by awebb1
<br />Well i am just starting turning pens. I probably havent turned more than 20-30 pens. Right now im just useing a finish i bought from lee valley. I know i can get a fairly nice looking finish from it but im not to sure about durabilty. What are the prefered products that most of you use and would recomend, and how do u apply them?? Thanks for any help u can give.
 
Here's the Fangar method.



Thought I would post my CA finishing method for all those interested.

My method I use in a nut shell is as follows:

-1800 RPM-

Sand with 240, 320, 400 Grit papers.

Wipe down with denatured alcohol (DNA)

Apply a thin sealer coat of Thin CA with 400 grit paper.

New sheet of 400 grit smooth out.

Wipe down with DNA.

MM through 12000 (DNA as needed between coats to remove sanding debris. Usually between each three of the MM.)

Two coats of Myland's cellulose sanding sealer.

MM last four grits through 12000 again.

DNA

-Slow lathe to 500 Rpm. ( or Slowest setting).-

Apply two coats thin CA with Costco Paper Shop towel.
Air dry only betweencoats (NO ACCELERATOR).

Apply Two Coats of Thick CA, as smoothly as possible.
Air dry betweencoats. (If you do need to use a light application of
ACC, I wait at least 1 minute after each CA application, and only
use the Aerosol from a distance. I don't have any issues with cloudiness
or bubbles this way. The pump ACC does not work for me)

-Speed lathe back up to 1800 RPM.-

Sand with 320 Grit(Sometimes 240 grit if I went crazy) to remove any ridges, swirls etc.

Sand with 400 grit.

DNA

MM through 12000.

DNA

Buffing wheel with White Diamond only.

Hut Plastic Polish applied with paper shop towel.

TSW.

It seems like a ton of work, but really takes about 20 minutes from start to finish. Each grit of paper and MM is a very quick, light sand letting the papers do the work. There is not a ton of time on each grit, though I do make sure I have removed the sanding lines etc. I have worked on this method for quite a while, and it really works the best as far as results for me.

Some people will say: There are overlapping grits, overkill, overdone, why, what for, stepping back down in grit at times, unecessary, etc. but it works for me. Maybe more of a ritual like a baseball player that goes through his nervous supersticious dance prior to each pitch!
 
ok so this all seems pretty complicated and for right now i wanna keep it pretty basic and simple so am i ok with just a few coats of the turners polish i got from lee vally? and then maybe just put something else on top? thanks for help so far probably will try it some time later on.
 
Originally posted by awebb1
<br />ok so this all seems pretty complicated and for right now i wanna keep it pretty basic and simple so am i ok with just a few coats of the turners polish i got from lee vally? and then maybe just put something else on top? thanks for help so far probably will try it some time later on.

Once you use the CA/BLO method once...perhaps twice you'll see that it's not that complicated. Yes...it will take slightly longer....and I suppose there are a lot more steps. However, the finished product will speak for itself.

Like you, I've only turned a few pens. I was using a liquid polish and applying to the pen blank and then buffing. I repeated as needed. The difference between this process and the CA/BLO is like night and day.

Jerry
 
Durability now that's a good question.
How do you think the HUT products hold up compared to CA/BLO?
I'm going to pop this into a new thread.
 
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