finger nail polish stabilized oak

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low_48

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As Ricky used to say "Lucy, you got some splaining to do". I was talking to a supplier about stabilizing wood. He started talking about PMMA. It took some google work to see what that was, plexiglas. I googled liquid PMMA and finger nail polish and coatings started to show up. :) It was off the Dollar Tree to find some cheap finger nail polish. You get two bottles for a dollar and bought several. Cut the spalted oak to length, put in 4 bottles of polish and some acetone. Pulled as much vacuum that my veneering system would do and let sit overnight. Let it dry for 2 days out of the bottle and here's the result. Let's see, $2 of polish, $.50 of acetone, and 3 days. I think I'll box up the blanks and send them off Monday. Kinda fun though, SWMBO is still shaking her head![:I]

Rich


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The Bondo Wood hardener is cheaper,
16 ounces for $7.00 at LOwes.
better yet
Buy a Gallon of actetone for $10.00 and dissolve plexiglass in a small contailer with it,use this as a concentrated syrup, add a little more acetone.
It will knock the soles of the Dollar store stuff.
Not my idea it's in a thread about 8 months back.
Search stabilizaton.
There are a lot of other ideas there.
 
I either cut my blanks and pre-drill them or just drill a 3/16" hole in the center of a 5" long blank and put it in a vacuum using thinned polyurethane. I get the thinner and polyurethane by the gallon and I can get a lot of blanks into a gallon pickle jar. I have 2 duplicate set ups so I can keep them under vacuum for days and days if I desire. I do not wish to knock anyone’s method of stabilizing as each one seems to give the desired effect. I’m just passing on something that is very successful for me. I am looking for a dye that will work with the polyurethane so that I could experiment with some color.

I’m also going to try methods posted by others because theirs might just be easier, faster, or more durable than mine. (Not really my method at all but a slight modification of the method posted by Lee Biggers in the articles section of this site)


<edit> one little trick I learned was that if I release the vacuum and redraw it 2 or 3 times during my stabilazation process I seem to get full penetration of the blank. Maybe it's bunk, but that is my observation.
 
About the revaccuming thing Tom I found that to be the case also,add me to the non bunkers.
 
Very nice Rich . I don't have a method of applying a vacuum to the parts so I've got some blanks sitting in some poly right now being held down by a porcupine board and some weight and just hope that it will work .
 
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