Fine scratches

[MaxPen93]

This could be a problem with lots of variables...not sure of the proper question...

What do you guys do for the fine scratches maybe in the ca finish?

A) Do you cover with more glue and resand the sequence again?
B) Does a ca polish get these out?
C) Do the fine scratches imply bad sand paper or did I skip too many grits in my sand finish...

This is a hit or miss issue right now, so will just have to keep working to find my repeatable root cause to this issue...

the best description would be a "foggy" finish and obviously you can see the "scratches" in the light....

any learnings or experiences with "fine scraches in the ca finish" , would be glad to read about....:embarrassed:

Thanks.......

 

[Monty]

What is your SOP. Do you use micro mesh?
I always sand my acrylics and CA finished pens to 400 or 600, MM wet through 12000 finishing with a plastic polish like Meguier's anti swirl.

 

[mrcook4570]

Cross sand with the lathe off before switching grits. This will eliminate circular sanding rings. Never decrease grit size by more than 50% (e.g. 100 followed by 150 followed by 225(220), etc).

Quality paper definitely helps.

 

[Charlie]

All I know about finishing is, most finish don`t hide any flaws , they make them stand out more. Sanding just takes time, some woods you can start with 80 grit and then go through the grits and everything is fine.

Some other woods if you start with 80 grit it seems the sanding marks will never sand out. One that comes to mind is black walnut. I think as you do more woods and have more experence a person learns what is best for differant woods. Some times I don`t think it`s any thing you have done, it`s just the way it is.

Charlie

 

[jttheclockman]

Learn to use the skew and you will just about eliminate all scratches. Go from turning with a skew to finish. If you det scratches in the CA means you did not sand enough with previous MM pad. Also always wipe after each grit size. You can always buff the scratches out. Good luck.

 

[ed4copies]

All I know about finishing is, most finish don`t hide any flaws , they make them stand out more. Sanding just takes time, some woods you can start with 80 grit and then go through the grits and everything is fine.

Some other woods if you start with 80 grit it seems the sanding marks will never sand out. One that comes to mind is black walnut. I think as you do more woods and have more experence a person learns what is best for differant woods. Some times I don`t think it`s any thing you have done, it`s just the way it is.

Charlie

Hey Charlie!!!

I hope you are exaggerating!!

At the worst, you should be starting to sand at 200ish. 80 grit is rocks!! You will make lines that will be REAL hard to get out.

Your final pass with a sharp tool will leave a surface that should be able to go to about 400, then up from there.

No offense meant, just trying to save you some work!!
Ed

 

[ed4copies]

Scratches in your CA? First thing I would do is wait longer between applying the CA and starting to sand.

I let my coats build and then let the blanks sit until the next evening. Sand with 400 to even off the pits and hills, then 600, then 1000, then buff with white diamond.

Don't have a buffer? Novus 2 will give very similar results.

 

[The Wood Bucket]

If you can see scratches, you can't hide them with more finish. Your best bet is to sand up through the grits of MM until scratches are gone. That may be back to bare wood. Then apply your finish again. I also agree with Ed, Wait longer after applying CA before sanding. Just because the surface feels dry doesn't mean it is dry completely.

 

[leehljp]

Charlie,

There are three directions as to causes, as seen in the responses. On occasion, scratches in the wood shows through and a relative new turner will describe it as scratches in the finish. Some woods have natural lines in them and there have been questions over the years as to how to get the "lines" out, - without realizing that the lines are natural. Paddauk is one, and some burls and a few others.

And sometimes the scratches are is in the CA itself. There have been occasions when scratches are made in CA and then more layers of CA are added on top of that. While the new CA will fill the gaps, the scratches eventually show through.

Then there is the scratches on the surface. This is simply not sanding with fine enough SP, or having started with too rough SP such as 80 or 100.


Pens are not in the same category as fine furniture, even if made by wood. There are lots of things that happen or are done with fine furniture in finishes that does not work well with the microcosm world of pens and finishes. Beautiful straight grain and contrasting grains of such wood will look absolutely beautiful as a table or picture frame, but look pure blah on a pen. A single knot may distract in the arm of a Maloof chair but will look throughly beautiful in the pen.

For these reasons, pens need a different mindset forfinishing than normal flat wood finishes and even from bowls and large spindles. Sanding is in this category also. Don't use the same grits as with flat work or large bowls, use higher grits and take the time to get it right.

One item mentioned often that is totally wrong with finishing is this: "Wood needs a slightly rough finish to allow the finish to hold to it." FALSE. CA and even paint will stick on glass. GLASS! So why does paint have to be scraped off of windows with razor blades if they need something to hold on to? Sanding wood smooth with 600 to 1000 grit will not prevent CA and other finishes from sticking. Oily wood and green wood WILL, but not because of the smoothness of the wood itself.

A caveat: people who have years of experience will know how to judge the correct use of SP and can use the low grits and know when to back off and use higher. I rarely argue with one who has developed his own technique that works for him (or her) and has for years.

 

[DSurette]

For me, Abranet works much better than sandpaper.

 

[bradh]

If you want to improve your sanding, I recommend reading Russ Fairfield's 5 rules of sanding:
Russ's Corner: A WoodCentral Archive

 

[MaxPen93]

Thanks guys will try some of things mentioned here...

 

[Charlie]

I was just bring up going through the grits and differant woods you start at differant points and that all woods do not finish the same. And with experance doing differant woods a person will know what to do with that type of wood, Maybe I didn`t explain my self enought.

Charlie