Final finishing, alternates

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jwm57

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Apr 15, 2017
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Englishtown, NJ, USA
I'm a new member, but have looked at previous threads before joining you.

I am not a pen turner as a vocation, but I do turn pens in batches now and then.

The topic is finishing, and it applies to more than pens. I have been a wood turner for many years - mainly green wood bowls and hollow forms from branches set to turn as face grain. A bit of spindle work on pens and other "projects" like the ice cream scoops my granddaughters love to give away.

I try to make my own finishes, but haven't done so for pens as I haven't specialized there. I do love making spinning tops as a relaxation, and that brings me to the finishes. For my tops I use light colored wood (el cheapo Loews poplar 2" square lengths - just make sure you don't see the color difference in the two halves they are made from -bad balance if you can see the difference). I paint them with spirals, then overlay with a home made beeswax paste.

Don't know why I went through that, probably just to say I can make my own finishes. I've a jar of 4 lb cut, and one of 2lb cut, beeswax. For my bowls and other forms I used Waterlox, and still do for some - but for most I use my own concoctions of oils and spirits and shellacs and varnishes. I ask no advice from the Penturners on that.

I want a finish that will stand up to fingers, and that is the nature of the pen (and also the nice egg or ball for meditators <g>)

OK, that was the setup from an old fart about to attend his 60th college reunion (we will all be over 80). Now to the products.

I have been sanding my pens to a reasonable level then using the EEE-Ultra Shine from Ubeat in Australia (as sold by PSI, and others, in the US). I got onto this track when I saw a post (Google) by a bowl turner in England touting Yorkshire grit. That post raised a bunch of posting on my "home site" for wood turning, the AAW forums (American Assoc. of Woodturners).

I'm no asking you pen people about the EEE - I know what it is and I've enough left for the time being - and I know how to make an equivalent using the Tripoli (Rottenstone to you Aussies - and no disrespect there, the eldest of my mother's sisters married an Aussie in about 1890 and moved there, my mother never met her eldest English sister, but during WWII I carried on a pen pal conversation with Aunt Meg's grandson, Keith. Keith had a couple of years on me, and a generation removed. I think we lost him some time ago, but I never knew Aunt Meg's married name so I can't try to track him down

Wow, it is the Irish in me, perhaps - but the Irish in me came from Canada. How do we finish a piece over a finish like the EEE-Ultra Shine - which is basically a fine abrasive with a bit of oils and waxes and, perhaps, a bit of a varnish or shellac?

I've been using Shellawax, but my little bucket went hard when I went back to it. The pen I made, expecting to use the Shellawax, is now overlayed with a lathe turned in beeswax paste. Shellawax is too damned expensive, in my opinion, for what it is. I'm willing to stick with my EEE-Ultra, I''ve got enough left.

Earlier threads here suggest the Woodturner's Finish from Quality Finishes, and also some others. I seen a finish sold on Amazon (as a microchystal and wax) called Rennaisence Finish.

I'm confused. I understand my finishes for my larger pieces that aren't generally handled - I am at a total loss as to what economical finish I can use as the final finish for something that will be handled. As pens are always handled I ask the pen turners what I should buy, or make, for my final finish - on the assumption that I'll use an equivalent of the EEE grit fiinsh first.
 
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wood-of-1kind

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Welcome to IAP. AS far as a finish that will stand up to good wear and tear handling on pen, you can use a CA finish (super glue) that many here prefer.
It is a very cost effective finish since a pen does not require much "material".
 
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jttheclockman

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NJ, USA.
Jon, welcome to the forum from one NJ guy to another. Grew up going to the English Town market every Saturday. That has changed over the years.

Not sure we can answer your question but I will give you my opinion. You are sort of all over the place with finishes. Will stick to the pens. The finish materials you are using such as Shellawax and EEE are waxes. They look good when first applied but do not stand up to the rigors of use such as a pen sees. You mention and this is what I gather you are looking for a new finish that is relatively cheap. Well the go to finish by most here is a CA finish. There is a bit of a learning curve to it. Sorry but you would have to do a search here for methods and types used. There are also many good videos on the net that can explain the process. It is too long for me to explain and if you ask 100 pen turners how they use it you will get 200 answers. Trial and error will come into play. Then there is the fumes that can be bothersome associated with CA. You can buy odorless or use methods that direct the fumes away from you as you use. Again very lengthy in detail.

The other finish you mention is Penturners Plus. Many people use this and they have had success with it. Then there is a method that uses melted acrylic (plexiglass) as a finish. Then there is a new product on the market that some have tried and it is called Solarez which is a UV activated finish. Again a learning curve but seems to work well but expensive. Then there is the film finishes that work very well such as polyurethane. There is a person here that has written an article which can be found in the library here about his dipping method when using this. Works well and is very hard finish. Then there is the tried and true method of lacquer. There are various types of lacquer and each has its advantages but again a lot of info to write to get you informed.

As you see I have not been much help but there is so much info to tll you it is impossible to do it in one thread. You need to do some searching around the site and come back with specific questions. One question I can answer with certainty is whatever finish you choose to replace on your projects, you need to strip off before adding anything else because they all have wax in them and wax and a finish do not mix well. Good luck. Others will chime in for sure and maybe put some light on this for you.
 

magpens

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Welcome to IAP, Jon !!!! . If you introduce yourself in the Introductions forum you could be eligible for a prize ... it is worth a try !

Interesting discussion of your experience with finishes ... always a bit of a challenge.
 

jwm57

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Apr 15, 2017
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Location
Englishtown, NJ, USA
Good old Englishtown market, haven't been there in years even though I live there. Thanks for the advice, I splurged on the Renaissance Wax and tried it. I think I'll look into using the CA glue, the RW has little gloss - but I'll give it a few more experiments on practice pieces.

Best, Jon
 

jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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Location
NJ, USA.
Good old Englishtown market, haven't been there in years even though I live there. Thanks for the advice, I splurged on the Renaissance Wax and tried it. I think I'll look into using the CA glue, the RW has little gloss - but I'll give it a few more experiments on practice pieces.

Best, Jon


Jon that wax is museum grade wax made for keeping fingerprints to a minimum. It is not made to enhance the finish of a top coat. That wax is good to use if taking photos of your pens so the fingerprints do not show. Will do nothing for a top coat.
 
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