Fasteners for this table base?

[southernclay]

Steel Table Workbench Frame | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

The instructions say use fasteners of choice. I will most likely use dry but not kiln dried wood. Rockler chat said use wood screws but I can't imagine that wouldn't be risky with any wood movement.

Has anyone made a table with one of these bases and if so what did you use?

Thanks! Great price BTW for these, very solid and sturdy and with free shipping over $35 it's hard to beat. I'll most likely order a couple more just for down the road.

 

[Robert Taylor]

I used 1/4"x1" lag bolts on mine. I used2"x6" with 1"x4" cleats underneath for the top. It is not very sturdy for a workbench as is out of the box as there is nothing to prevent racking(side to side) movement. I stiffened it up by adding a piece of 3/4" plywood on the back.(between the legs) I also added a pice of 3/4" plywood for a shelf over the cross bar. My final thoughts are my $30 workbench went to $100 very quickly. I rccomend that you pass on this great deal and get the Harbor Freight bench and beef it up. It also has nothing to prevent racking. just my take or $.02 Bob

 

[D.Oliver]

Are you going to glue all the pieces together so its a single laminated top or are you going to leave them as individual boards. If you make it a laminated top you can put the screws in middle of the short ends. This won't restrict the wood movement across the grain. Personally I've never been too concerned with wood movement. My bench is made from laminated southern yellow pine and screwed to the base at multiple points. Of course my base it wood also which helps, and I'm guessing that there is far less humidity in SD than there is in GA so I probably don't deal with as much movement as you do, either.

 

[ttpenman]

Couldn't you just drill larger holes in the steel or elongate them? That would allow for some wood movement. BTW -- I ordered one also. Probably something else I don't really need.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

 

[southernclay]

I used 1/4"x1" lag bolts on mine. I used2"x6" with 1"x4" cleats underneath for the top. It is not very sturdy for a workbench as is out of the box as there is nothing to prevent racking(side to side) movement. I stiffened it up by adding a piece of 3/4" plywood on the back.(between the legs) I also added a pice of 3/4" plywood for a shelf over the cross bar. My final thoughts are my $30 workbench went to $100 very quickly. I rccomend that you pass on this great deal and get the Harbor Freight bench and beef it up. It also has nothing to prevent racking. just my take or $.02 Bob

Good points! I am thinking of more of a coffee table project, I know they say great for worktable but I haven't ever needed anything of this height for a workbench. I'm supposed to get a couple of extra workbenches from my father in law soon but if not the HF one will be the ticket I think.

Are you going to glue all the pieces together so its a single laminated top or are you going to leave them as individual boards. If you make it a laminated top you can put the screws in middle of the short ends. This won't restrict the wood movement across the grain. Personally I've never been too concerned with wood movement. My bench is made from laminated southern yellow pine and screwed to the base at multiple points. Of course my base it wood also which helps, and I'm guessing that there is far less humidity in SD than there is in GA so I probably don't deal with as much movement as you do, either.

We have way too much humidity, I'd be happy to send some your way! :biggrin:
The top will be laminated. I don't have a jointer so cruising craigslist for one now. I've got some 8/4 rough cut walnut, cherry and ambrosia maple that I'll be using. It's not a current need just got it for a skill building project. I'm likely overthinking the humidity issue as all of the reviews are fairly positive but no one mentioned how they fastened so assuming just screwing would work fine.

Couldn't you just drill larger holes in the steel or elongate them? That would allow for some wood movement. BTW -- I ordered one also. Probably something else I don't really need.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

This may work too, a larger hole and a washer may be the ticket. It was not a need for me and I got 2, thinking about adding another as I have to order a few small things from there. Hard to pass up deals! For the free shipping hard to pass up. The package takes up very little room so I think it will be fine to have one or two for a one day project leftover.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

You should just make your coffee table base out of wood. You'll take more pride in it.

However, the other individual steel legs rockler sells are pretty cool.

 

[southernclay]

The hairpin ones?

I don't know about taking more pride but it would be a cool project to take on. I recently did a cedar planter table for a friend and turned out great so sure I could make it but I also like the metal/wood combo look. I'd prefer to make the base myself but I don't weld.....yet : )

 

[Phillip Kelley]

Magnetic....

Depending on the thickness of your top, I would use #10 Hex head screws, probably 1" long. A 5/16 magnetic nut setter bit for your cordless drill will run them right in with no problem. I don't think wood expansion will be a problem since it sounds like it will be inside in a controlled environment... P.S. the pick shows self drilling type screws but you can buy them without that feature at any hardware store...

 

[southernclay]

Hey Phillip, thanks, about 8/4 most likely if I use what I have in mind. I think 1" would work. I've got those driver bits already too. Thanks again, I think when I get to the project I'll be more confident with the wood movement.