Faceplate for sanding disc

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Mike

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I just received my Rick Herrell offset blank squaring jig. What is the best faceplate for the sanding disc? Seems you would not want holes all over it? The ones I am finding all have screw holes for attaching bowl blanks, etc. Or does this not matter?
 
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Does not matter because you will attach some sort of backer on the face plate. How you do this can be with screws or with doublesided tape.
As you can see I used a piece of acrylic with double sided tape years ago. I have since switched to a piece of metal. Whatever you use it has to be true in that the thickness needs to be exact. Thus metals. Others may use wood. Then I use sticky back sandpaper for my sanding needs and just move the sand paper around to get full use of entire piece. Waste not want not as they say.

By the way this little project was for another challenge I had with another member here about thinning a quarter. I showed him I could do it 2 different ways. Turning and also cutting down the middle on my scrollsaw.



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I use a piece of 1/2" plywood cut round coated with several coats of WOP so I can change the sanding discs as needed. Got 6" self stick sanding discs off Amazon and the system seems to work just fine. I do attach the plywood to the face plate with screws. Same piece of wood being used for about 5 years now without any trouble.
 
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I believe I am overthinking this. I have a faceplate to attach a piece of plywood or MDF to. I will try that and see how it works.

Thanks all,
Mike
 
I also use MDF, with a melamine laminate surface. MDF is pretty darn flat. I cut it round on my table saw (using a jig) and I screwed it to my faceplate, and use Pressure Sensitive 80 grit sanding discs. works perfectly.
 
I would not use plywood or any wood that has deep grains in it. You want as flat a surface as you can get. The reason is when you push the tiny little round tube against the disc with the sandpaper you want to sand evenly and not have the tube protrude into a grain line or divot in wood. Also I suggest to stay away from hook and loop type sandpaper setup because again when you exert pressure against the sandpaper and if it is hook and loop it will indent into paper and round over the edges or even sand slight on the outside of the edges. Again these are my opinions and your milage may vary.
 
I must disagree and use hook and loop. It am gentle when I approach the sandpaper with the blank and rotate the blank. If you listen you will hear the brass just begin to be exposed. I've measured the lengths of the tubes after flushing up. They are essentially the same length as the tubes as provided in the kit.

I can go from old sanding disc to new in seconds. My old method with peel and stick was a nightmare that I'll not repeat.

My kits assemble perfectly and show accurate junctions.
 
I follow the same method as Mark (mmayo.) I have been using hook and loop and not had any issues. I do not apply a lot pf pressure against the sand paper and can get it flush against the tube in no time at all.
 
I'm a big fan of the hook & loop as well and have never head any issues with that. I use it on a steel disc sanding plate from my Shopsmith. As Mark mentioned, you will hear a specific change in the sound once you hit the brass, I can best describe it as "shushhhhh" or a scraping sound.
 
I use mdf with velcro. On the back is a ring that fit in the chuck. I use it for sanding. But not for my pens. I don't have the jig from Rick Herrell.
It not for sale here in europe.
 
sorcerertd said:
Sounds like I need to try the hook and loop, but currently I use a piece of MDF/formica from a sink cutout with PSA discs
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If what you have works I suggest stick with it because all those saying that hook and loop has no effect I would be careful. Maybe they are turners that like to round over the ends of the blanks for a better transition to components then that would be a good case for it. I am just saying look into it.
 
jttheclockman said:
If what you have works I suggest stick with it because all those saying that hook and loop has no effect I would be careful. Maybe they are turners that like to round over the ends of the blanks for a better transition to components then that would be a good case for it. I am just saying look into it.
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My ends are NOT rounded over and never will be using hook and loop. It would be impossible to sell poorly flushed up pen tubes. Here are some examples of squared tubes using 150 grit before turning with hook and loop and 220 grit after CA. In both cases there is a clear and unmistakable square end.

Do what you wish, but information from "jttheclockman" is certainly not gospel, just what he chooses to do and how he feels about this. I'm not gospel either, but sell many, many excellent pens without any rounding. See for yourself in the photos. Do you see rounding? I don't.
 

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jttheclockman said:
If what you have works I suggest stick with it because all those saying that hook and loop has no effect I would be careful. Maybe they are turners that like to round over the ends of the blanks for a better transition to components then that would be a good case for it. I am just saying look into it.
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My guess is that it would depend somewhat upon technique. Not sure how hard some might press against the disc. Also, I'm not sure it would be enough for most people to notice (maybe even me?). In any case I have enough PSA to last me a while, so there won't be any changes in the near future. The formica cleans up pretty easily.
 
sorcerertd said:
My guess is that it would depend somewhat upon technique. Not sure how hard some might press against the disc. Also, I'm not sure it would be enough for most people to notice (maybe even me?). In any case I have enough PSA to last me a while, so there won't be any changes in the near future. The formica cleans up pretty easily.
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Believe me I am probably the worst pen maker on this site so take my words with a grain of salt. Many times I forget to post this is just my opinion as the escape clause. But just like each and everyone who posts ideas it is what has worked for them. Many times I try to explain my explanation and sometimes in may not come across well. But I do post alot here and this bothers many people here. But If I reach just ONE new person with an idea I think I did what I want to when I come here and partake as much as I do. Anything weather a method I use or technique is my way of doing things and if it helps someone then use it if not move on. It has been proven time and time again there is many many ways of doing the same things we do. Experimenting with the ways mentioned will help you find that way that works well for you. There is no right and wrong way, just different ways. I hope this clears up my thoughts.

You are right it is a matter of pressure but again my opinion and no it is not gospel as been pointed out above, What you want is a flat surface that is 90 degrees to the tube. Plain and simple. If you have a wobble or play in the tube as you hold it and put light pressure against hook and loop sandpaper on a disc, what is to say that surface is now flat and 90 degrees. If you press against a hard surface that is ensured. I use hook and loop for many of my hand held sanders and the ease of changing pads is great and that ever so slight round over is great to break the sharp edges of a box top or whatever. But remember it is a larger surface you are sanding then so bending the hooks and loops is tougher to do. But with a pen blank it is so much easier because you are concentrating in one small area. I also should note if using hook and loop pads to get the better grade because they do have a tendency to fly off a spinning tool if cheap quality. No you probably will not notice and as I also mentioned above some people may like that ever so slight round edge to break that sharp edge. Maybe it even helps with CA from not cracking on ends. I have no proof of this just throwing it out there.


This is all I am going to say about this and again MY OPINION ONLY!! Do whatever works for you. Good luck and happy turning.
 
jttheclockman said:
Believe me I am probably the worst pen maker on this site
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I definitely do not believe that.

jttheclockman said:
This is all I am going to say about this and again MY OPINION ONLY!! Do whatever works for you.
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I do appreciate your opinion, and all the differing ones here, as it gives us options and ideas to make into our own way. Please keep telling us what works for you. I absolutory agree with "whatever works for you" as applied to anyone. As for me, I am always looking for ways or techniques to try, be it newer, better, easier, whatever. I still feel like a newby and hope I never stop learning.
 
Forgot about this thread. I ended up cutting a 5" disc from 1/2" MDF and screwing it to the face plate that came with my Jet lathe. I used the stick on paper and so far it has worked without issue. I have only turned a few pens but am going to turn 10 or 12 in the next week or so. Will update when I think about it again.

Mike
 
Mike said:
Forgot about this thread. I ended up cutting a 5" disc from 1/2" MDF and screwing it to the face plate that came with my Jet lathe. I used the stick on paper and so far it has worked without issue. I have only turned a few pens but am going to turn 10 or 12 in the next week or so. Will update when I think about it again.

Mike
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I used some birch ply I had on hand. The first time I removed a disk it was a bit of a challenge. I did a quick smoothing sanding and applied a CA finish. Hoping that makes it a little easier the next time around.
 
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