Experiment, sort of a success..

[amtechrs]

Hello all, here is my latest tangent in using my laser to make blank 'boxes'. I wanted something a little more random and to change up my previous designs. I think this sort of works, but needs some tweaks. Since I can't really hide the box joints and transitions from one surface to another, I think I'll try using alternating species on each panel. Just two, but go back and forth. What do you think? Also adding pics of the blank before turning. Ugly mess... Sorry for so many pics. Oh, and the 'squiggle' is one continuous line.

 

[Humongous]

Now I see how you're doing this, very clever. Do you glue a sacrificial piece in the middle to help with drilling?

 

[amtechrs]

Now I see how you're doing this, very clever. Do you glue a sacrificial piece in the middle to help with drilling?

Hi Ken! No, actually leave it hollow! It's been working out pretty good, for the most part. The tiny hole I put in the center of the end pieces helps the brad-point bit locate pretty well. However, I have poured epoxy in the center to help with drilling on my first efforts. It would be necessary if the tube/drill diameter didn't quite reach the inside corners of the box, though. For this blank, I used .170" thick stock. It's an upper blank for a Majestic kit, so pretty large diameter.

 

[TDahl]

I think the box joint add an interesting effect as long as the seams are flush (it appears they are.) I also think darker wood will show the seams less. Well done!

 

[Darios]

Yep. hang a lampshade on it. Alternating the wood makes the transition a highlight, not a 'flaw'.

 

[jttheclockman]

I did something similar in a way not long ago but not with a laser and the seems are always tough to disguise but you live with it. Thinking about it i actually did a couple segmented blanks that are built off 4 sides. When turned the look changes which yours does not because you stay within the dimensions of each side. It works for your designs. Not a fan of the squiggly lines.

 

[amtechrs]

I did something similar in a way not long ago but not with a laser and the seems are always tough to disguise but you live with it. Thinking about it i actually did a couple segmented blanks that are built off 4 sides. When turned the look changes which yours does not because you stay within the dimensions of each side. It works for your designs. Not a fan of the squiggly lines.

Very cool, John!

Yes, I have to adjust offsets depending on the OD of the blank, and where it will intersect the box joints and whatnot... A bit of work!

 

[mark james]

Very interesting blank and a great build - I like it a lot. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Woodchipper]

Intriguing segments.

 

[d_bondi]

I don't have a laser and haven't used one, so this is likely a dumb question. Can the laser cut at an angle? I mean tilt to cut a miter? I ask because the box joints are showing, this isn't necessarily a bad thing, but they show because you are contrasting long grain to end grain, right? If you cut them as miters it would all be long grain.

 

[amtechrs]

I don't have a laser and haven't used one, so this is likely a dumb question. Can the laser cut at an angle? I mean tilt to cut a miter? I ask because the box joints are showing, this isn't necessarily a bad thing, but they show because you are contrasting long grain to end grain, right? If you cut them as miters it would all be long grain.

Hi David, not a dumb question at all. None of the laser machines that I've seen can cut an an angle. Since the beam is actually produced in a tube in the back of the machine, and bounced off of 3 mirrors to finally aim straight down, it would be pretty difficult. There might be one out there that can, though! I actually make the cuts so that the grain runs lengthwise, so both edges are technically edge grain. Here is a picture of some cut box sections of a different set of blanks.

 

[RGABEL]

Hi David, not a dumb question at all. None of the laser machines that I've seen can cut an an angle. Since the beam is actually produced in a tube in the back of the machine, and bounced off of 3 mirrors to finally aim straight down, it would be pretty difficult. There might be one out there that can, though! I actually make the cuts so that the grain runs lengthwise, so both edges are technically edge grain. Here is a picture of some cut box sections of a different set of blanks.

 

[RGABEL]

There are ways to do this, but re-aligning to get the straight cuts for the inlays would be very challenging.

 

[Lew]

Another great pen! I agree with you that using contrasting woods like John did with his black and white might make it better but you'll just have to try it. I'm sure I'm not alone but I like the squiggly line. Keep 'em coming!

 

[Gary Beasley]

I would imagine the easiest way to cut at an angle is to set the piece up on a precise wedge. Machinists have several ways to cut precise angles on milling machines, you should be able to find videos online demonstrating it. Keith Ruckers videos come to mind.

 

[amtechrs]

Another great pen! I agree with you that using contrasting woods like John did with his black and white might make it better but you'll just have to try it. I'm sure I'm not alone but I like the squiggly line. Keep 'em coming!

Thanks Lew! Stay tuned, I've got an alternating panel (Koa and Canarywood) with purpleheart squiggle in the works! All I have is another Majestic kit, so it'll go for that. Upper and lower box/blanks cut and glued last night. I'll clean it up, drill and epoxy the tubes this evening.

 

[Woodchipper]

Not a dumb question as I learned something about lasers.
Over the years, I have received some dumb answers.

 

[GaryMGg]

Really well done!