Epoxy Finishes

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jttheclockman

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Ok lets start another pen finishing subject. We all talk about using CA as a go to finish for pens as I do this on all wood pens. But lets take it another step further and ask about another type of finish that is used by pool cue makers as well as fishing pole makers. That is an epoxy finish. Now the only time I have finished pens with epoxy is when I have clear casted or even color casted resins. What I would like to discuss and hear from those people who use clear epoxy finishes as just that finishes. If you use for pens or for other projects I would like to hear from you. Please do not tell us about friction polishes or anything like that. This is not the thread for that. i have become interested in this type finish but do not know much about it. I would like to hear what type of epoxy is used and how is it applied. If you would care to share your methods we can get this printed for the library so many others can learn about.

I have heard some people seal the woods with epoxy as well as add more coats for finishing but the final coat they use coats of thin CA. Not sure the reasons unless CA polishes better than epoxy would be my only guess.

If you have detailed photos of your method would surely be nice or if you have used videos from other sources to learn how to do it too would be great if you would share these. We all know CA is a hard finish but can crack easily if mishandled. I believe epoxy finishes is more durable. maybe you can share some do's and dont's you found over the years and or other tips that can be shared along with the methods. Maybe share your setup and speed of lathe and little details that sometimes get left out when explaining.

I would first like to thank anyone chimming in on this topic before it even gets underway.
 
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I was introduced to the "Massey finish" by a wood bow & arrow maker and have used it a couple of times on wooden pen barrels with success. The major drawback is that it's slow (compared to CA), but the results have been excellent.

Search for "massey finish wood finish" in Google and you'll get a pretty good description and links to sites with Q & A. My quick summary:

1) using a jar that can be sealed, mix standard (not 5 minute) epoxy per directions
2) add acetone, just a small amount at a time and stir till the lumps are gone, aiming for a mix around 1 part epoxy in 4 parts acetone
3) put the lid on the jar to seal it

To use it - tear up some lint-free cloth into 1" x 3" strips. Pour some of the dilute mix onto a saucer (cap the jar immediately), hold the strip by the ends and dip the middle of it into the liquid. If you are holding the barrel on a mandrel, use non-stick bushings. With the lathe running as slow as possible (under 200 rpm is best) drag the wet cloth from one end to the other in a single pass. If the cloth dries up before you get to the end of the barrel, dip it in the liquid again before trying to go over again from the beginning all the way to the end of the barrel.

Never go backwards - the acetone flashes off in seconds and you'll be pulling the cloth through tacky epoxy, not a good look.

Put one dab of the mix on a piece of scrap wood, that is you "is the epoxy set?" test. Never touch the barrel to see if it has set.

When the epoxy sets, you can apply another coat (you can change direction if you want - but still, the objective is a single sweeping pass along the entire length of the barrel). And wait till it's set.

Repeat till you have about 5 coats on the barrel. Wait till it's dried. Wait some more till it has fully cured - about 24 hours after the last coat went on.

Sand very lightly with unused 320 grit or 400 grit, just to get rid of any dust nibs. Wipe with a clean cloth. Now apply another 5 coats using the same method. Wait a couple of days after the last coat before going at it with Zona/Timite paper or Micromesh or your preferred polishing system.
 
I took a seminar class from Barry Gross some time ago where he discussed UV curing epoxy resin. It's a bit expensive to use but it provides a solid epoxy finish to pens and other objects pretty easily. I bought a UV light used my manicurists to harden it instead of the provided little light that a few of the kits come with. Barry's video - UV Resin

Kevin
 
Interesting. Never considered epoxy but it seems that it is time consuming compared to several coats of CA.
It definetly is a longer finishing process but anyone who has played with a pool cue knows the feel and look of a well finished cue. The abuse a cue takes is far greater than a pen. These multi thousand dollar cues are worthy of the best finish available. I believe my top pens deserve the same. Someone just brought up the UV light thing. Now I remember this topic coming up here once before and I will do some research here on this. To me time in this hobby is nonexistant. I will never be one to sell pens for a living so time may play a role. I try to offer those unique pens and items that are just not done by many. This is a hobby for me.

I also remember there was a fad that was going around years ago to melt plexiglass in acetone and apply that as a finish. Do not hear much about that these days either. If you want speed then nothing beats friction polish finishes. CA is the standard today for pens and thus the reason that certain CA glues ( Glu Boost) were reworked to accomindate the pen turning community.
 
I forgot to include this link to a post from 6 years ago - I'd made the pen several years before, so it's probably 10+ years old now and still looking great.

 
I forgot to include this link to a post from 6 years ago - I'd made the pen several years before, so it's probably 10+ years old now and still looking great.

I assume that was finished with your epoxy method?
 
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