Enduro over CA?

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samuel07

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Can I use Enduro over a blank that has been hardened with thin CA and then MM'ed to 12000? Seems to me that will save you a little time by not having to wait for the sanding sealer to cure.

Just a thought.





Of course every time I think it costs someone money...[^][^][^]
 
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No problem with Enduro over CA glue.

My only question is that - since you have already used the CA to fill the wood, why not go the rest of the way with a couple more coats of glue, and you are done.
 
Thanks Russ / DCbluesman
Maybe you can help me. The reason why I asked this question is that have really been struggling with the second and third coats of CA and BLO. the first coat goes on nice and smooth and I lightly hit it with the 600 grit. the problem seems to start after I have applied the second coat of CA and then the BLO I can't seem to get it as smooth as the first coat. By the time I'm all said and done I end up sanding through the finish in places to get everything smooth again. I can only assume that I'm using to much CA because if i understand you correctly I can't be using to much BLO. I just recieved my new order of CA from Mannie so maybe that will help. I got the trail size of enduro thinking it might be easier but there is a learning curve with it also.
 
Funny you should say that. I have noticed that the 3rd and 4th coats aren't as smoothe as the first two.

Whether I use Bounty or Viva, I get a little "drag" that requires sanding after the 3rd and 4th coats. The first two coats are nice and smoothe and require no sanding. I use a light coat of CA followed by a heavy coat of BLO. Both applied with light pressure.
Are we missing something?
 
Originally posted by Galanw
<br />Funny you should say that. I have noticed that the 3rd and 4th coats aren't as smoothe as the first two.

Whether I use Bounty or Viva, I get a little "drag" that requires sanding after the 3rd and 4th coats. The first two coats are nice and smoothe and require no sanding. I use a light coat of CA followed by a heavy coat of BLO. Both applied with light pressure.
Are we missing something?

Heavy is a relative term, but it sounds to me like you are using too much CA. Don Ward demonstrated his CA method in Provo. He used three drops of BLO on the Bounty towel, then ran a small bead of thin set CA on the wood while it was turning on the lathe and rubbed it quickly back and forth until the CA had set. He got a really smooth finish, so smooth there was no need to use micromesh. He just polished with white diamond and applied a thin coat of RWax and was done. Using too much CA seems like it could cause ridges in the finish as all the CA won't be smoothed out before it gets hard.

Just a thought and something you might want to consider. Incidentally, I use a different variation in my CA method that works for me, but I know Don's method produced a beautiful finish for him as others who saw his demo can verify.

Bob A
 
I use the Russ method, as I recall. A little medium CA applied to the Bounty and lightly swiped back and forth, followed by a generous blob of BLO, sliding lightly back and forth until hard.

I never liked applying CA directly to the spinning blank, because I always got more than I wanted.

But I will try even less CA, as you suggested, and then the thinner stuff. Do you need more coats with thinner stuff?
 
And I forgot to add:

The mystery seems to be:
Why would the technique that works well for the first two coats, become a problem on the last two?
 
Originally posted by Galanw
<br />And I forgot to add:

The mystery seems to be:
Why would the technique that works well for the first two coats, become a problem on the last two?

I was having the same problems. Here are my conclusions:

Most likley because the first two coats are causing ripples, just not noticable ones. Also, you may be getting a cured outer shell of CA, but not allowing it to cure all the way through before adding the additional coats. Once you get enough CA built up it causes the entire finish to collapse and gum/ball up.

What I do now is apply a coat of CA and allow it to cure for at least 30 min. before attempting the next coat. I always lightly touch it to make sure it is not still sticky. I always let the blank cure overnight before I start the final sanding/polishing process.
 
Yikes! 2 hours for 4 coats? Then an overnight wait?

It sounds like waiting for fresh baked cookies to cool completely before eating. I don't know anyone with that discipline.

The pro's say that with a little practice, I should be able to do 4 coats in 4 minutes. Now it takes me about 20 minutes. I don't get ripples, but a slight mottling pattern on the last 2 coats that sand off easily with 600 grit and then polishes nicely with MM and white diamond.
 
I don't make pens to see how fast I can crank them out. FWIW my hook is the pursuit of perfection. I have been known to completly finish a barrel only to find a white speck suspended in it.[:(] I sanded the finish all the way down and re-finished it.
 
I feel your pain. I behave the same way with bowls, but not pens (which I make while waiting 4 months for the bowls to dry).

It's a form of dementia that doesn't respond to reason (accordng to SWMBO). [:D]
 
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