End threaded fountain pen

[Valleyboy]

I find this style of pen, where the cap threads onto the end of the section, is useful when working with thin raw materials. A lot of the vintage cellulose materials come in 13mm diameter or less (and is often pre-drilled). Making a more traditional pen, where the cap fully envelopes the section and screws onto the barrel, would result in quite a slim pen (or very thin cap walls). So I opt for this instead. This style is by no means unique to me but it is my preferred option in these cases.

In this example the material is vintage black cellulose acetate which starts out looking like a battered old bicycle inner tube but polishes up beautifully. The blue section is made using original Aqua so Bologna acrylic from the now defunct Omas factory. I also use this on the end of the barrel to seal the pen. My sterling silver finial coin performs the same function at the end of the cap.

I use both M10 and m11 threads on the section and the pen is around 13mm in diameter with just a hint of a waist to the section. It has a Bock no6 nib.

Cheers
Ash

 

[anthonyd]

Very classy and beautiful! piel1961 on instagram often uses this style .

 

[Curly]

If I found that in my mailbox I would be smiling for a month. Beautiful.

 

[Psychmike22]

Great, now I have a whole new thing to learn how to do. This is my first time seeing that design. I'm going to spend weeks trying this now!

 

[magpens]

I really like it ! !

Clever design idea ! . Very nicely executed !

 

[Valleyboy]

If I found that in my mailbox I would be smiling for a month. Beautiful.

Thanks Pete!

 

[Valleyboy]

I really like it ! !

Clever design idea ! . Very nicely executed !

Thanks Mal. Good to see you back.

 

[Valleyboy]

Great, now I have a whole new thing to learn how to do. This is my first time seeing that design. I'm going to spend weeks trying this now!

Ha yes, there's always something else isn't there?
This isn't too hard and once you get your dimensions right for the section it's pretty straightforward after that. Good luck!

 

[Penultimate]

Absolutely beautiful.
I made my first kitless then way too. Safety fountain pens from the late 1800, (I think that was the timing) were made this way.

 

[showcaser]

I find this style of pen, where the cap threads onto the end of the section, is useful when working with thin raw materials. A lot of the vintage cellulose materials come in 13mm diameter or less (and is often pre-drilled). Making a more traditional pen, where the cap fully envelopes the section and screws onto the barrel, would result in quite a slim pen (or very thin cap walls). So I opt for this instead. This style is by no means unique to me but it is my preferred option in these cases.

In this example the material is vintage black cellulose acetate which starts out looking like a battered old bicycle inner tube but polishes up beautifully. The blue section is made using original Aqua so Bologna acrylic from the now defunct Omas factory. I also use this on the end of the barrel to seal the pen. My sterling silver finial coin performs the same function at the end of the cap.

I use both M10 and m11 threads on the section and the pen is around 13mm in diameter with just a hint of a waist to the section. It has a Bock no6 nib.

Cheers
Ash

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Amazing work Ash , did you have to use left handed threads on the body side to avoid unscrewing both at the same time?

 

[Valleyboy]

Amazing work Ash , did you have to use left handed threads on the body side to avoid unscrewing both at the same time?

Great question. I did consider it but I decided against because I could imagine somebody forgetting and either totally over tightening when thinking they're unscrewing or even breaking the tenon when doing so. So I have a two-fold approach with these. First I under-tap the barrel by about 1/5th of a turn so the last bit of the rotation of the section is a little stiffer than usual (but not too stiff to prevent it registering properly against the barrel). After repeated use this may eventually loosen somewhat so I also tell the owner to get into the habit of holding the section when unscrewing the cap to avoid it coming undone. They're generally ok with that.
Cheers
Ash

 

[showcaser]

Great question. I did consider it but I decided against because I could imagine somebody forgetting and either totally over tightening when thinking they're unscrewing or even breaking the tenon when doing so. So I have a two-fold approach with these. First I under-tap the barrel by about 1/5th of a turn so the last bit of the rotation of the section is a little stiffer than usual (but not too stiff to prevent it registering properly against the barrel). After repeated use this may eventually loosen somewhat so I also tell the owner to get into the habit of holding the section when unscrewing the cap to avoid it coming undone. They're generally ok with that.
Cheers
Ash

Makes sense. Just holding the body when refilling ink and the section when removing the cap. Kind of hard making people do something different than they have always done.
I can't tell you how many times people have pulled the cap of a screw on cap with a couple of times breaking the pen in the process.
Thanks for the info
V/R Patrick

 

[Valleyboy]

Absolutely beautiful.
I made my first kitless then way too. Safety fountain pens from the late 1800, (I think that was the timing) were made this way.

Yes, spot on. Safety pens were made like this and I reckon you're pretty close with the era too.

 

[JamesC]

I find this style of pen, where the cap threads onto the end of the section, is useful when working with thin raw materials. A lot of the vintage cellulose materials come in 13mm diameter or less (and is often pre-drilled). Making a more traditional pen, where the cap fully envelopes the section and screws onto the barrel, would result in quite a slim pen (or very thin cap walls). So I opt for this instead. This style is by no means unique to me but it is my preferred option in these cases.

In this example the material is vintage black cellulose acetate which starts out looking like a battered old bicycle inner tube but polishes up beautifully. The blue section is made using original Aqua so Bologna acrylic from the now defunct Omas factory. I also use this on the end of the barrel to seal the pen. My sterling silver finial coin performs the same function at the end of the cap.

I use both M10 and m11 threads on the section and the pen is around 13mm in diameter with just a hint of a waist to the section. It has a Bock no6 nib.

Cheers
Ash

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Yep, something else to mess with. I really like this Ash.
Jim