EEE-Ultra shine

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fafow

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Dec 27, 2007
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159
Location
Los Angeles, CA, USA.
I was wondering if any one had any thoughts on sanding a pen through all the levels of micromesh, then using teh EEE-Ultra shine. The next day sand that down a bit (not all the way), then apply a number of coats of a water-based high gloss polyurethane finish. Would I be better off for adhesion if I put a water-based sanding sealer between the EEE and the finish?
 
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turned-for-good is 100% correct.

EEE uses tripoli powder (tripoli sounds like triple-E = EEE heh heh... get it?)


Tripoli powder is as coarse as driveway gravel when compared to 12,000 micromesh.



If you want something to follow it with, here is what I consider to be the best polishing liquid out there. It will put a shine on your finish like nothing you've ever seen. That's specifically what it's made for (polishing the urethane finish on cars).

The 16 oz size will polish A TON OF PENS--- use about as much as you use of toothpaste for brushing your teeth. Buff at the highest speed you have, and dribble a few drops of water as a bit of a lube/coolant if desired.


http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...amilyName=3M+Finesse-It+II+Finishing+Material
00002686.jpg
 
EEE before and after CA

I have used EEE after BLO/CA finish and on the infrequent times when the finish is a little "rough" the EEE smooths it out.

Recently I saw small scatches on the wood (not stabilized) blank after sanding through 2000. I then used EEE and the scratches were gone. I continued with alcohol wipe and the BLO/CA coats. After sitting overnight I applied EEE and Renaissance wax. Nice results.

I have continued to use EEE after sanding and again following BLO/CA.


Larry
 
Folks, you can use what you want but if you put your EEE finish under a microscope you will not see the smoothness you get by going all the way to 12000 of MM or with other sub 1mu (micron) finishes and then adding a "finish" wax or polish on top of that.

I use a similar product here in Japan to what RedfishSC noted above. My "next to last" finish/polish contains .2micron abrasives ( 2/10 of a micron). I also use paint polish that contains no abrasives but is a wax/lanolin base that uses the applicator (paper towel/suede/cloth) as the abrasive. Great shines.

I know that with the use of EEE, you were able to get a great shine as maybe compared to what you were expecting, but IMO, there are higher levels of shine available without much more effort - than what EEE alone gives. Even the makers of EEE would probably agree:

On EEE's web site:

"EEE-Ultra Shine is not a finish for raw wood.

When EEE is used on a lathe over raw timber it produces a brilliant shine. Do not be fooled into leaving the wood like this. It is the timber shining from abrading and burnishing. There is no finish on the wood. Because of this the timber will dull in a short period of time from moisture in the air, steam, humidity, etc. This is because the timber is still raw.

Please use a finish over the top preferably one of the Shellawaxes, which are 100% compatible with the EEE. If using another finish over the EEE do a test piece first as the waxes in the EEE might stop the final finish from adhering to the timber."


1. Note that it is an abrasive;
2. EEE is NOT a "finish".
3. Note that they recommend using a finish (wax) over the EEE.

http://www.ubeaut.com.au/eee.htm

While the above is in direct reference to application over raw wood, application to use over CA and other finishes can be drawn similarly.
 
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OK, going to continue the thread.

Has anyone had a problem with EEE cream discoloring wood? It appears to darken the wood (by alot), leaves some splotches and comes up an ugly grey-brown tint.

Not for nuttin', but its ruined a few pens!
 
The blochiness is probably caused by porosity in the wood, where the blank is not anded to the same standard as the rest, or on the end grain, where the face of the tubes are more exposed
 
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