Ebony inlay smudging maple

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Mvadney

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May 24, 2019
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So I turned a tiger maple pen with ebony inlay and ended up with smudge marks on the maple. Any ideas on preventing this? Used new sandpaper when I sanded the blanks.
 
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Mvadney

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May 24, 2019
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That's a good idea. Hence the reason I asked this forum. Time to go back to the lathe.
 

mark james

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I'll agree with John. I also use sanding sealer (Mylands, and others). But the purpose and need is the same - seal the pores. I also carefully inspect any open pore blanks - which I do like at times. If there is any dust, I'll use a shop vac to suck the particles out. If you use compressed air to try to blow out the particles, you may just push some further in. I have used both techniques, but have recently been more keen on the shop vac to pull the particles out. Also, when I apply a finish, I turn off all dust collection, overhead particle collectors, and miscellaneous machines that may stir up dust, blow dust, direct dust, etc... I don't want an air flow to be directed onto my lathe if that is where I'm applying my finish. A better solution would be to apply the finish in a "clean chamber" where no dust from other projects can get into your finishing process.

Have fun!
 

Mvadney

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May 24, 2019
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I did wipe down the blank with alcohol trying to remove the dust. Shopvac would do a better job. I tried the air with some epoxy blanks I tried and did notice it blew the dust into those as well.
 

leehljp

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If you are experienced with sharpening very well, a scraper (or skew) will prevent the very thing that everyone else uses other liquids and air to get out. It is simple.

I use segmented woods that contrast often - Bloodwood and Holly, Holly and ebony, and others. Sanding only smears the colors. Air does reasonable and so does alcohol wipe, but those do not compare with not having any smearing to begin with.

Very Sharp scrapers (and skews) will render the multi wood colors Very smooth without the need for sanding and therefore prevent the smearing and succeeding necessary steps to clean it:
 

Mvadney

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May 24, 2019
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I definitely have to admit my sharpening is good for knives but still working on the turning tools. My gouge is good but the skewer needs work. Makes sense. Less torn fibers, no chance of bleeding of the wood. Any good tips for sharpening?
 

leehljp

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Any good tips for sharpening?
CBN wheels for HSS.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/cbn-wheel-question-s-147589/

IF using carbide inserts, search for the top notch ones; While I don't personally know, but from reading here, there is a difference in the general run of the mill inserts and some that a few swear by. I don't know which are the top notch but maybe some one will chime in.

One other item is needed: a little trial and error with experience. Light touch on scraping with a sharp edge will smooth everything and prevent smearing.
 

bsshog40

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I definitely had problems with sharpening my tools. I bought recommended wheels for my grinder, even bought a variable grinder and I just didn't have what it took to get a good sharpen. I broke down and bought me a Sorby. A little expensive yes, but these were my results first time out of using it. Never been happier. I keep it setup so I can just go over and do a quick sharpen when I'm turning now.
 

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mark james

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I definitely had problems with sharpening my tools. I bought recommended wheels for my grinder, even bought a variable grinder and I just didn't have what it took to get a good sharpen. I broke down and bought me a Sorby. A little expensive yes, but these were my results first time out of using it. Never been happier. I keep it setup so I can just go over and do a quick sharpen when I'm turning now.

I love my carbides, but I also love my HSS's. I use each about the same depending on the sun and the moon.
 

jttheclockman

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I have said this many many many times here and will continue to for I am a proponent of the use of the skew. A well sharpened skew is the answer to many of these problems when it comes to segmenting different woods or materials. There is no way I would have been able to use sanding sealers or anything without smearing the colors of woods because of the pores. This pen is an example I mostly show but have used other woods that are just as bad. This is done with Gabon Ebony and Holly. It was finished with a skew and to final shape and no sanding. I sprayed a quick coat of clear shellac to seal and then went to the CA finish. I did notice there was a slight bit of color change with the Holly but being I bleached it before I did any turning or building of the blank it was pure white and this gave me a chance to keep that white look. Always test your scraps before doing any finishing.
 

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howsitwork

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I m not in your league guys but I do always seal before sanding if using high contrast woods like those. I also HONE my skews especially for finishing cuts as the finish you get on the work can logically only ever be as good as the surface finish on the tool doing the cutting. Try it , it really does make a difference.

Awesome work by the way 🙇‍♂️
 

leehljp

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I m not in your league guys but I do always seal before sanding if using high contrast woods like those. I also HONE my skews especially for finishing cuts as the finish you get on the work can logically only ever be as good as the surface finish on the tool doing the cutting. Try it , it really does make a difference.

Awesome work by the way 🙇‍♂️

Good Sharpening is critical, but HONING is what makes the Final difference. Honing doesn't take long but makes a huge difference. Thanks for mentioning this aspect!
 

Woodchipper

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On the serious side, I sharpen on a Rikon low speed grinder with the Wolverine attachments. I have found that after initial sharpening, I can step aside and hit the edge with a DMT diamond file. Seems to work. Don't have the leather honing stuff.
 
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