Ebonite kit less

[eteska]

2nd kit less. First with threads. M10x0.8 triple thread for the section. M13x0.8 triple threads for the cap. Schmidt #5 nib unit and Schmidt converter. Turned on my wood lathe. Sanded to 3k grit and polished with plastix.

Comments and suggestions appreciated as I gear up to make my next one. Thanks for looking

 

[duncsuss]

Nice.

It looks like the converter is hardly pushed into the section at all. I aim to get nearly all of the 0.250" part supported by the section, not a tight fit but not loose either. I feel it reduces the chances of the converter falling off the feed (that might be self-delusion, of course).

 

[eteska]

Nice.

It looks like the converter is hardly pushed into the section at all. I aim to get nearly all of the 0.250" part supported by the section, not a tight fit but not loose either. I feel it reduces the chances of the converter falling off the feed (that might be self-delusion, of course).

Thank you for the tip. My section was about 3/8 longer in the start but I misse measured for the cap and didn't allow for the threads on the body. My save was to shorten the section so the nib no longer bottomed out in the cap.
Next time I shall measure more carefully..

 

[Jim15]

Awesome work.

 

[Pen Zen]

Got to love ebonite, especially when it put to such good use.

 

[eteska]

Got to love ebonite, especially when it put to such good use.

This was only my second pen made with ebonite, but it is fun to work with. I ordered a few more rods. No I just need life to slow down a bit so I can get after them

 

[duncsuss]

My save was to shorten the section so the nib no longer bottomed out in the cap. Next time I shall measure more carefully..

We have to do what we have to do

I found it got much easier when I put clips on the cap. I use the same tap & die for the finial/cap threads as I use for the section/barrel threads (in my case, M9x0.75 single lead - I see no reason to use expensive triple-lead tools for something that can be just as effective when made with lower cost tools.)

It's easier because the cap is open ended, so I can see exactly where the tip of the nib reaches - and if necessary, hollow out the finial tenon to allow the tip to project beyond the cap cylinder.