dust collection system questions

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The Penguin

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didn't want to jump in on the the other thread - so making my own...

I have this dust collector: G1028Z2 1-1/2 HP Dust Collector

it's assembled and placed in the shed behind immediately behind my garage. I also have a chip collecting can. To get it into my garage, I'd have to cut a hole in the wall from inside to outside, to run the hose through and then run power to the shed for the collector. Not a big deal to run power as I need to rewire the whole garage.

but - I have attic space above the garage I can place the dust collector - and cut a hole in the floor/ceiling and then run my main dust collection line along the ceiling.

thoughts/suggestion?

I'm also looking at air cleaners, and think I have narrowed down to these 2:

50-875

or:

JET Tools - AFS-1000B, 1000 CFM Air Filtration System, 3-Speed, with Remote Control

my garage is 22x29x8 with the back third is where most of the woodworking is done. Both units have similar specs, but the Delta is about $90 cheaper

again - thoughts/suggestions?
 
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Wingdoctor

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I see you are in Texas so maybe you could have the DC in another building when the weather is warm. As the collector pulls the chips and air from your shop, the DC exhausts it into the shed. To do this you have to have a way to let the air being pulled from the shop return to the shop. If you do not have a direct air path the DC will find a way to get the air it needs. That way may be through your furnace or water heater exhaust vents, and you do not want that. It would be pulling the exhaust fumes, CO for instance back into your shop. If it is possible to have a vent to the outside to pull the air in without drastically lowering the shop temperature it will work. If the shed is really airtight and insulated, not likely, you could duct the air from the shed back into the shop under pressure from the DC outlet. I've not checked the CFM of the DC but ever 500 cfm of air is a lot of air to pull out of your shop regardless of circumstances. If you can keep the DC in the shop so that the intake and exhaust of air is in the same structure all of these problems do not exist. I have an Oneida 3 1/2 hp Cyclone in my basement shop and the noise is not a problem upstairs or down. I hope this helps.
 
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Monty

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...but - I have attic space above the garage I can place the dust collector - and cut a hole in the floor/ceiling and then run my main dust collection line along the ceiling.
Do you want to have to get in the attic to empty the DC bag when it's 100* outside? Not me.
Your basic shop setup sounds a lot like mine. Come by sometime and take a look at mine for some ideas.
 

Steve Busey

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The thought that crosses my mind about the attic is whether your system has enough suction to pull all the dust/wood chips vertically high enough.
 

Robert111

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I see you are in Texas so maybe you could have the DC in another building when the weather is warm. As the collector pulls the chips and air from your shop, the DC exhausts it into the shed. To do this you have to have a way to let the air being pulled from the shop return to the shop. If you do not have a direct air path the DC will find a way to get the air it needs. That way may be through your furnace or water heater exhaust vents, and you do not want that. It would be pulling the exhaust fumes, CO for instance back into your shop. If it is possible to have a vent to the outside to pull the air in without drastically lowering the shop temperature it will work. If the shed is really airtight and insulated, not likely, you could duct the air from the shed back into the shop under pressure from the DC outlet. I've not checked the CFM of the DC but ever 500 cfm of air is a lot of air to pull out of your shop regardless of circumstances. If you can keep the DC in the shop so that the intake and exhaust of air is in the same structure all of these problems do not exist. I have an Oneida 3 1/2 hp Cyclone in my basement shop and the noise is not a problem upstairs or down. I hope this helps.

Pulling air out of the shop through the DC may be a good idea. It will guarantee air exchange and tend to rid the shop of CA and other fumes. Seems worth the cost of some heat.
 

TerryDowning

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Positioning the DC outside of the work area is generally preferred n terms of health/safety and cleanliness oft he shop. I believe it's required by OSHA for a professional setup. Bruce brings up valid points though regarding "sucking up" of other things that you may want to keep in the shop (Notably Heating and Air conditioning) It may be advisable to filter the return from the shed if you have climate control.
 

sumunabeech

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Lyndon, KS
I see you are in Texas so maybe you could have the DC in another building when the weather is warm. As the collector pulls the chips and air from your shop, the DC exhausts it into the shed. To do this you have to have a way to let the air being pulled from the shop return to the shop. If you do not have a direct air path the DC will find a way to get the air it needs. That way may be through your furnace or water heater exhaust vents, and you do not want that. It would be pulling the exhaust fumes, CO for instance back into your shop. If it is possible to have a vent to the outside to pull the air in without drastically lowering the shop temperature it will work. If the shed is really airtight and insulated, not likely, you could duct the air from the shed back into the shop under pressure from the DC outlet. I've not checked the CFM of the DC but ever 500 cfm of air is a lot of air to pull out of your shop regardless of circumstances. If you can keep the DC in the shop so that the intake and exhaust of air is in the same structure all of these problems do not exist. I have an Oneida 3 1/2 hp Cyclone in my basement shop and the noise is not a problem upstairs or down. I hope this helps.

Everything said here is correct.
Is the garage a conditioned area? I mean heated and cooled?
Is it connected to the house?
Is the attic connected (open) to the rest of the home's attic?
Is the attic vented?
Exposed wiring? (dust/fire)

Building science is what I do to support my pen habit...and eat. There are many ways to make your home unsafe by messing with airflow in and out. By unsafe, I mean unhealthy (moldy and dusty) and also downright dangerous. Be very careful with any modifications. pm me if you have questions...please
 

The Penguin

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I see you are in Texas so maybe you could have the DC in another building when the weather is warm. As the collector pulls the chips and air from your shop, the DC exhausts it into the shed. To do this you have to have a way to let the air being pulled from the shop return to the shop. If you do not have a direct air path the DC will find a way to get the air it needs. That way may be through your furnace or water heater exhaust vents, and you do not want that. It would be pulling the exhaust fumes, CO for instance back into your shop. If it is possible to have a vent to the outside to pull the air in without drastically lowering the shop temperature it will work. If the shed is really airtight and insulated, not likely, you could duct the air from the shed back into the shop under pressure from the DC outlet. I've not checked the CFM of the DC but ever 500 cfm of air is a lot of air to pull out of your shop regardless of circumstances. If you can keep the DC in the shop so that the intake and exhaust of air is in the same structure all of these problems do not exist. I have an Oneida 3 1/2 hp Cyclone in my basement shop and the noise is not a problem upstairs or down. I hope this helps.

Everything said here is correct.
Is the garage a conditioned area? I mean heated and cooled?
Is it connected to the house?
Is the attic connected (open) to the rest of the home's attic?
Is the attic vented?
Exposed wiring? (dust/fire)

Building science is what I do to support my pen habit...and eat. There are many ways to make your home unsafe by messing with airflow in and out. By unsafe, I mean unhealthy (moldy and dusty) and also downright dangerous. Be very careful with any modifications. pm me if you have questions...please
not presently, but it is in the future plans to install a window unit through the back wall to provide AC. I think the AC I purchased does not have heat though.

connected via a breezeway - the attic is open (right now) to the rest of the house. it is a small triangular opening...about 4' wide, 2' tall. There is a metal "plate" that generally covers that opening that is taken down for the moment because I was working on wiring. My main electric service connection (meter & main breaker) is at the back corner of the garage. From there - it feeds the main panel in the house. plan is to drop a sub-panel off the meter into the garage for all the garage wiring.

yes, the garage has both soffit and ridge vents. had the garage roof re-decked with Cool Ply when my roof was replaced a couple years ago.

wiring is exposed for now - intent is to move all wiring up to the attic space, place outlets about every 6' along walls and in the ceiling for lighting, insulate ceiling & walls, and install drywall.

I'm trying to make it as comfortable a workspace as I can.
 

sumunabeech

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The breezeway helps. If you can close and seal the attic between the house and garage you should be okay. By seal I mean airtight. As long as the wiring is insulated and the connections in boxes you shouldn't have a problem with that.
Sorry, I work with BAD housing stock and it wigs me out a little when people start talking about changing the airflow in a house.
You may still have problems with very fine dust being deposited in the attic.
 

ctubbs

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Murray, Kentucky
The breezeway helps. If you can close and seal the attic between the house and garage you should be okay. By seal I mean airtight. As long as the wiring is insulated and the connections in boxes you shouldn't have a problem with that.
Sorry, I work with BAD housing stock and it wigs me out a little when people start talking about changing the airflow in a house.
You may still have problems with very fine dust being deposited in the attic.

I have major reservations about blowing dust anywhere in crawl spaces. Being a retired volunteer Fireman and current Master Electrician, It does not matter if the wiring is in conduit and boxes or not, that fine dust, the kind that loves to explode, will get inside the boxes unless they are Class I, Div II, commonly called 'Explosion Proof' and no home I know of has that system, then you are opening yourself up to a flash fire possibility. To get an idea of this, build a small fire safely outside and take a small container of fines to the fire, toss them into the flames allowing a good mix of air and dust. Be sure to stand back from the fire when you do this or say goodby to the hair on your arms and face. It is very similar to throwing raw gasoline into a fire. This is why I have used the Wynn filter on my DC and built a fines filter system for air cleaning for my shop. I have crawled through too many homes and recovered too many bodies that never found their way out. Flying dust is dangerous in so many ways. Let us all be careful, not scared, just thoughtful and careful.
Charles
 

PTsideshow

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Macomb County Michigan
Have to second the topic of dust explosions, it is dust particles suspended in the air in an enclosed location. And it only takes the correct fuel to air ratio and a source of ignition like the spark in the light switch. The net is full of coal, sawdust, flour dust explosions. Not something to mess with besides after the fact when the insurance adjuster/claims person comes out, and looks it will be. "What were you THINKING!" :eek:
:clown:
 

widows son

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Jan 1, 2011
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round rock, tx
I have a shop in the garage and will be moving my air compressor and DC into a "lean to" shed attached to the outside of the back wall of the garage. The shed is 4' deep and 8' wide with a concrete slab floor. This puts the noise and dust outside. Vents provide plenty of circulation in the shed. I agree about getting anywhere close to an attic in the Texas summer, no way.
 
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