Drilling a duck call?

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Carole in VA

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What do you guys use to drill a 3/4" hole in a 4" long blank? Forstner is not long enough, spade is barely long enough but tends to flex.
 
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Actually, I've purchased the blanks I've used predrilled for the calls I've done---but, will likely be drilling some in the future. Some time ago I purchased a set of brad point bits that Grizzly was closing out and the set has a 3/4 inch bit that is almost 6 inches long. I think someone sells longer Forstner bits and also I think someone sells an extension for them. It looks like Lee Valley (from my 2004 catalog) has a brad point bit that would be long enough.
 
Originally posted by Tom McMillan
<br />Actually, I've purchased the blanks I've used predrilled for the calls I've done---but, will likely be drilling some in the future. Some time ago I purchased a set of brad point bits that Grizzly was closing out and the set has a 3/4 inch bit that is almost 6 inches long. I think someone sells longer Forstner bits and also I think someone sells an extension for them. It looks like Lee Valley (from my 2004 catalog) has a brad point bit that would be long enough.
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Thanks, Tom. I'll take a look at LV. Seems like every new project I want to try I have to order something else! I would hate to see how much I have spent in shipping over the past year because I needed some little thing that I couldn't get out here in the sticks. [:(]
 
Looking at some of my catalogs---Beall Tool Co. has some longer brad point bits too---but, look a little spendy and Woodcraft has a set of 4 brad points that are longer--still spendy --- not sure if they sell them individually or not?? Maybe you can check their website.
 
I just checked Harbor Freight a little---they have a 3 piece set called Pathfinder bit set and look similar to a Forstner bit---says "drill curved holes"---but, would think they'd work ok for straight holes too anyway the Item number is 91087-2VGA and the set is $9.99. Doesn't state the length, but they do look pretty long.
 
I just got some calls in today with my order, why didn't you mention that earlier before I ordered. So I guess I have to find some long 3/4 bits.
 
I still am sure they sell an extension for Forstner's that may be the best way to go---seems like someone got one at Home Depot or Lowes---but not sure?? Anyone know??? I do see Grizzly has a drill bit extender to extend a bit by 5 1/2 inches that fits all 3/8 and stepped 3/8 round shank drill bits that is $8.95 (maybe it would work for you).---Sorry to make so many posts on this (not really---getting closer to being a HAC er).
 
I haven't really looked at the kits yet, but I had no clue of the bag of parts that come with one. I thought it was an erector set at first glance. Going to have to do a search on this before I start. I got a rabbit, squirel, deer & ducky .
 
I bought some forstner bit extenders some time back from a catalog but don't remember which, several of them have the extenders. I have used up to three of them at a time to dril up to 1 1/4" holes 14" deep. Although it's not easy it does work. With just one extender and only 4" it should be a piece of cake. My only advice is to back out often to clear chips, it gets real hot in 4" of packed chips. The other problem is most drill presses will not go 4" so you have to drill until you get full extension, then raise the table with the drill still in the blank. Make sure you have the blank firmly clamped when you start the drill press again, voice of experience!
 
Problem solved. Went and got a better quality spade bit ( had a really cheap one), clamped everything down well and went slowly. Worked fine.
 
Carole, I'm glad your spade bit works OK. I make a lot of calls and have settled on a high quality, long, brad point bit. As you pointed out, with the spade bit you must go very slowly. The Forstner style generates way-way too much heat and doesn't clear chips. Drilling end-grain into hardwoods just naturally generates a lot of heat. My brad point is blackened from heat even though I back out frequently to clear chips. I find that clamping the blank is an absolute necessity, I use a machinists vice and slow speeds. For what it's worth, I have lousy luck with laminated woods, like Dymondwood. They usually blow from heat build up. I could go slower, but spending twenty minutes at the dp for one hole goes beyond my personal patience tolerance level. Even then, too often, at the last 1/8th inch they still sometimes blow. Good luck.





Originally posted by Carole in VA
<br />Problem solved. Went and got a better quality spade bit ( had a really cheap one), clamped everything down well and went slowly. Worked fine.
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Being a dedicated cheapskate, [:p] I rankle at the idea of paying more money than necessary [:(!] for good turning wood. I have a dandy supply of sugar berry that I picked up from a tree trimming dump site. My son cut down a tree on his property that is probably mulberry (I haven't seen it yet), taking truck and trailer to get whole tree. It is called the fine art of scrounging. A good drill bit will make a lot of holes in free wood.




Originally posted by KKingery
<br />I usually go with the pre-drilled also. It just seems easier for now.
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