Drill Press Problems

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Chasper

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Its a Delta Shopmaster and the problem is with the chuck. One of the three jaws in the chuck has dropped down and is out of alignment with the other two. Is there a fix or do I need a new chuck?
Also, I can't get the chuck off the shaft. It is a tapered shaft and the chuck won't budge from the shaft. When the press was new I had trouble getting the chuck to stay attached to the shaft so I put a few drops of water on it and pressed it up in place, the idea is that it would rust together and quit falling off, it seems like it worked too well. I've tried prying it off using the biggest pry bar I could fit into the space; didn't work. Any other ideas about how to remove the chuck?
 
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My guess is you need to replace the chuck but I don't know all that much about them. taper should have two sides. one taper goes into the drill press and a shorter one fits into the chuck. you want to get the whole thing out of the press then you can use a rod or dowel through the center of the chuck jaws to drive the taper from the chuck. If there is not a hole to fit a rod or pin to drive the taper out of the press, the hole should be in the quill abve where the end of the taper would be. I have had great luck in getting my chuck out of my press by chucking something unbalanced in it then running it (Slow Speed) at least my press does not like to hold the chuck if it wiggles.
 
Been there . . .

Been there . . . save yourself some grief . . . Go to ENCO and buy a Jacobs Chuck and arbor . . .

I have a Delta 20" Drill Press . . . The chuck that cam with it was not precision but it performed well.

How does your chuck mount, threaded, morse taper, etc? And what size?

Steve
 
If and when you get a new chuck. If it will not stay on you can use a punch and hammer on the taper of the chuck. Striking the side of the taper will make an indention and will swell around it. Saw this done on a harmomnic balancer on an engine, been doing it when needed ever since.
On getting it off.
You might try hitting the side of the press where it joins the chuck while prying with bar or try to heat the part that the chuck fits into. I really hate to tell you something that might turn out bad so be carefull. Hitting with a hammer could break something and heating could be bad also.
The hammer ideal is to shock it off.
The heat is to swell the outside so the chuck will fall out.
 
Sounds like it's time for a new chuck. In removing the old one, there are commercially available seperating wedges that will help immensely. You can also make your own
wedge if you wish.Make it U shape in general, the opening in the center is to clear the arbor.
 
OK, new chuck needed, and I think John has the answer for how to remove the old chuck. The spindle ends with a 2MT and the chuck accepts the 2MT, no screws, set screws, threading; just the MT pressing into the receiver for it in the chuck.

I made a wood wedge out of piece of hardwood flooring, it is shaped like a door stop with a U cut into it to go around the spindle but the wood splits before the chuck releases. I thought I might try putting a couple hose clamps around the wedge to keep it from spliting but I may be way off base, is it going to take a lot more pressure than I can put on it by hammering a wood wedge between the bearing and the chuck?

If the chuck is bad heating shouldn't hurt anything important, will it?
 
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Heating the chuck will expand it tighter into the spindle, would a chisel on either side tapped in do the trick? By chance is there a hole that goes through the upper pullys that a rod could be put in to drive out the chuck?
 
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