Drill Press Chuck Falls out HELP!!!

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bruce119

bruce119

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I inherited an old large drill press. Still works a little dirty and rusty. I took the chuck off to clean and free it up. I got it working good the only problem is it won't stay put. It is a MT-2 chuck. I tried to send it in hard and after a drill or 2 through some wood it falls out.

Is there anything I can do to get it to stick. Is there something you can put on it.

Thanks for your help
Bruce
 
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Try a block of wood on the table and pull the handle down so the chuck pushes against the wood. I had to do that once and it worked great.
 
Clean the chuck with DNA very well and then retract the jaws in all the way. Now place the chuck in the oven for a good 10 minutes. Clean off the taper while it bakes. Now using a oven mit and a block of wood, set it in place and give her a good old whack with the block of wood straight up. (Moderate, don't try to break the 2x4!) [}:)]
 
Originally posted by Firefyter-emt
<br />Clean the chuck with DNA very well and then retract the jaws in all the way. Now place the chuck in the oven for a good 10 minutes. Clean off the taper while it bakes. Now using a oven mit and a block of wood, set it in place and give her a good old whack with the block of wood straight up. (Moderate, don't try to break the 2x4!) [}:)]
Click to expand...

Ahh the old hot and cold trick like seating a bearing. And I did clean it very well and I did pound it in. Carefully of corse not wanting to cause more damange.

But let me think would I want freeze or heat the chuck. I thought heat expands. I can't really do anything with the drill press taper. So would'nt heating the chuck cause it to expand. Maybe there's something eles at work here how hot very hot. perhaps it softens the metal just a bit. Just trying to figgure the logic behind it.
Thanks for the help
 
I am lost Lee, does he mean the morse taper into the quill or the jacobs chuck onto the "J" taper?
It sounds to me like he is talking about the #2 taper going into the quill.
 
Bruce,

Before doing all that heating, try the wood on the table and bring the chuck down, push kinda hard (as DozerMite suggested). Worked for me on my third try.

I decided I was not putting STRAIGHT pressure on it before that, any little skewing will make it not seat properly. At least that was my theory - it has stayed in place ever since (couple years now).
 
The biggest thing is to be sure you are getting good taper contact. Sand or file off any nicks or bumps that could interfere with the good seating of the entire taper. It's a show stopper if that isn't done. Wet sand it with WD-40 and then clean it with acetone. Use a board and a hammer to seat it in the chuck well.
 
My only worry is if your table has been abused and you really crank on it hard you "could" damage the table, even break it. Slim chance, but the quill should have a sholder that rests against the head casting so a tap will not damage the bearings and once cool, that chuck will be nice and secure.

Like Bruce pointed out, the taper on the drill is male and the chuck is female so the chuck will sightly expand and the cooling from the taper pressed in will lock it in nice and tight.

More important than that, is... Whatchagot for a drill press?
 
Is it seating before it comes out? Some have to be turned a little to line up properly. If it's lined up properly, giving it a whack with the jaws retracted should do the trick.
 
Well I went with the heat method. I did all the cleaning and whacking it didn't do the job. My guess is it is slightly worn maybe got spun a few time over the years. It is in pretty good shape no rust or pits. Well not too much were talking an antique here. I would guess 30 + years. But still works what I like it has a 3 1/2 " travel & weighs over 100lbs. My other bench top 10" Delta only has 2 1/2" travel and is a light weight.

I heated that chuck up to 500 deg. and smacked it on. We'll see in the morning when it cools.

I don't even know if I can get parts for it. I will start searching. It mite need a spindle and chuck. It is a Yuasa AX-14.

Thanks for the help
 
Bruce.

The larger drill presses mostly have a hollow shaft,when I had this occassional problem I replaced the chuck shaft with one that has an internal thread in the end,using a matching threaded rod from the top locknutted on top of a strong washer,no more problem. The same principal is used in Mill Drills.Ask around machine shops for more info,also the morse taper should be reamed clean on old equipment as well.The bearings in the drill are critical for accurate drilling.

Horses for courses. Take care Peter.
 
Originally posted by bruce119
<br />Well I went with the heat method. I did all the cleaning and whacking it didn't do the job. My guess is it is slightly worn maybe got spun a few time over the years. It is in pretty good shape no rust or pits. Well not too much were talking an antique here. I would guess 30 + years. But still works what I like it has a 3 1/2 " travel & weighs over 100lbs. My other bench top 10" Delta only has 2 1/2" travel and is a light weight.

I heated that chuck up to 500 deg. and smacked it on. We'll see in the morning when it cools.

I don't even know if I can get parts for it. I will start searching. It mite need a spindle and chuck. It is a Yuasa AX-14.

Thanks for the help
Click to expand...

Come on now. I resemble that remark!
I put a couple drops of ca on mine.
 
FWIW.. Putting the chuck in the freezer will not work, you must put the taper in the freezer. This means you have to take the drill press apart (or you have a big fricking freezer!) If the heat does not work, you may want to clean it again, and use lock-tite, press it against a block of wood and lock the handle like that over night.

Let me know if the heat worked for you. [;)]
 
I used heat 450 degrees for about 3 hrs. set it in hard and let it cool over night. So far it is holding but a little more time will tell. Before I couldn't even turn the drill on and it would fall out. And I did clean it and pound it in. The vibration of drilling would cause it come out. Pretty scary having a chuck fall out with a bit in it spinning like a top. It makes you jump out of the way.

I did a lot of work on small engines and use the heat and cold to remove and seat bearings. Thanks for the tip a little more time will tell.

Thanks for the help this site is great lots of help here.
Thanks
Bruce
 
I have a friend in town who is a master professional wood worker. He owns, and has owned, many tools. On another forum, this same question came up. Friends technique, although unique, works well for him and doesn't require heat, cold or wizardry. He cleans the inside and outside of the MTs then spits on the male, inserts and lets rust make the grip.
 
Originally posted by Firefyter-emt
<br />So what say you Bruce... The heat worked, didn't it? [;)]
Click to expand...

Like a charm that was the way to go. I didn't want to CA or coke or spit on it. I have drilling the begezzys out of it and it's holding all's good. Thanks for the tip.[:D]

Now I am going to have to replace the bearings real soon I just hope I can get it back off[:0]

I'm sure it won't be a problem I just dread treaing it down to replace the bearings it is an old drill press. I like it because it has a 3 1/4" drilling depth. My other 10" Ryobi only goes 2 1/2 and was a pain in the but on the longer kits.

Now I just need to get one of those (what is it) hossman pen vises. I understand it is a LONG waiting list. I guess I will loke him up and get on the list. How much are they any one know how long the waite is now.

Thanks for the help
Bruce
 
Originally posted by bruce119
<br />.....Now I just need to get one of those (what is it) <b>hossman</b> pen vises. I understand it is a LONG waiting list. I guess I will loke him up and get on the list. How much are they any one know how long the waite is now.

Thanks for the help
Bruce
Click to expand...

Huffman
 
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