Drill Doctor

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theidlemind

theidlemind

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
506
Location
Berea, Kentucky 40403
I bought myself a Drill Doctor for Christmas and finally got a chance to use it today. Wow:eek:! ANYBODY that uses drill bits should not be without a doctor.
I will probably even sharpen new bits now.
I had cast some gator jaw that had given me fits before with my .jr bits so I tried out my newly sharpened bits on gator, went through it like I was drilling pudding.
I highly recommend sharpening bits, can't say enough about it.....
 
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Good to hear. I to just purchased the 750X but I haven't had a chance to try it yet. What angle did you sharpen your bits. 118 degrees?
 
I really like and use mine --- I have read many dissuasions about Drill Dr. with many that say it is a waste of good money! But like I said -- I like mine and use it with great results...
 
Can't agree any more!! I love mine and any time I am drilling something important and must succeed the first time, I sharpen before I use a bit.

Highly recommended!!
 
Yep... I have the cheaper model, but I've said the same thing... Its AMAZING how much easier things go with a sharp bit. I had issues with certain materials (like angle cut dymondwood) early on... now - no issues at all, and I drill all the way through (some say to stop short to avoid blowouts).
 
gallianp said:
I really like and use mine --- I have read many dissuasions about Drill Dr. with many that say it is a waste of good money! But like I said -- I like mine and use it with great results...
Click to expand...

I have a 750X and its fantastic, those that have one and are having problems, probably didn't read/see the instructions properly, there is a learning curve to understand it???
Kryn
 
I keep going to buy one but always am torn between which model to get. I'd love to get the dbss because I do have spade bits I'd love to sharpen, however I don't think that version gives me what I want from the twist bit side (split point, larger chuck, etc...)
 
Just convert your brad point bits to split point bits. They seem to work equally well. Actually, I'm liking the split point better.

Wife got me the 500x for Christmas, so now I'm looking to sell my 250. Still works great, just doesn't have as many bells and whistles.
 
gallianp said:
I really like and use mine --- I have read many dissuasions about Drill Dr. with many that say it is a waste of good money! But like I said -- I like mine and use it with great results...
Click to expand...

The DD works well IF you read and follow the directions to the letter. AFter sharpening, the flutes must be equal in length. The gage below is useful for ensuring the flutes are the same length up to the split point.
Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Measuring Tools, Cutting Tools and Shop Supplies
 
Got a 750x and love it. It's amazing how many brand new bits I have purchased to to drill different size pen tube holes that were not properly sharpened.When properly sharpened they cut sooooooo much better.
 
KBs Pensnmore said:
gallianp said:
I really like and use mine --- I have read many dissuasions about Drill Dr. with many that say it is a waste of good money! But like I said -- I like mine and use it with great results...
Click to expand...

I have a 750X and its fantastic, those that have one and are having problems, probably didn't read/see the instructions properly, there is a learning curve to understand it???
Kryn
Click to expand...

I have been through the booklet and watched the DVD that came with it.
I sharpened a Norseman 27/64 bit which was cutting straight but was getting dull. After sharpening - it looked really good! - I drilled out several blank and the entry hole was oval! Any ideas on what could have caused that? What I may have done wrong?
 
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As somebody else said, there IS a learning curve. And the old advice to RTFM (Read the *Friendly* Manual) is particularly important. I didn't find the DVD to be sufficiently helpful for my 750x because the info flew by so fast. Sharpening a 12.5mm bit gave me the FITS until I figured out which thing(S) I was doing wrong. From experience, if you have a problem, it's undoubtedly because you didn't perform the setup properly for the bit. Things to check: Is the bit turned correctly so that the grippers grab the spaces between the flutes to the point where they keep the bit from turning? Is the bit all the way in to the stop? Are you lining up the correct indicator (NOT the white line) in the alignment port? And, finally - and this was the final trick for me - if the sharpened drill is not aggressive enough in cutting and tends, rather, to burnish the hole, move the indicator point on the chuck a notch or two to the LEFT (the + direction) in the alignment port. Made all the difference in the world! Oh, one more tip. The indicator on the chuck is not so easy to see if you don't have strong, direct light shining on the DD when aligning the bit. Old eyes probably also contribute to the problem. Anyway, I found it helpful to steal one of my artist wife's "paint pens" and make a mark on the indicators, and on the notch that worked best for my drill. Russ
 
keithbyrd said:
How many of you have used the Drill Doctor to convert brad point bits to split tip?
Is there a lesson learned to share?
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Keith; I would rough out the bit on a grinder and coarse wheel if you have one, then finish up on the DD.

On my drill press I don't have enough vertical lift for some of the larger drill bits and the blank vise. So I took a cheapo bit and cut off 3/4" of shank, then shortened the bit by about 1" with a cutoff wheel. Finally I touched up the flutes on a grinder and finished on the DD. Prefect!
 
Thanks Randy.
I did one without roughing off on the grinder - talk about a lot of half turns! I got it down but not real happy with the sharpness. I will tweak it some more tomorrow night! Thanks for the tip!
 
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