Drill chuck arbor for Jet 1014VSI

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bluesguitar

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I have a drill chuck arbor that works fine on the live center side of the lathe (originally purchased to use opposite a pen blank chuck) but today when I tried to reverse it and seat it on the drive side to hold a bottle stopper mandrel, the arbor won't go in all the way, it's too long and hits a narrow part of the opening.

I have other MT2 centers that fit in there fine but they're shorter than the drill chuck arbor in question by at least 15mm.

I found an arbor that looks shorter online at the Little Machine Shop but I'm not toally sure so before I ordered it I figured I'd check with you guys.

My other thought was to grind off 15mm of the longer arbor but figure it must be super hard steel and don't want to ruin the grinder (?). The arbor narrows down to kind a fat screwdriver shaped part at the end.

The drill chuck side is a JT33' btw.

Thanks,

Mitch
 
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I have one like that, got it off e-bay and never gave the length of it a second thought til i tried to put it in the tail stock, measured it with another arbor that fits, brought it to work and cut it down with a metal chop saw, cleaned it up, fits perfect now. So, if you have excess to a metal chop saw, easy fix.
 
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Closest thing I have access to is the slow speed grinder I use for my lathe tools. I guess I could try. Thanks!:biggrin:
 
I'm not to sure about using your slow speed grinder, if thats all you have to work with, at least change your grinder wheel.
 
I experienced the same problem with my jet 1014VS. The rectangular end needs to be cut off in order to fit into the taper on the drive. I'm not sure but you could take it to a machine shop and have it cut down for not too much money. The drill chuck taper is hardened steel and If you try grinding it down you'll take the temper out of it plus you'll ruin your wheel.
 
I have cut off the end of a MT 2 using a cut off wheel on a "Dremel" type tool. Used up one small, disposable wheel. No over heating problems with short pauses in the process. BTW, did the same with some larger diam twist drills...same good results (after a session with the Drill Dr).

A caution: be careful to not cut off too much. You could loose the auto-eject feature when used on the tail stock.
 
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Mike D said:
I experienced the same problem with my jet 1014VS. The rectangular end needs to be cut off in order to fit into the taper on the drive. I'm not sure but you could take it to a machine shop and have it cut down for not too much money. The drill chuck taper is hardened steel and If you try grinding it down you'll take the temper out of it plus you'll ruin your wheel.
Click to expand...

Not fully correct but not wrong either. Here is the lowdown on that.

Many bladesmiths will a block of tempered steel and grind it down to knife shape with out loosing the temper or heat treatment of the steel. Keep a bucket of water next to the bench and dont use gloves when grinding it, ever pass or so dunk it in the water to keep it cool and you will be fine.

If this is like my jet 1220VS you have to advance the tail stock some to fit the drill chuck because as you retract the tail stock it will pry the chuck out :) tool less removal that one is.

Ed
 
edstreet said:
Mike D said:
I experienced the same problem with my jet 1014VS. The rectangular end needs to be cut off in order to fit into the taper on the drive. I'm not sure but you could take it to a machine shop and have it cut down for not too much money. The drill chuck taper is hardened steel and If you try grinding it down you'll take the temper out of it plus you'll ruin your wheel.
Click to expand...

Not fully correct but not wrong either. Here is the lowdown on that.

Many bladesmiths will a block of tempered steel and grind it down to knife shape with out loosing the temper or heat treatment of the steel. Keep a bucket of water next to the bench and dont use gloves when grinding it, ever pass or so dunk it in the water to keep it cool and you will be fine.

If this is like my jet 1220VS you have to advance the tail stock some to fit the drill chuck because as you retract the tail stock it will pry the chuck out :) tool less removal that one is.

Ed
Click to expand...

Sorry ED, your correct, I didn't mention the use of a bucket of water for cooling to control the overheating.

Fitting the chuck in his tail stock isn't the problem, it's when he uses it in the head stock that it's too long and needs to be cut down in order to use the drill chuck in the head stock so that the male taper makes full contact in the female taper.

As others have said above, the cut off wheel in the dremal is a good solution and would be the cheapest and fastest way assuming he has a dremal.
 
If you don't feel like grinding, then harborfreight has the entire jacobs chuck listed for $15 (some may say that HF isn't the best quality..true..but for the record I have several of these and used them for years with no problem)...

...also, there is a 20% off coupon on HF home page..

1/2" MT2 Mini-Lathe Drill Chuck
 
penhead said:
If you don't feel like grinding, then harborfreight has the entire jacobs chuck listed for $15 (some may say that HF isn't the best quality..true..but for the record I have several of these and used them for years with no problem)...

...also, there is a 20% off coupon on HF home page..

1/2" MT2 Mini-Lathe Drill Chuck
Click to expand...

Good idea John and thanks for the link and heads up. One of the reviewers says he mounted it on his Jet Midi lathe and it's a little too long in the tail stock, I wounder if it wouldn't have the same problem when mounted in the headstock which is the problem that Mitch stated in the post. Have you tried it in the head stock to see if it fully fits? If it does I may have to buy one myself.
 
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Not opposed to buying a new chuck with the arbor and HF stuff has served me well also. But agree I can't tell whether that arbor is too long to fit in the headstock of my lathe.

I don't have a working Dremel tool in my shop right now and have worked around the need for one-- maybe now's the time.
 
Rotary tool selection: Many here, myself included, have experienced less than acceptable results with the Dremel tool. For me, the main bearing failed waaay too soon. I replaced with a Milwaukee rotary and am very satisfied so far. I say: if you have not yet bought a Dremel, DON'T.
 
You read my mind, SteveG-- I had a Dremel in the past and it performed poorly and I got rid of it. I've looked at replacing it with a B&D or something else and I'll check the Milwaukee straight away!
 
I used the dremel to cut one down ... It worked very well.

You can't have too many chucks though. Buying a second one IS a good option. :smile: I keep a spare one with a center bit in it at all times.
 
I cut mine down last night with a die grinder and a cutoff wheel. It now fits like a glove (not like OJs)...lol. Just make sure to remove the burrs and polish the cut end so it has a slight round over around the circumference of where you cut otherwhise you may damage the morse taper in the head or tail stock.
 
Decided to order a "short" MT2/33JT arbor from the Little Machine Shop which cost all of $12 and change including shipping so I'll see how that works and let everyone know.
 
Just got the "short" arbor from Little Machine Shop and it's perfect. For 12 bucks a pretty painless solution. Thanks for all the input guys.
Mirch
 
Oops I wasn't as fixed as I thought because the arbor doesn't stay in the headstock. Didn't know about drawbars and this little arbor isn't threaded for one. Live and learn!

Mitch
 
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