Fred in NC
Member
There is an idea I am working on that might save you frustration and money.
Don't throw away your dull pen mills !
- Thread starter Fred in NC
- Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
- Status
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
dougle40
Member
My answer to a dull pen mill is simply to sharpen it !!
First disassemble it and put the mill section in something to hold it steady (a small table vise or a pair of vise grips) then use a small (1/4") sanding drum in a Dremel tool and lightly run it across the top of each flute , maintaining the proper angle , then touch up the edge with a small stone or jewelers file making sure that you keep it flat on the leading edge of the flute . If you've done it right --- Watch out the first time you use it because it will cut the wood like butter .
First disassemble it and put the mill section in something to hold it steady (a small table vise or a pair of vise grips) then use a small (1/4") sanding drum in a Dremel tool and lightly run it across the top of each flute , maintaining the proper angle , then touch up the edge with a small stone or jewelers file making sure that you keep it flat on the leading edge of the flute . If you've done it right --- Watch out the first time you use it because it will cut the wood like butter .
bnosie
Member
Hi Fred, any news on your idea?
Fred in NC
Member
Bill, I am using a homemade replacement for pen mills. The cutting surface is 80 grit sandpaper. It seems to do a good job. I just cut a 1/4" hole in a piece of PSA paper, and put it on the end. This is the one I am currently using:
<br />
My idea is to take a worn out mill, and reverse the cutting area, and use self-sticking (PSA, pressure sensitive adhesive) sandpaper on it instead. It should work just like my jig.
My idea is to take a worn out mill, and reverse the cutting area, and use self-sticking (PSA, pressure sensitive adhesive) sandpaper on it instead. It should work just like my jig.
bnosie
Member
I usually cut my blanks 1/8" - 1/4" oversize and use the mill to trim them down. Sanding that much down might be problematic, guess I'd just have to make the blanks closer to actual size.
But your method would solve one problem I've had, I cut some bloodwood blanks at about a 45 degree angle, and 3 out of 4 times, the mill broke a large corner off, ruining the whole blank. Thought I used too much pressure, so I tried going gently, but same thing. Probably needs to be sharpened again (what a pain), but sanding would solve that.
But your method would solve one problem I've had, I cut some bloodwood blanks at about a 45 degree angle, and 3 out of 4 times, the mill broke a large corner off, ruining the whole blank. Thought I used too much pressure, so I tried going gently, but same thing. Probably needs to be sharpened again (what a pain), but sanding would solve that.
Fred in NC
Member
Bill, I don't trim blanks with the mill. If there is too much extra wood, I cut the extra with the bandsaw. I use a disk sander, which I carefully squared to sand off the excess. I just use the jig to make sure it is perfectly round.
Most disk sanders have a problem, the table is wobbly, since it is held by a shaft. There is a solution besides getting a more expensive sander. Make your own sturdy table!
Most disk sanders have a problem, the table is wobbly, since it is held by a shaft. There is a solution besides getting a more expensive sander. Make your own sturdy table!
Big Mike
Member
I keep my pen mills sharp by hand sharpening them with diamond files. It only takes a few minutes to do and I use three grits and when through they really cut. Takes a little practice but it works. Not unlike sharpening a Forstner bit...
- Status