Does this exist?

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angboy

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I'm wondering if there is any sort of threaded jocobs chuck that can be used on a lathe? I'm working on making some of the pillbox and mirror tops and have the type of jacobs chuck that just fits into the taper part of the headstock- or in my case gets banged in with a mallet since it keeps wanting to come out. Anyway, when the lathe starts running, the chuck keeps wanting to wander out. So I was thinking that there must be a version of a chuck that would screw on to the headstock like my faceplate does. I don't know if I explained this very clearly or not, but if it makes sense, does anyone know if such a thing exists?
 
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Do you have a regular chuck (i.e. talon, nova, etc.)?

If so...all you need is a smaller set of jaws. (#1 dovetail, #1 spigot, long nose, etc.)
 
Most MT taper Jacobs chucks have a threaded hole in the taper end allowing you to use threaded rod and a nut to secure it in the headstock.
 
Originally posted by Dario
<br />Do you have a regular chuck (i.e. talon, nova, etc.)?

If so...all you need is a smaller set of jaws. (#1 dovetail, #1 spigot, long nose, etc.)
Click to expand...

Dario- you should know I don't speak the official language spoken on this site- the language of Tool! [:D][:D] But I'll try to figure out what all these foreign words mean and if/what I have!
 
Oh yeah, what Scott said. Woodcraft sells the rod and nut...or just bring your morse taper to home depot and find a matching rod, cheaper that way. Both ways they are cheap though.
 
If I follow you, look down between the jaws of the chuck, many chucks have a screw that hold them to the shaft. If its missing then that might be your problem.
 
Angela--Scott's advice is sound. The Jacob's chuck will work it's was free if the tail stock is not pulled up snugly against your wood...which often defeats the purpose. A simple nut, bolt and washer through the headstock and into the chuck will hold the chuck in place. (With credit to Fred in NC who took the time to fully explain this to me many months ago!) [8D]
 
Try putting the Jacobs chuck in the freezer for an hour or so before you start a turning project. Open the chuck all of the way so the jaws are not exposed and give it a good tap with a wooden mallet or scrap piece of 2x4. As was mentioned before, do be sure the hole in the taper is clean. If that doesn't work, check the hole in your spindle carefully for burs or scoring,,,and likewise the taper on your chuck. Maybe one or the other are damaged and need some repair.
 
Angela,

This is the Scroll chuck that Dario mentioned. In the photo, I have the pin jaws in place. They will grab down to around 3/8". There are also smaller ones available...

deskset09.jpg


I always find that a picture is worth 1,000 words!

Cheers,

Fangar
 
Angela,
Both ends of the tapers need to be kept clean and smooth. If there is debris or burrs on either or both parts, your taper will fall out. Also, over time, banging in your taper with a mallet will ruin the bearings on your lathe.

These are tools that can help you keep your tapers clean
http://tinyurl.com/rtyob
http://tinyurl.com/r75j2

If the male part of your taper has a burr, you may get lucky if you use a file to smooth out the burr. File to much and you will ruin the taper.

If the female part of your taper has a burr, more serious work is needed.
 
Originally posted by thetalbott4
<br />Most MT taper Jacobs chucks have a threaded hole in the taper end allowing you to use threaded rod and a nut to secure it in the headstock.
Click to expand...

Don'tknow that it is accurate to say that "MOST" chuck arbors come with a threaded hole?? Maybe I've lead a sheltered life; but I have never seen one. That being said, Lee Valley does sell one......a 1/2" chuck for $26.50 threaded for a 1/4"x20 tpi draw bar. This would be an inexpensive alternative to what I suggested in my email. If you limit your projects to small turnings, this should work just fine.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=49251&cat=1,180,42334
 
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