Does anyone use...

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C. Scott

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...the cheap superglue? The stuff that you can get from the dollar stores. Is it essentially the same stuff in the bottles? 4 tubes for a $1 or even 2 tubes for 33 cents.

Some background:

When I first got into penmaking 6 years or so ago. I bought the CA lighting, or whatever it was called, from Woodcraft along with the kits. In less than 3 months the stuff would harden and become useless. Since I only made a few pens a year I couldn't use up the bottle before it would harden. As time went on and I began to make more pens (for gifts) I started using the "cheap stuff" and it seemed to work and not dropping $10 on a bottle that I would only get to use 1/4 of it (if that much) saved me money too.

I discovered polyurethane glue and began to use it on wood working projects and I really liked its holding ability. Then I got to thinking, "this stuff sticks to metal too, hmm [8D]" I wonder if I could use it for penmaking? Early last year I finally got my own lathe and began to make pens for sale. At the same time I began using the poly glue. It is the best glue, IMHO, for gluing in the tubes. I didn't want a pen coming apart and that had happened with the CA (hasn't yet with the poly). It does take longer to dry, but that's no biggee AND I can and do use it for nearly all of my wood projects.

That being said I still use the CA (cheap stuff) for cracks and voids and glueing centerbands. I even used it to glue up a cigar pen in mesquite last week (I was in a hurry [:I]) I also tried my first simplified CA finish with it and liked it.

Am I flirting with disaster here. When I use CA glue should I buy the expensive stuff or is the cheap stuff just as good? Keep in mind I only turned about 35 pens last year.

Regards to all :)

Chris

-"I'll be right there! just one more pen to do!"
 
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One thing you can do to help keep your CA from "hardening" is to store it in an air tight container with some descicant (sp?) or silica crystals. The descicant will remove the moisture from the air in the container. I started using this last fall and it works wonders. In Memphis there is enough humidity in the air to completely harden an entire bottle of CA, DAMHIK.

As far as using the cheap stuff, if it works, why not. The only thing I can see you loosing is the ability to have different thicknesses of CA, but that may not be a concern for you.

Ryan
 
Add up the grams of the "cheap
stuff" and you will find it isn't cheap/
 
I agree with C. Scott and the others, CA is, for me, impossible to store. One use and the rest is wasted. And because of that it is never 'cheap'. Expensive stuff. I keep some on hand for 'must' uses like repairing things but CA is not an element in any of my woodworking. And, I do hope some quality CAs are better than others. I had surgery this week. The doctor closed up an 8 inch insision with Super Glue.[:0][:)]
 
I have used it. It will get you by in a pinch, but it is not as thin as the thin CA.

As noted, in quantity, it is not all that cheap.
 
I've been using the Titebond brand I get at Lowes. So far, it has worked great. And as far as the thickness goes, they do sell several.....I usually get the "precision" which is thin, and also a bottle of the gel type. So far, no failures of any type.
 
In terms of brand names of CA, there's not much difference in the holding power. There is more difference between manufacturers, however that is rarely listed on the lable. By the way, the difference in holding power is generally from a low of 300 pounds (120 kg) per drop to 800 pounds (320 kg) or more.
 
I use the cheap stuff to stabilize something but not to actually glue something up . I've had bad experences with using the cheap stuff for something that matters.
 
Thanks for the replies! Eaglesc, you're right, after I sat down and did a little math the "cheap stuff" is not inexpensive. I was also using the term to describe quality. The little tubes are convenient, but it takes almost one tube to do a pen.

In the other forum CA was talked about. Now that I know how to store the stuff, I am going to get a bottle. I still believe the poly is the way to go with the tubes, but I like the simplied CA finish a lot and there is always that pen that I "can't wait" on [;)]

Thanks again to all [:)] I am so glad I found ya'll! I have learned so much in so little time!

Regards to all [:)]

Chris
 
If you look at the tube scuffing thread and the method I describe and use medium or thick plus accelerant,
I belive you'll switch from poly and never have to wait to turn a pen again.
It's easier to get the CA off your fingers than the stain from the poly.

Added
The more I think about itI think you coiuld turn aand finish a pen out of balsa wood using the method I described and it would hold up well.
 
Eagle, I am going to order some CA [:)] and learned some time ago to scuff and CLEAN those tubes [;)].

It's funny you mentioned the Balsa wood. I was thinking about that yesterday. [:D]
 
I have been cleaning and scuffing my brass tubes for many years now and still do not like CA for glueing blanks. The stuff gets to brittle. Drop a pen on the floor with CA and see what happens. i'll take the poly or epoxy anytime and save the CA for center bands and finishes. As far as quality of the glue I can not see much difference in it for finishes. I have had some problems with the tubes of gel holding the center band on the brass tube. I now use the Tuff Stuff brand in xtra gap filling type for center bands with good results.
 
I gave up using Ca glue because after some time I found the tubes start to spinn in the blanks.
I switched to Gorilla glue and i have not had a problem again. The only time I use CA is if I have to make a pen on the spot for a quick order.
 
To each his own.
I did have problems with CA and tubes when I first started but after "machine" scuffing none at all.
As far as dropping A glued and finished pens I have done that many times with no ill effects.As far as reccomended adhesives,I have seen epoxy and CA glues by manufacturers cannot say that I have ever seen poly but that is not to say that it isn't.
I am not crazy about poly glues.
personal prefrence,your mileage may vary.
 
as far as the cheap ca glue goes you would be better off to spend a little extra for good stuff. I make shift knobs and had made some from really nice maplewith a ca finish. Thought I could save some money also so I got some ca for a dollar for 5 tubes. well after a week my beautiful work was all yellow from the glue.The wasted knobs far outweighed the cost of good glue. Randy
 
I also use Poly for gluing tubes. my main reasoning beind this is that not always does the drilled hole match the tube size tight enogh for my liking. the expansion of the poly simply gives me piece of mind. the only problem I have had with poly is when I do not give it the required set time. I used Epoxy before that. i only use CA in a pinch.
as far as storing CA. quite a bit of conversation has gone on in the not to distant paste about storing it in a refrigerator. and storing it with the cap off. I have one bottle that is nearly a year old that has been kept at room temp. with the cap on. and it is just fine. just glued my fingers together a couple of days ago with it. my main problem with the big bottles is that nothing stays upright in my work zone. tip one of these over and it fils the cap with glue. now none of my caps fit tightly. this has not caused a problem with the glue. lends a bit of credability to the cap of ideas.
 
I used CA, cheap, medium priced and Expensive. All Work. Only point is cheap don't heal as well as expensive and the tube separates from the blank... [:(] So,

For 7mm pens I use a B&D 9/32 Bullet bit. I then use poly after swabbing the inside of the blank with water. The tubes have been cleaned. The 7mm drill bit allows hydraulic expansion and partial ejection of the tube The foaming with the 9/32 hole allows a better grip on blank and tube.[8D]
 
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