Cheer Doctor's Workshop

[joefrog]

I ordered some of the pen finish from Doctor's Workshop. It's a CA-finish alternative. I admit I love it! It's quick, easy, and so far so good. I'm liking it!

 

[Edgar]

Hey Joel, I've been thinking of trying some myself. I'd love to see some pictures of your finished pens & hearing about your application process.

Ed

 

[leaycraft]

I agree I'm using it more and more. I really like the finish and recommend it highly. It even worked well on the ebony I used for my July PITH for Jon Brooks. If you haven't yet tried it You won't be disappointed.

 

[suefox51]

does someone have the website address?

 

[walshjp17]

Here is Doctor's Woodshop home page: Home However, The site owner is out the country until 9/22. If you want to try some sooner, go to Peachtree Woodworks. Ron Brown licenses Doctors Woodshop products. http://www.ptreeusa.com/ron_brown_finishes.htm

 

[Ulises Victoria]

Good to know. I just ordered two of their products, which are already on their way to me.
I watched the videos in their website and was convinced they may be good stuff.
BTW I saw that post saying they would be out from the 4th to the 22 and that no order would be shipped until after that. However, my order dated 5 Sept was confirmed by an email from the owner and shipped next day.

 

[Indiana_Parrothead]

Let us know how it hold up with use. I used a product very similiar to this, Myland's High Build Friction Polish and it looks very good when you first put it on but it does not hold up to repeated handling.

Both of these products are shellac and wax based, the Doctor's Workshop does add Walnut oil but I am not sure that would be enough to make the finish durable enough. Doctor's workshop has two similar product Doctor's Workshop Walnut Oil/Carnauba Wax & Shellac and the Pen Turner's Plus the only difference being the wax used. In the description for the Walnut Oil/Carnauba Wax mixture it say's This is a friction polish that produces a hard, restorable finish. Applied to the spinning piece as a first finish or as a redressing application, that pretty much tells me the finish will not last like a CA finish.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I am looking for a good friction polish to use for turnings other than pens - stoppers, tips, pendants etc.

I'd like to give doctors a try but I'm not sure which of the products would be best. They seem very similar.

 

[walshjp17]

I use the Walnut Oil for wet sanding and the Pens Plus for finishing. Gives a great finish and shine w/o a plastic look.

 

[Ulises Victoria]

The way I understand it, by watching the videos in the site, is that the Walnut oil functions as a sanding lubricant also. Then you apply Walnut Oil/Carnuba wax/Shellac for a more durable finish for items that will be handled frequently like pepper mills, bottle stoppers and of course pens. Or, you apply the High build friction polish for a more shiny but less durable look, for items like vases and things that will not be handled frequently.

 

[Scruffy]

At Mike's suggestion,

of which I am glad he made.

I use the Walnut oil for sanding and Pens Plus (for pens and small ornaments).

Despite what is said, I do notice a color shift with walnut oil. Much less than BLO or Tung oil. And it dries, mineral never seems to dry. A 50/50 mixture of walnut oil and mineral oil will pull the walnut oil deeper into the wood, but you will have to wait 24-48 hours after oiling and dry the mineral oil off.

And I also use the High Build Friction Finish for bowls (less than 6"), ornaments (medium to large), bangles and pepper mills.

For large bowls (greater than 6"), I still use dewaxed shellac for darker wood and WTF for lighter wood.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

of which I am glad he made.

I use the Walnut oil for sanding and Pens Plus (for pens and small ornaments).

Despite what is said, I do notice a color shift with walnut oil. Much less than BLO or Tung oil. And it dries, mineral never seems to dry. A 50/50 mixture of walnut oil and mineral oil will pull the walnut oil deeper into the wood, but you will have to wait 24-48 hours after oiling and dry the mineral oil off.

And I also use the High Build Friction Finish for bowls (less than 6"), ornaments (medium to large), bangles and pepper mills.

For large bowls (greater than 6"), I still use dewaxed shellac for darker wood and WTF for lighter wood.

Do you find the high build to be much shinier and the pens plus to be much more durable?

I'd like to try one product out and I'm not sure which. And don't want to spend money on a product I won't use much.

I bought a bigger bottle of WTF and hardly ever use it. I bought a tiny bottle of shellawax and use it often. :-/.

Looking for something with a similar finish to shellawax.

 

[Ulises Victoria]

What I can tell you, Dan, is that the shiny degree is not that much of a difference. Go to the site (links in previous post) and watch a video where he uses the Walnut/Carnuba/Shellac (durable stuff) on half of a cocobolo bar and High Build FP (shinier stuff) on the other half. You will barely see a difference.

I am always willing to try new stuff, so I bought a bottle each of the Walnut Oil/Carnuba/Shellac and the Walnut oil sanding lubricant.

 

[Scruffy]

If, you are going to use it strictly on pens,

then pens plus.

If you may use it on other things High Build. I'm on my second bottle of walnut oil and second bottle of High Build.

But I think you have nothing to lose by going to the web site and watching the videos. Once you get past the guys elitist attitude, he presents some good information.

 

[joefrog]

I like the warm feel of it. I've been using it over the wax coat, and it dries nicely. Hopefully I'm not doing it wrong! I did watch the videos but as everything else, it fades with time... I may need to go watch it again!