DNA drying time

[PenTurnerJohn]

If you don't do that, then wet sanding is the best way to sand with the finer grits without slowing down the lathe. Wet sanding requires a lubricant such as water or wax or whatever. There is nothing wrong with doing that, but we should wait until everything in the lubricant has evaporated BEFORE the finish is applied to the wood. And, that can take as long as waiting overnight.

The same is true when using Denatured Alcohol (DNA) to clean the wood before finishing. Failure to let let the DNA evaporate can cause cloudiness under the finish later. Again, that can be an overnight wait.

I prefer to sand at a slow speed. There are no problems with the black paper, and there is no waiting overnight for anything to evaporate.
Russ Fairfield

Are there any solutions for speeding up the drying time of DNA?

John
Olathe KS

 

[Dario]

DNA dries fast but not fast enough for me. For that reason, I try to avoid using it (even just to clean the blank) if at all possible. I learned the hard way early this year when I used DNA to clean my blank. Most time I had to strip the finish to bare wood to fix it.

Speeding drying?...maybe moving hot air will (that is a big maybe).

 

[PenTurnerJohn]

Dario,

1. Do you think my heat gun would be wise?

2. In place of DNA what do you use to clean your blanks before finishing?

John

 

[clewless]

DNA evaporates in 15-20 seconds...how impatient are you?[][] I wait a minute or two and have never had a cloudiness problem.

 

[Dario]

Not sure about heat gun....if you do it too fast the blank might crack.

I just wipe it with clean paper towel now and it works great as far as I can tell. If you have a compressor blow air on it. Maybe your wife's hair dryer will work []...just don't get caught. []

BTW, I am issuing a disclaimer here that I won't be responsible for any trauma you might sustain if you do get caught [}].

 

[Dario]

Joe,

I had some that I waited more than an hour and still got cloudy CA finish.

 

[clewless]

Must be reallly humidddd in San Antonio[]

 

[wdcav1952]

John,

Part of the issue is that DNA can absorb water as the DNA is used. This could cause the blank to take longer to dry. If you have an air compressor, use that to clean sanding dust from the blanks. Alternatively, buy the cans of compressed air for computer cleaning, etc. However, a compressor is a great thing to have in your shop.

 

[guts]

i don't think i would use any heat on it, DNA is flamable!

 

[PenTurnerJohn]

William,

What I've been doing until now is blowing compressed air to dry the DNA. After reading some of the posts I thought perhaps I needed to do more [hence, the question of heat, time, etc]. I'm still a new turner and every day I'm learning more from all you folks. I sure appreciate the comments. []

John
Olathe KS

 

[turff49]

I've used acetone and Automotive reducer aka lacquer thinner to wipe mine down and have not had any problems. I use my Isopropyl Alcohol for my bowl blank dunking though, and sometimes Methanol.

 

[ctEaglesc]

IF you seal with Ca don't wipe it down with acetone.
I used to use DNA but had problems with cloudiness(ghosts) in a CA finish.
I now use compressed air.

 

[turff49]

My mistake. I thought you guys were talking about wiping down prior to putting any CA on. Bare wood wipe down after sanding. Brian

 

[mdburn_em]

First, let me say I really appreciate the forum. I just made a chrome Baron out of Desert Ironwood. It had/has some stunning figure to it and it's great...if you're a dreamer and like to watch clouds. Yes, it's cloudy and I had no idea why. On such a gorgeous pen, I wanted to do everything right, so this time, I wiped it after every sanding step with dna. (Most pens I don't) Clouds, clouds, clouds...looks like it's gonnna rain. Stripped all the finish off did it again, more clouds.[!]
Thanks to you fine folks, I think I know what to do now. I've got a small air compressor right by my lathe, guess I'll put it to use.