DNA bleached out my Maple blank

[scturner]

I tried DNA for the first time on a pen made from Maple and veneers laminate. I used it to clean the blank after sanding as I've heard that DNA was good for cleaning afterwards. I applied a small amount onto a rag and wiped down the blank while still on the mandrel. I turned around to do something then, came back to the blank and wiped it off. Bad news is it bleached out the blank enough to tell the difference.

I figure I must have left it on too long. This must be some pretty strong stuff! I am thinking I only need to use a little of it and apply with a Q-tip to the veneer only, wipe on quickly, wipe off very quickly.

Just wondering if this has happened to anyone else.
Appreciate your thoughts on how to do it better.

 

[ctEaglesc]

DNA will take the shine off, bleaching it?
Not sure what you mean?

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

Are you sure it was DNA? I’ve submerged maple bowl blanks for a day or two at a time. I never had anyone “bleach†out.

I’m guessing here, maybe the wood is clean for a change?

 

[JimGo]

Like Eagle said, DNA will sometimes take the shine off of a pen because it dries the pen out, which can also make it look bleached. For medium and dark woods, I use BLO to bring back the coloring. I'm not sure what to try for the lighter colored woods - they may show the color of the BLO if you're not careful.

 

[scturner]

Hi all, thanks for the replies.

Well, I'm fairly sure it was the DNA, that was all I put on the blank after I sanded..that's all I can think of that did it. Yes, you guys are right about the shine coming off, sure did! I guess It did actually dry out the blank too much because where it discolored it was just somewhat darker than the rest. Turned it a weird gray, dead looking color.

Just a minute ago, in the shop, I tried some plain ol'water from a spritzer bottle on a rag and lightly wiped it on another veneer blank I got going and the water really brightened up that veneer beautifully! I think as long as I use it lightly then, wipe off it'll be fine. I'm now letting it dry over night to be safe before putting on the finish.

Ron, that's a good one! but this guy bleached out[], the wood was clean though. It's interesting you let the Maple soak for that long and not bleach out and strange that my blank would do it that quick..Hummm must be something in the water down here.[]

Anyway, I'm a little gun shy of DNA now but will give it another shot sometime with a blank. I'm not giving up on it though.

The BLO on darker woods sounds real good! It seems to me that using an oil based finish would really make the veneers "pop" thru but then most oil based finishes seem to take a long time to cure.[]

Ahhhh, the wonders of wood, so many variables.

 

[alamocdc]

David, I also use DNA on my Maple blanks and bowls and I've never had a bleaching problem. I keep mine in an old glue bottle and just squirt a little on a paper towel and wipe the blank or bowl down. However, I have a thought about what MAY have happened in your case. You said that this blank is Maple and veneers. I am therefore assuming (maybe running into trouble here) that this blank is a laminate glue up of at least SOME thin wood(s). If that is the case, it is possible, again possible, that the DNA reacted to or even dissolved some of the glue used for the glue up and bled it into the Maple. I say this because in one place you say bleached and in another you say it turned a dead gray color. These two descriptions are inherently different. Wood glues like Titebond, etc. are not waterproof. In fact, they are water soluble. They are also alcohol soluble and this could actually be the culprit. Especially if you used a significant amount of DNA as it appears from your description.

Just thinking out loud again.

 

[wayneis]

If you are taking the time to do this glue up then why is it a big deal to let a good finish cure. Most of these finishes are dry to the touch and can be assembled but you just need to be carefull handling them.

Wayne

The BLO on darker woods sounds real good! It seems to me that using an oil based finish would really make the veneers "pop" thru but then most oil based finishes seem to take a long time to cure.[]

Ahhhh, the wonders of wood, so many variables.
[/quote]

 

[scturner]

Billy, Wayne. I think I might have went overboard with the DNA and left it on too long drying it out and taking off the shine as a result. I'll be more careful in the future. Haven't used any oil based finishes yet so just assumed they take a longer to dry from what I've read.

 

[JimGo]

David,
I do a BLO/CA finish on most of my pens. From what I understand, when used alone, BLO takes some time to dry. When used in conjunction with CA, the BLO acts as a catalyst and helps the CA dry faster. It also provides a "smoothing layer" (for lack of a better term) that makes the CA go on very nicely. When the CA dries, it heats up, which, I think, helps the BLO to dry faster. We're not talking about super-thick coats of BLO - a nice, thin coat is really all you want/need. I still usually let my finished blanks "rest" overnight, even with the BLO/CA finish, just to let the BLO further cure. But that's not too bad, compared to a week or more for some of the other finishes.

Hope this helps!

 

[rtparso]

Just a thought. DNA can "raise the grain" a little causing a slight fuzz on the wood this will look lighter but will come right off.