DIY buffer

[InkyMike]

Todays project was finishing the disassembly of the old bench top drill press that failed a few weeks ago. I had already repurposed the base/stand.

Today I turned some spacers with set screws and converted it in to a buffer using the buffing wheels from Niles. It's currently chucked in a vice but I plan on making a base plate for it. I may try to thread the shaft to use nuts to hold the wheel but the current cheap 1/2" die I have was having no part of threading the stainless shaft. The shaft has a flat spot that the set screws purchase against and it's easy enough to push the outside spacer in to the wheel. I suppose that will help prevent heat buildup - if the wheel slips, I'm pushing the pens into it too hard.

 

[jttheclockman]

I like it. Mine is an old stand upright sump pump motor. Took motor off and mounted on a board and fine to go. The sump switch works fine for on and off. Be surprised what you can make from throw aways.

 

[InkyMike]

I think I'm going to mount a junction box/switch once I get it mounted. The real question is how much improvement I might see over my current polishing process

 

[jttheclockman]

I think I'm going to mount a junction box/switch once I get it mounted. The real question is how much improvement I might see over my current polishing process

Have to say I do not polish my pens on a buffer. I tried it once because of the push here on the site. But I found 2 things it made no difference and two they could become slingshot material very quickly. I use my buffer to polish some of my scrollsaw bases when I use oily woods.

 

[InkyMike]

Have to say I do not polish my pens on a buffer. I tried it once because of the push here on the site. But I found 2 things it made no difference and two they could become slingshot material very quickly. I use my buffer to polish some of my scrollsaw bases when I use oily woods.

My thought was I'll finish the bodies down with micro mesh and Novus polish - then put them on the mandrel to try the polish. We'll see how it works.

 

[jttheclockman]

My thought was I'll finish the bodies down with micro mesh and Novus polish - then put them on the mandrel to try the polish. We'll see how it works.

Just be careful because it will burn through a finish real quick. Also as I said they do launch well.

 

[InkyMike]

Yeah - plan on being very gentle. And like I mentioned, I can keep the wheel a little loose to protect from getting too aggressive.

 

[monophoto]

Just be careful because it will burn through a finish real quick. Also as I said they do launch well.

I've had more problems with the buffer flinging beautifully finished items across the shop than I have with burning through finish.

Some of the videos show people very aggressively forcing pieces into the spinning wheel, but my experience is that a light touch works far better. Be especially careful with corners and edges - they tend to catch on the wheel - and hold the piece as tightly as you can. But like anything else in tuning, the first few times tend to be less successful - you have to practice until you finally learn how to do it. And it seems like having a stock of a few bad words to release tension also helps!

 

[InkyMike]

I've practiced a little bit on throw away blanks, and I have a couple of almost finished blanks to use as well. Last thing I want is to zing a proper one across the room. I've also been able to make the wheel spin on the mandrel my easily if I keep the collars too loose.

 

[jttheclockman]

If you are going to do pen blanks after turned and finished, maybe make up an old mandrel or even a piece of 3/8" rod and a few nuts and washers and lock blank onto the rod and polish with that. More control.

 

[InkyMike]

If you are going to do pen blanks after turned and finished, maybe make up an old mandrel or even a piece of 3/8" rod and a few nuts and washers and lock blank onto the rod and polish with that. More control.

I was planning on using my existing mandrel. I've been turning between centers but putting the body and cap on the mandrel to finish both simultaneously. My thought is I can leave them on there and take it straight to the buffet after polishing.

 

[jttheclockman]

I was planning on using my existing mandrel. I've been turning between centers but putting the body and cap on the mandrel to finish both simultaneously. My thought is I can leave them on there and take it straight to the buffet after polishing.

That may sound good but to me and only my opinion is doing anything not designed for a mandrel may bend it and then you have an OOR situation. Unless you have an old mandrel, I would go with a rod set up. Believe me a buffer can sneak up on you real quick and fling stuff.

 

[InkyMike]

In Jr High we used to buff acrylic memory cubes - some of us may have got pretty good about sorting out what angle would snag a corner and ricochet the cube off the back wall and across the shop

 

[Todd in PA]

Just turn a tapered rod and slide the barrel onto it. You'll never loose it flying away. The wheel holds it onto the rod.

I turn the lathe down somewhat slow for buffing. If you're burning through the finish, you might be spinning too fast or pushing too hard. Keep the barrel moving at all times.

The difference between buffed and unbuffed is pretty noticeable. It also saves a lot of time on the micromesh, because I'm not trying to get out every tiny radial scratch. The buffing does that for me.

 

[InkyMike]

Just turn a tapered rod and slide the barrel onto it. You'll never loose it flying away. The wheel holds it onto the rod.

I turn the lathe down somewhat slow for buffing. If you're burning through the finish, you might be spinning too fast or pushing too hard. Keep the barrel moving at all times.

The difference between buffed and unbuffed is pretty noticeable. It also saves a lot of time on the micromesh, because I'm not trying to get out every tiny radial scratch. The buffing does that for me.

This thing supposedly spins a little over 1700 rpm. So not super slow

I've got the base for it almost finished. I need to land on what compounds to use. I picked up some very fine compound at the local shop. My thought is to try that, then use a dry wheel, and finalize with some wax back on the lathe. Currently I'm using Novus 3 and 2 followed by wax after the micro mesh.

 

[wimkluck]

Your lathe speed is not the only thing. It matters a lot if your wheel is 5 inch or 10 inch.

 

[InkyMike]

Your lathe speed is not the only thing. It matters a lot if your wheel is 5 inch or 10 inch.

The ones I plan on using are 6"

 

[SteveJ]

Also as I said they do launch well.

That's half the fun!

I use a tapered rod which fits all the tubes we use and extends beyond all except the longest ones so there is very little chance of launching one.

 

[jttheclockman]

That's half the fun!

I use a tapered rod which fits all the tubes we use and extends beyond all except the longest ones so there is very little chance of launching one.

I too use a drift pin when I do use the buffer. Something should be used because trying to hold a small pen blank while that thing is spinning like crazy is nuts. You are asking for disaster. Again Just not a buffer fan. I get the same results on the lathe with a final coat of polish on lathe. Many ways to get the job done. I use a drift pin also when I apply my resin to tube when doing my braiding sleeves.

 

[InkyMike]

Finished up the base and switch box today. Works like a champ and the buffing wheel slips on the shaft about the point it would grab something.