Diagonal cut oak

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qquake

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I'm making a pen for my niece, with some oak that came from her grandfather. I've made several pens from oak in the past, and have been happy with how they turned out. I decided to try diagonal cutting this one, to see how it would look. I don't think I like it. It looks too rough, even after sanding and applying Danish oil.
 

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I disagree Jim. I think it adds a feature you rarely see from a wood as plain as oak is. No matter what way you cut it the deep grain will show and in this case you are highlighting it and to me it gives a nice look. pens are suppose to be unique and using a plain jane blank adds very little. Even if you do nothing to fill the grain in it would have a nice feel to it. A manlier pen so to speak. I like it.
 
You are dealing with a lot of end grain there but I think the effect looks really cool. You managed to get a lot of character and features out of relatively featureless wood at that size. It is begging for a nice thick clear CA finish though. Thanks for showing it. I WILL be doing this.
 
Looks like one of the oaks in the red oak marketing group. Looks good to me.

White oaks will not have the open tyloses and may look better to you.
 
I think I'll go ahead and finish it, and see how it looks. I might spray some Deft lacquer on it after the oil, to see how it looks. Like several have said, I can always start over.
 
I like to cut Oak on the diagonal too because of interest created. So like what we are seeing.

These spalted Oak pens really have a nice gloss but doesn't show up in photo. I don't use sanding sealer to fill pores in wood found using thinned film finish as first coat does the same thing.
 

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I think you guys are right. It's looking pretty good!
 

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I read the above comments, and before seeing your last pics. I would vote for wide-open, HUGE, grains!!! (sanded down smooth mind you...).

The feeling of a smooth - sanded, but open grain wood is unique. For my own pens; I prefer natural grain, walnut oil or Danish oil finish. I don't care if it swells or cracks in a few years, I like the appearance of wood. Yes, a very Matte appearance; but a natural feeling.

Your final pics look great. Nice open pores, looks smooth, probably feels wonderful.

Just my opinion!
 
Jim
Oil/ waterbased/waterborne film finishes build with each coat applied (lacquer, poly, shellac, varnish).

Lacquer & shellac, each coat dissolves into previous coat.
Resigns poly& varnish, may need really light sanding between coats to adhere to previous coat.

Another difference is how they dry, how long it takes to recoat, or fully cure.
Oil/varnish/blends easy to make your own, 1/3 oil, 1/3 resin (varnish/poly) 1/3 solvent/thinner. So many great commercial products hard to mention them all. They leave a light film on wood and easiest to apply. Number of coats of oil varnish blends do not build up finish or increase durability.

Wiping Poly/Varnish or resins easy to make your own using 50% resin & 50% solvent thinner. Two coats equal one coat of film finish. Again many commercial products to choose from, but should check ingredients, do not want more than 60% solvent. Easy to apply and film build increases with number of coats.

Water based & waterborne products differ chemically but work about the same. Some remain clear & some like oil finishes impart an amber hue. While drying times almost the same clean up a lot easier.

JMHO, prefer semi or high gloss finishes because add a depth of sheen and showcase grain/figure in wood. Have also used satin finishes but less coats.
 
I think it turned out pretty good! I'm glad I took everyone's advice and used the diagonal cut blank. I'm very happy with it!
 

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I make a lot of these from oak, I like to sand with 320 and wet with shellac. The shellac acts as a glue and fills the pores with the sanded dust. Dry with a hair dryer and sand down smooth. You may have to repeat to get them all filled.
 

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