Delta 1460

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Alchemist

Alchemist

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Over the weekend I was given a Delta 1460. At least that is what I believe it to be. It was stored in a barn. It's in pretty good condition!

So far, I unseized the 3-jaw chuck.
Disassemblied the head for new bearings.

This is the problem… the semi-original (because I really don't know) is a two prong spliced in lamp wire.

It is set for 110v. Should I try and make it a 3-prong with a ground or keep it 2-prong?

my Laguna 12/16 is out of commission and while I can't do anything about it, I decided I'd work on this.

Laguna customer service is really not good!

So, any help is appreciated!

- David
@alchemist_woodwork
 

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jttheclockman said:
Make it a 3 prong and just ground the case of the motor.
Click to expand...
That's what I was thinking of doing. I have 8 feet of 12 gauge cable and a three prong to rewire it. I was reading about older vintage machines can be "double insulated"?

My shopsmith ER10 is a three prong as well, but I didn't do it.

So, pretty much just take the new wire that goes to the on/off switch and use a base bolt to secure it to the case?
 
Yes if the switch has a ground screw then just double up or splice another going to motor housing. You are looking to ground the entire lathe and the motor is metal attached to a metal frame so everything in contact will be grounded. #12 is good.
 
Similar to this highly detailed drawing?
jttheclockman said:
Yes if the switch has a ground screw then just double up or splice another going to motor housing. You are looking to ground the entire lathe and the motor is metal attached to a metal frame so everything in contact will be grounded. #12 is good.
Click to expand...
 

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Yes basically what you are looking to do is ground the switch and the motor housing. All other parts of the lathe are connected by mechanical means so they will be grounded. If the switch box is plastic then no need to ground that box but there should be a green screw on the switch unless it is a bat handle toggle switch then it will not have one then ground the box only if it is metal and the motor. The motor needs a ground no matter what. Somehow you have to ground all tools.
 
jttheclockman said:
Yes basically what you are looking to do is ground the switch and the motor housing. All other parts of the lathe are connected by mechanical means so they will be grounded. If the switch box is plastic then no need to ground that box but there should be a green screw on the switch unless it is a bat handle toggle switch then it will not have one then ground the box only if it is metal and the motor. The motor needs a ground no matter what. Somehow you have to ground all tools.
Click to expand...
Got it! The switch is old and the box is metal. I may replace the actual switch.
 

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jttheclockman said:
Make it a 3 prong and just ground the case of the motor.
Click to expand...
Agree - - - but I would add that you should replace the power cord entirely. If its dinosaur-era lamp cord, the insulation has likely dried out enough that its dangerous. Also, its only two conductors, and you would need three. You can buy three-conductor power cable at any decent hardware store. My experience is that you should estimate how long you will need, and then make it twice that long so that you have flexibility to make the location changes you think of later.
 
monophoto said:
Agree - - - but I would add that you should replace the power cord entirely. If its dinosaur-era lamp cord, the insulation has likely dried out enough that its dangerous. Also, its only two conductors, and you would need three. You can buy three-conductor power cable at any decent hardware store. My experience is that you should estimate how long you will need, and then make it twice that long so that you have flexibility to make the location changes you think of later.
Click to expand...
I thought he was doing that. If not that is a good suggestion. Todays wire is superior to years ago.
 
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As mentioned above, I would definitely replace that switch and all the cord. Looks dangerous. Switch contacts could be corroded.
Make sure you are switching the hot side of the 120VAC and not the neutral.

Mike
 
monophoto said:
Agree - - - but I would add that you should replace the power cord entirely. If it's dinosaur-era lamp cord, the insulation has likely dried out enough that it's dangerous. Also, it's only two conductors, and you would need three. You can buy three-conductor power cable at any decent hardware store. My experience is that you should estimate how long you will need, and then make it twice that long so that you have flexibility to make the location changes you think of later.
Click to expand...
I have 8 feet of 12 gauge electrical wiring to replace all the old wires from motor to switch to prong. Nice thick industrial stuff from Ace. Also, a new three prong plug!
 
Back in the 80s we bought a house built in 1910. That wiring reminds me of some of the stuff in the guy's garage when we toured the house.
I was given an old Porter Cable belt sander and it had lamp cord that was cracking. I never plugged it in. Put it on CL as is and got a little cash for it.

Mike
 
Mike said:
Back in the 80s we bought a house built in 1910. That wiring reminds me of some of the stuff in the guy's garage when we toured the house.
I was given an old Porter Cable belt sander and it had lamp cord that was cracking. I never plugged it in. Put it on CL as is and got a little cash for it.

Mike
Click to expand...
Mike,

I wouldn't doubt the lamp cord was from the 60's at least!
I am now thinking of putting a variable speed on it.
 
I upgraded to a variable speed motor for my Jet 1014. I have only turned a few things, a couple pens and a handle for a turning chisel. The motor doesn't even get warm and I have not had it slow down. It is a 900 watt motor. I bought it from:
He has pulleys and other things as well. I kept the original belt and pulleys and I am using positions on each pulley that are very close in diameter, giving me approximately 1:1 drive. Motor speed is adjustable from 300 to 3500 RPM. He has bigger motors as well.
One concern is that this motor has braking and the old one did not. If you are using a faceplate or a chuck, you have to remember to turn the speed down gradually if you dont have a locking screw on the chuck or faceplate as it could spin off if you snap the pot to off quickly.

Mike
 
I have turned a few more pens and a cane since the upgrade. I drill, square and finish all my blanks on the lathe. So far no issues. Motor barely gets warm even when running for extended times.
It does sound like I have a bearing going out in the headstock, but I don't believe it is motor related.

Mike
 
Okay!! The Delta-Milwaukee is finished! I have done some initial testing with the motor.

Here is what has been done:
New headstock bearings
PSI variable speed motor
New quick change tool holder
Digital Read Out.

Slowest speed without potentiometer changes is around 156 RPMs.
I tested the DRO against my Laguna 12/16 and it was 10 rpms.

I already turned some brass stock and it does very nicely!

The only thing I really wish I had was the potential of doing threads. I will get a newer metal lathe eventually.

Now, I have two Shopsmith E10s to fix up. I lucked out because both of them have the original speed reducers!!!
 

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Good for you, You got it going. Does the PSI VS motor have enough power? I have never used a metal lathe, so I don't know the requirements.
It should last a good long time and it was a gift. Very nice. I have a few power tools that I paid little or nothing for, spent some time and a relatively small outlay of cash and they work great.

Mike
 
I think it will have enough power for what I need it to do. It is a 3/4 horsepower motor. Only time will tell. Considering that most metal lathes are gear driven as opposed to belt driven these days, I don't know. The original motor was the big old 1750rpm 3/4 hp single phase motor. It should work fine for majority of metals. Just no giant cuts.
 
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