Deft laquer cure time and buffing question?

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samuel07

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It seems that the recommended cure time for Deft laquer that has been dipped is at least a week. Is the cure time shorter when it is sprayed?

After the laquer has cured is it then ok to buff? I had purchased a slow speed grinder for sharpening so I have one stone wheel and one buffing wheel for the tripoli. Should I not use White diamond powder on the same wheel that has the tripoli on it? I do have another grinder but it is high speed. can I use that grinder for the white diamond?
 
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Sam, lacquer is lacquer so the cure time is the same. You need to have seperate wheels for your buffing compounds. It doesn't take much contamination to screw up a finish that you've been waiting a week on. Now having said that, I buff my lacquer a bit differently. Rather than use my buffer, I put the barrels back on the lathe (using the special bushings that I made for dipping -- these will be lacquer coated and not affect the finish) and buff them by hand with the lathe running. I use old cotton t-shirt material (dedicated pieces for each compound) w/the desired compound on it. I feel I have more control this way.
 
Billy,

Do you buff with tripoli AFTER applying lacquer?

Or, do you just buff with white diamond and (then) wax???

Do you buff between coats? Not including wax?

Sorry, I don't do a lot of wood and I really DON'T know the answers to these questions. But, Deft (and some other lacquers) have worked pretty well for me, so I would like to refine a method.
 
Do a search on "high tech buffer" in the archives.
It would seem to me an old "T" shirt would not be considered the best material on a lathe.
I understand that's what Billy uses but ...
 
Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />Billy,

Do you buff with tripoli AFTER applying lacquer?

Or, do you just buff with white diamond and (then) wax???

Do you buff between coats? Not including wax?

Sorry, I don't do a lot of wood and I really DON'T know the answers to these questions. But, Deft (and some other lacquers) have worked pretty well for me, so I would like to refine a method.
Click to expand...

Ed, I've only used EEE a time or two. I white a white stick of polishing compound that I got at Ace Hardware (it was the finest they had and says it's for precious metals) and I've used it a few times as well. However, what I use most is actually Turtle Wax brand auto buffing (in the green/white tub) compound (NOT rubbing compound). The compound is white and I assume it's similar to white diamond. I use this AFTER using the last three stages of MM.

Early on, I made a system similar to the one that Eagle refers to. No complaints about it other than what I said in my initial post. True, the heavy duty cotton fabric I'm using may not be the best. I would probably be better off using a cotton velour towel like Russ suggests for friction polish. I use this velour fabric for FP and it made a big difference. What I do works for me and as has been said many times... your MPG may vary.

Russ has said a number of times... there is no one "right" way to do much of what we do as pen turners (at least my memory says he has. My most sincere apologies, Russ, if I'm mistaken.). Often, the "right" way turns out to be what is right for us. For example, if 20 of us followed Fangar's CA finishing technique to the letter, we'd get nearly that many different results. Why? Because in spite of our best efforts, something will be different, and often these diffrences (even if minute) will create a different result. So we take someone else's technique and refine it to what works best for us. At least I do.
 
What is the best way to get the bushings off after dipping or spraying. I wrecked two pens on the weekend trying to get the bushings off. [B)] On one I popped them off like previously without problems and the other one I trimmed around the bushing with an exacto knife and in both cases the lacquer chipped on each end of the barrels.
 
Jamie, I've had it happen once or twice. I make sure to clean the lacquer off the dipping bushings between pens and that helps. The exacto method is what I use. Just make sure the blade is very sharp and be very careful. Make the scribe on the bushing side and any chipping should occur off the blank. After removing the bushings, carefully trim the ends with a razor blade. This should give you a clean crisp edge.
 
I wet sand thru the MM on the lathe after a week, Then using Viva papertowels I use a mild polishing compound followed by a glase (both automotive products.. Hey, it is lacquer..) I then follow it with a coat of wax.
 
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