Decals on tubes

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kenlholley

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Apr 15, 2013
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I'm not sure if this is where I should be asking this question or in the casting section.

I am applying decals to painted tubes and then casting them in clear poly resin.
I have been successful as far as bubbles and clarity go but I am having problems with the painted tubes. The decals do not cover the entire tube so some paint is exposed. This is where my problem is. This exposed paint gets an orange peel finish to it. It happens after the resin is poured during the curing. My latest try included sealing the entire tube, with decal applied, with clear coat.
The problem is not as bad, but it still mars the finish.

Any ideas as to how I can seal the painted tube so I don't have this issue?

Thanks,

Ken
 
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Monty

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It sounds like the resin is reacting with the paint. What paint and resin are you using? And how long are you letting the paint cure before you cast?
 

Dalecamino

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Sounds like an interaction between the paint and resin. Here's a thought I had :rolleyes: Instead of using paint, cast your tube in whatever color you want, turn the blank down close to the tube and, apply your decal. Then, cast in clear resin.
 

kenlholley

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I am using Rustolium spray paint and Poly resin from Wood-n-Whimsies. I let the paint dry at least 24 hours. The resin instructions say 8-10 drops of activator per ounce of resin. I use 8.

My next try will be after I seal the tube and decal with a few coats of CA.
 

Dalecamino

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You're going to apply CA to paint and, swipe it? Hope that works for you then, problem will be solved. I had another thought. Try Krylon paint for plastics instead of Rustoleum.
 
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Hopefully I am not hijacking this thread, but....

I just had the same experience- four of five casts had big time reaction with acrylic painted tubes. The exception was a paper covered painted tube that was coated in CA glue first. Now I'm wondering if I need to coat the painted tubes with CA and polish out shiny, then apply decals, coat with CA, then cast in PR? Hopefully this will stop the reaction with the paint. Does this sound like a good plan? Am I putting in too many steps?
 

Curly

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Before you try coating the paint with anything try different ones. Acrylics, art paints, modeling paints, house paint, nail polish. It doesn't matter what. Get some aluminium foil from the kitchen, fold it into a shallow dish and apply the paint in stripes on the bottom. When they are thoroughly dry mix some resin, enough to cover the dish you made, and pour it in and watch the reactions. Those that lift, melt or wrinkle are never used again. The ones that stay put are the ones you work with. Some paint types from one company work but another brand won't even though it's the same family of paint. You'll save a lot of time and frustration by experimenting and get better results rather than doing what you're doing. Also keep in mind that a resin you get from one maker won't always behave like another brand so if you switch resins retest all your paints to make sure nothing changed.
 

Dale Lynch

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Are you wet sanding the paint to smooth before decals and cast.Paint dosn't apply a glass smooth finish,it needs to be rubbed out.The magnification of the clear resin will highlight the unevenness.
 

PapaTim

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This is more of a question and may or may not help. I've seen 2 types of decal paper, clear (which I've used) and white. Would the white cover the tube sufficiently to avoid the need for paint? Then you could leave enough extra paper to cover the entire tube and just cast over that. Has anyone here used the white decal paper?
 
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rd_ab_penman

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Red Deer, Alberta, Canada.
At one time it didn't matter what brand of paint was used with PR there was no reaction with the paint, then approximately 2 years ago PR started reacting with many brands of paint.
A formula change in the manufacturing of PR?

Les
 
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