Decals, clear?

[theidlemind]

So I'm trying to lean how to put decals on pens, wood and acrylic.
Seems like to matter how many tutorials I read (ribanett wrote the one in front of me) I can always see the decal under the ca.
Is It possible to not see the decal at all?

 

[cwolfs69]

yes it is possible. you have to be meticulous with your cleaning prior to applying the decal. I have gotten pretty good with them and have found that a light coat, (2-3 with thin), of CA and smoothed out with mm prior to application works best. then i clean thoroughly with DNA and let dry for at least 30 minutes. then when applying decal you must get all of the air out, and squeegee the water out so that it is perfectly flat on the item. Again let dry thoroughly, i wait about 2 hours. When applying the CA start with 1 or 2 very light passes prior to starting full CA finish. Use plenty of CVA layers on the finish. I always use thin and put about 12 to 15 coats. Then sand, MM as normal. Here is an Exampole of one of my decals. The maple leaf on the flag is a decal. The decal extends about 1/8" all the way around the maple leaf. even with a magnifying glass on the pen i cant find the edges.
Good luck, and remember the most important thing with decals is being meticulous.

 

[DozerMite]

There is a product that claims it makes the edges blend into the surface. I can't remember where I seen it.
I found that the heat generated when applying the CA makes the edges melt in or become invisible. That works for me, but you might find a better way for you.

 

[Dan26]

I do mine a lot like Charley does his, except I use medium CA. After about 8 coats of CA I notice the edges vanishing. After 12 or 15 coats, no more edges.

 

[wouldentu2?]

I found that if I apply a few coats of ca and polish it to a shine and then add the decal I cannot notice the decal

 

[theidlemind]

Thanks guys, I've got lots to learn yet.
Seems like I don't have a good enough surface under my decal, I never even got to the point where I worried about edges yet.
You all do nice work, I'm aiming that high too.
Thanks again.

 

[cwolfs69]

almost forgot. woke in the middle of night. YOU MUST USE DISTILLED OR FILTERED WATER. NO TAP OR SPRING WATER. i use bottled water, but make sure if you do that its filtered, not spring. minerals you know; salt, iron zinc, etc.

Sent from my Galaxi via forerunner

 

[Carl Fisher]

I've had good luck with pretty much the same technique. A few layers of CA FIRST then polish up with MM before applying the decal.

Every 4-5 coats, I'll do a little sanding to help bring the ridge down and prevent any buildup that would allow the edge to leave a profile. Keep this up until any ridges completely polish out and you're good to go.

 

[G1Pens]

almost forgot. woke in the middle of night. YOU MUST USE DISTILLED OR FILTERED WATER. NO TAP OR SPRING WATER. i use bottled water, but make sure if you do that its filtered, not spring. minerals you know; salt, iron zinc, etc.

Sent from my Galaxi via forerunner

Not necissarily true. I do decals a lot and use tap water all the time. It may depend on where you live, but unless you have water with a lot of minerals (I call it oily water) tap water should be fine.

 

[G1Pens]

I've had good luck with pretty much the same technique. A few layers of CA FIRST then polish up with MM before applying the decal.

Every 4-5 coats, I'll do a little sanding to help bring the ridge down and prevent any buildup that would allow the edge to leave a profile. Keep this up until any ridges completely polish out and you're good to go.

+1 on this technique

The key is making sure the decal is laid down smoothly on the blank. Let it dry at least 12 hours to be safe. Any water left in the decal will mess up the CA.

Also, another tip....do not cut out the decal with scissors. Use a very sharp hobby/exacto knife. Believe it or not the scissors tend to leave rough edges that do not lay down smoothly.

Decals like slick surfaces. I always MM my blank all the way to 12000 BEFORE applying the decal. If you are putting them on wood, get it as smooth as possible. A thin CA finish before applying the decal MM's to 12000 is best.

 

[PenMakerWillie]

Don't want to hijack the thread but.. If you're applying the decal onto acrylics, is it necessary to put CA on first? My thoughts are the CA is put on to seal the wood and give a smooth surface for the decal to adhere to. I haven't done any and am going to be applying the decal to an acrylic blank.... Just sand blank smooth, apply, let dry, and CA finish over?

 

[G1Pens]

Don't want to hijack the thread but.. If you're applying the decal onto acrylics, is it necessary to put CA on first? My thoughts are the CA is put on to seal the wood and give a smooth surface for the decal to adhere to. I haven't done any and am going to be applying the decal to an acrylic blank.... Just sand blank smooth, apply, let dry, and CA finish over?

You are correct. Get the acrylic as smooth as possible. Wouldn't hurt to MM quickly through 12000. The slicker the surface the better the decal will adhere to it. CA before the decal is not needed.