Cutting blank

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That little band saw should do the job fine.

I usually cut my blanks to length on the lathe but sometimes I use a little hobbyists bench top table saw (5" blade), or a 6" cut off saw which I got from Princess Auto (but I don't seem to see that on their website any more).
 
After trying a band saw, 12" miter saw, and my table saw, I settled on an inexpensive 7.25" miter saw. Dead on square and big enough for blanks up to 1.5" wide. Quick and easy.
 
Thanks to all of you for your answers!

I already have the Dewalt DWS780 mitre saw 12 inches. But I find it very dangerous to cut blank with it. The fingers are too close to the blade and last time I tried, the blank leave the saw like a bullet...
I think I,ll buy a 9 inches band saw :)
 
I'll cut excess off with a parting tool on the lathe, then sand it up to the tube on a disc sander. I've found a cheap combination belt/disc sander to be indispensable for my pen making, wish I'd bought it way sooner.
 
TheGF3 said:
I'll cut excess off with a parting tool on the lathe, then sand it up to the tube on a disc sander. I've found a cheap combination belt/disc sander to be indispensable for my pen making, wish I'd bought it way sooner.
Click to expand...

When I use my belt sander, wood like purple heart burn... and it becomes impossible to square it with sandbelt machine...
 
Math2010 said:
TheGF3 said:
I'll cut excess off with a parting tool on the lathe, then sand it up to the tube on a disc sander. I've found a cheap combination belt/disc sander to be indispensable for my pen making, wish I'd bought it way sooner.
Click to expand...

When I use my belt sander, wood like purple heart burn... and it becomes impossible to square it with sandbelt machine...
Click to expand...


Coarser grit and more patience. Crepe rubber belt cleaner helps.

Burning is too much heat that comes from too much pressure. The abrasive clogs and you get more heat. Worn out abrasive compounds the heating.
 
Math2010 said:
Thanks to all of you for your answers!

I already have the Dewalt DWS780 mitre saw 12 inches. But I find it very dangerous to cut blank with it. The fingers are too close to the blade and last time I tried, the blank leave the saw like a bullet...
I think I,ll buy a 9 inches band saw :)
Click to expand...


Miter saw can be safe but you need to build an auxilary jig with hold downs to keep things in place and fingers out of the way. Segmented woodturners cut small pieces with great consistency with an auxilary table and zero clearance back board.
 
I use an 18 volt 7 1/4 inch Ryobi miter saw with a Freud 60 tooth blade. It gives me cuts that are almost smooth as glass. It only cost $99 and weight 15 pounds.
 
Your 9" band saw is nearly identical to my HF saw. I made a small sled with an adjustable stop and it works beautifully. I have a 12" band saw but the little 9" sits nicely next to my lathe. It is quick, accurate and convenient.
 
I lay the tube on the blank making sure the ends are flush. Then I take a fine sharpie and draw a line along the other end of the tube on the blank. Then I stick it in my vice and use a small saw to cut it. I get very accurate cuts that way.
 
Math2010 said:
Hello !

I'm just curious to know what you use to cut your blank to the tube lenght. I use my scroll saw but my god it's hard to have a straight cut. Do, all of you, using a band saw? Maybe I'll by a small one (like that one: https://www.tooltown.ca/King-Canada-KC-902C-2-amp-9-inch-Wood-Bandsaw-with-Laser.html )

Thanks for your advices
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Don't need a straight cut. If it is close, that is fine.

Drill, glue in the tube, and you will mill/cut/sand it to the tube end in any fashion you prefer.

For me, I like to turn it well above the bushing, but about 1/16" proud. Then using a Rick Herrell sanding jig (or other as you prefer), sand the ends down to the tube, then finish the profile. No need to sand the ends at the beginning, as that will be sanding a 1/2" blank - wait until you are closer to the bushing dimensions (a wee bit extra) before you sand the ends flush.

Have FUN!
 
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Woodchipper said:
I use the Woodcraft pen mill set. I do trim a bit on the bandsaw first then use the pen mill.
Click to expand...

I use pen mill set too. It's just that I prefered to cut straight before using it (It produces so much smoke when using it). I finally bought the 9 inches Bandsaw. Took me one hour and a half to install the ... blade, but now it works fine!
 
SWAG portaband table saw with a few jigs.

http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Portaband-Tables-Accessories_c_35.html

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Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app
 
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Math2010 said:
Woodchipper said:
I use the Woodcraft pen mill set. I do trim a bit on the bandsaw first then use the pen mill.
Click to expand...

I use pen mill set too. It's just that I prefered to cut straight before using it (It produces so much smoke when using it). I finally bought the 9 inches Bandsaw. Took me one hour and a half to install the ... blade, but now it works fine!
Click to expand...

Are you saying your pen mill smokes when using it? If that is the case then something is wrong. It probably needs sharpening and you are probably pressing to hard (because it isn't sharp).
 
JimB said:
Math2010 said:
Woodchipper said:
I use the Woodcraft pen mill set. I do trim a bit on the bandsaw first then use the pen mill.
Click to expand...

I use pen mill set too. It's just that I prefered to cut straight before using it (It produces so much smoke when using it). I finally bought the 9 inches Bandsaw. Took me one hour and a half to install the ... blade, but now it works fine!
Click to expand...

Are you saying your pen mill smokes when using it? If that is the case then something is wrong. It probably needs sharpening and you are probably pressing to hard (because it isn't sharp).
Click to expand...

Indeed, I'm pressing hard on my drill press because the wood is really hard (purple heart, Amazonia pal,...) and it produces smoke and the wood (so the pen mills) becomes really hot. How can I sharpened it?
 
Pen mills that I have are high carbon steel. One has carbide inserts brazed onto it, the rest are ground steel.

High carbon steel loses hardness and ability to keep an edge with temperatures that cause smoke and leave burn marks. Your pen mill is probably annealed (softened) and is unlikely to hold an edge.

Sharpening with diamond credit card slips is covered in lots of youtube videos. Craft Supply USA has a good one on their web site.

By the way, purple heart is dense, but by no means is it the hardest of woods.
 
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This link is from the library for sharpening a pen mill. Sharpening a mill only takes a minute or two but yours may take longer as it sounds like you are well past the point when you should have sharpened it. I sharpen mine about every 5 pens, before it starts to feel dull. If it starts to feel dull then it is tearing the wood instead of giving nice clean cuts to square the blank. I use a cordless drill in one hand and hold the blank in my other, gloved, hand. Light pressure and let the cutter do the work.

http://www.penmakersguild.com/articles/penmillsharpening1.pdf
 
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