Cutting Acrylics and Plastics

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Rojo22

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Anyone ever used a tile saw, or a wet saw to cut the plastics we use? I know several people use bandsaws, but I was wondering if the wet saws help with the heat.
 
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Ed Brown (Ed4copies) can give you a lot of valuable info on this. Unfortunately, he won't be back to the forum until Monday. You might send him an email.
 
cutting plastic poly resin or acrylic with a diamond blade will clog the blade, which actually makes it act dull, you can clean some of the stuff off by cutting an old brick, I do mean old from before the 40s even cutting into an old silicon carbide grinding wheel just a bit though. The true stone is 85% rock, it’s the plastic that literally GUMS things up (not much pun intended)
Ken Ferrell
 
Cutting small pieces like pen blanks shouldn't present any heat problems. I've used a table saw, miter saw , bandsaw with wood and metal blades and have never had a problem. Now drilling, that's a whole different ballgame.
 
I have not had any problems with heat when cutting P.R. blanks. Is your blade very fine toothed? I use a 4 tooth per inch.
 
For cutting sheets of acrylic I use a cheap 7-1/4" 140 tooth blade in the tablesaw. The writing on the blade says it's good for OSB, Plywood, veneers, plastics and cellotex. All I can say is that it works great for me.
 
It sounds like lots of people use the saws to cut a blank in half the short way, but I am looking to do some laminate, crazy stuff with smaller pieces. I have seen a hookup that allows water to be used in a scroll saw, and I will play with that, but I was looking for a way to slice thin pieces length wise down a pen blank without the gumming and heating issue. Some of the plastics you can actually get some melting with a hand miter saw.
 
I cut plastic in every direction known to mankind - acrylic sheets that are one inch thick are particularly interesting.

Wetsaws work and are VERY messy. Tablesaws work for a while, then the blade gets bent and it is scary. Scroll saw blades are very fine and the plastic will melt back together as it passes through, so it is NOT really cut. So, without knowing just what you want to do, I can't tell you HOW to best do it.

I now cut most of the slabs with my bandsaw, 3 teeth per inch - 80 inch blade, replace blade often, but I wouldn't want to cut thin pieces, cause I LIKE my FINGERS attached and complete!!!
 
If you just want to cut a .25 or .125 inch piece, 5 to 6 inches long, I would use the bandsaw (and a fence, of course) and a 6-10 tooth per inch blade, at LEAST a quarter inch wide, half inch is GREAT (avoid deflection of the blade). Zero tolerance insert on blade "hole". Cut one piece, turn off saw, wait for blade to cool before cutting again or the blade will get hot and sticky creating more difficulties.

If I am misreading your intent, say so and I will try again!!
 
Originally posted by Larry Gottlieb
<br />I cut 1/8" thick slices of corian from a 3/4" blank using a sled on the bandsaw with a 1/4" 4 tpi blade. No excess heat.

Larry
http://webpages.charter.net/lgottlieb2/
Click to expand...

Corian is not as "sticky" as plastics, so this is really apples and oranges, but the blade should work on acrylics - celluloids could have some problems. Of course, if your bandsaw blade is longer, it will cool itself better than one that is shorter - so not all bandsaws are created equal.

MOST IMPORTANT: IF it WORKS for YOU, keep it up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![:D][:D]
 
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