Parson
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I'm thinking of buying this crown moulding system so I don't mess it up totally like I've done in the past.
Does anyone have any real world experience with this system to give me some idea if it's worth the $150?
Curtis, that certainly is an interesting idea! However, the miter saw I am using is borrowed and I'm confident the owner will not be happy if I CA glue anything to it, even if I sand it off when I'm done. He's really picky about his equipment.
Curtis, you might as well give up, he just is not interested in anything except that darn blue jig. Let him go ahead and waste his money on a piece of crap that is guaranteed to not do what he thinks it will. Like you stated, if both ends are mitered, a gap will open, always has always will. Just the nature of the beast. You have been extremely helpful and even gone way out of your way to offer your best professional advice to no avail. I, for one, do appreciate your hints of the CA for the temp fence on the saw bed. That will come in mighty handy. Thank you.
Charles
I will disagree with part of that statement about a mitered joint will always open up. How do you do window or door casings??? Do you miter the corners or do you plinth block them??? I have 45 degree mitered all my oak moldings in my house and to date none have seperated. I did take the time to biscuit join the miters and have been happy ever since. Takes no more time than getting that perfect fit mitering. I found when doing this the Lion Miter trimmer is a well worthwhile investment to sweeten a joint and sneek up on the exact measurement.
Well said Curtis.Yep, blocking is used on all jobs I do crown on. I screw the blocking directly to the top plate with long screws and suck it up tight. Then it is just a matter of nailing with my choice of nailer and not having to worry about trying to hit joists or studs.
I will disagree with part of that statement about a mitered joint will always open up. How do you do window or door casings??? Do you miter the corners or do you plinth block them??? I have 45 degree mitered all my oak moldings in my house and to date none have seperated. I did take the time to biscuit join the miters and have been happy ever since. Takes no more time than getting that perfect fit mitering. I found when doing this the Lion Miter trimmer is a well worthwhile investment to sweeten a joint and sneek up on the exact measurement.
John,
Both of us were talking specifically about inside corners in crown molding, not door or window trim. I still stand behind the statement that 100% of mitered inside CROWN molding will open up sooner or later. It is just a matter of physics including wood movement and house movement.
Door and window trim is a completely different type of miter with the molding laying flat. Even door and window trim will crack at the miter if nothing is done to it. You mentioned using biscuits. That works fine with casing but will not work with crown or base, obviously. When I do casing work with a profile, I do not use biscuits and never have failure but I do use plenty of glue on the joints.
Actually, the last 3 houses I have trimmed have all had plain 1x4 door and window casing. the joints were butt joints in the craftsman style. Instead of just butting it together with glue, I actually make up the entire assembly on the job bench using pocket screws and glue and then install it as one piece with absolute perfect surface alignment and no cracks on the painted trim.