Custom Finial Question

[Todd in PA]

Hi!

I've made custom finials before. Just a few. I just take the extra cutoff, hot glue it to a 1" dowel, and get to work. In order to avoid having end grain at the top of my pen, I turn it 90 degrees to glue it. But this pen, desert ironwood, would splinter when the carbide touched the end grain. After three catches, the glue broke. I reglued it, end grain out. End grain finished darker, so not a great match.

Any suggestions on this for next time?

 

[showcaser]

Todd I like it. If you think about it its the way the wood would look if it were continuing to run through the metal part of the finial.

 

[JohnU]

I glue mine using 2 part epoxy and let it cure one day before turning. I've never had a problem with it not holding.

 

[duncsuss]

I turn it 90 degrees to glue it. But this pen, desert ironwood, would splinter when the carbide touched the end grain.
[...]
Any suggestions on this for next time?

So in that orientation, you are turning the wood as "face-grain" which is typical for turning bowls (as opposed to side-grain which is typical for spindles and pens).

The important thing is to present the tool as if you were turning a bowl - you have to start with the tool at the center and move out towards the sides, in order to ensure there is support under the wood fibers as you are cutting them.

Personally I think you'd be much better off using a sharp spindle gouge or bowl gouge instead of a carbide tool, floating the bevel through the arc slices through the grain instead of tearing at it.

But if you want to continue using a carbide tool - start with the handle parallel to the bed of the lathe, and instead of coming in from the side as you normally would, push towards the headstock. Once the outer shape is defined, you can begin on center and swing the handle towards you to create the smooth curve of the dome.

 

[TDahl]

I use 2 part epoxy as well and only use a round carbide to turn down the diameter. I use a file to shape the crown of the finial. It is easier to control and you get better detail in the shape of the finial.

 

[Todd in PA]

So in that orientation, you are turning the wood as "face-grain" which is typical for turning bowls (as opposed to side-grain which is typical for spindles and pens).

The important thing is to present the tool as if you were turning a bowl - you have to start with the tool at the center and move out towards the sides, in order to ensure there is support under the wood fibers as you are cutting them.

Personally I think you'd be much better off using a sharp spindle gouge or bowl gouge instead of a carbide tool, floating the bevel through the arc slices through the grain instead of tearing at it.

But if you want to continue using a carbide tool - start with the handle parallel to the bed of the lathe, and instead of coming in from the side as you normally would, push towards the headstock. Once the outer shape is defined, you can begin on center and swing the handle towards you to create the smooth curve of the dome.

Thank you Duncan. I was sure that there was a right way to be able to do this. I'll come at it from the end next time.

 

[Todd in PA]

QUICK TIP
If you leave a stem on your finial button, you can use a drill to hang onto it, and spin it to polish it in seconds. I made it small enough to fit through the hole in the center of the clip assembly, and shortened it up with a dremel after polishing.

 

[duncsuss]

Thank you Duncan. I was sure that there was a right way to be able to do this. I'll come at it from the end next time.

I forgot to mention, it's easier if you set the toolrest at an angle. That will let you sweep the handle around in an arc without the shaft getting too close to parallel to the top of the rest, which is kind of unstable.

 

[mark james]

I have sanded the entire finial process when I didn't want to ruin several hours of segmenting .