Curve Inlays

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I think this is the one, but might be wrong. My computer is so slow.
http://content.penturners.org/articles/2006/segpenblanks.pdf
there's a few other options that it could be..you'll find them all in the library index under segpenblanks.
The one I'm talking about is using regular veneers, but it is the exact same thing. It's all in the layout. I assume Keith is using a scrollsaw, but it can be done with a thin small bandsaw blade..but the bandsaw blade doesn't do tight curves as well and you can lose extra kerf in the turns, so I'm gambling he scrolls them.
You want to mark the center of your blank on two sides. Then measure the width of your tubes...go with the smaller width if you want the waves to stay on the blank. The pdf gets you started, what Keith is doing is a bit more complex because he is doing an actual pattern he has created. Probably made himself a template so that the curves where the same on both sides and unravelled at the top. You cut the same pattern in each side and it will show up on all four sides of the pen. If the "veneer" angles out about 1/16" beyond the side of the tube, it will result in a curve around the pens outside...that's the unravelling part. If you run another line across the blank to join those two outer lines that left the blank, your going to curve back the other way giving you a sort of a flower effect. The veneer or aluminum needs to be the same thickness as the blade you cut with. When I do it, I cut one curvy line, glue in the veneer or metal which re-assembles the blank and then when it's dry go back and cut the next line. Otherwise you end up with piles of pieces to figure out where they go and if they don't go exactly back where and how they came out it doesn't work out. It's time consuming. Play with the tutorial and some scraps of veneer to get a feel for how the lines behave when turned..it's a lot of fun and the variations are limitless.
 
Kyle, the cuts are made freehand with a scrollsaw. The article Jeff pointed to is a great start.

Technically, because the cuts are through cuts, the aluminum is not an inlay but a segment. With "Unravelled" I have a pattern that I tape to two sides of the blank. There are a total of 8 cuts with a glue up between each cut. It is not terribly difficult, just time consuming, although cut # 8 does seem to have a bit more pressure associated with it than cut # 1 :wink:

One of the keys to this and many types of segmenting is to match the kerf of your blade to the thickness of the material you are inserting. Basically what you take out you need to replace. In that pen I use 30 gauge aluminum which is 0.010" thick and so I use a scroll saw blade which is 0.011" thick (the difference of 0.001" is not really noticeable :smile: )

I'm guessing though that your question is more to do with the shape of the cuts. A segmented layer through a square blank can look very different once the blank is turned round. The way I developed most of my patterns was to make cuts in what I thought would be a nice pattern and then turn them round. Along with the occasional pleasant surprise there were many "well that didn't turn our the way I thought it would" moments. After a while you start to get a feel for what things will look like once they are turned round.

I don't know if I've answered your question or not. Hopefully I've at least given you some food for thought. I find the journey is often more enjoyable than the destination.
 
SRB said:
Keith, out of curiosity, what brand scrollsaw do you use?
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Steve, I wish I could answer that with I have a Hawk or a Hegner or an Excalibur, but I just have a little Dremmel. One of these days I'd like to upgrade to a DeWalt but that probably won't happen anytime soon.
 
Keith, just wanted to say, Im very impressed with your pen / scroll work. I started out scrolling about 20 years ago making intarsia and small crafts but shifted my interest to pens about a year and a half ago. Im hoping, when time permits, to expand and try some of your ideas. You are a Master and very inspiring! Thanks for sharing.
 
Keith and Jeff,

Thanks for the notes. Your pens are gorgeous! I'll hope to get in the shop this week and give it a try. One question though . . . how is the aluminum on your tools? Does it tear them up?

Thanks,
Kyle

VisExp said:
Kyle, the cuts are made freehand with a scrollsaw. The article Jeff pointed to is a great start.

Technically, because the cuts are through cuts, the aluminum is not an inlay but a segment. With "Unravelled" I have a pattern that I tape to two sides of the blank. There are a total of 8 cuts with a glue up between each cut. It is not terribly difficult, just time consuming, although cut # 8 does seem to have a bit more pressure associated with it than cut # 1 :wink:

One of the keys to this and many types of segmenting is to match the kerf of your blade to the thickness of the material you are inserting. Basically what you take out you need to replace. In that pen I use 30 gauge aluminum which is 0.010" thick and so I use a scroll saw blade which is 0.011" thick (the difference of 0.001" is not really noticeable :smile: )

I'm guessing though that your question is more to do with the shape of the cuts. A segmented layer through a square blank can look very different once the blank is turned round. The way I developed most of my patterns was to make cuts in what I thought would be a nice pattern and then turn them round. Along with the occasional pleasant surprise there were many "well that didn't turn our the way I thought it would" moments. After a while you start to get a feel for what things will look like once they are turned round.

I don't know if I've answered your question or not. Hopefully I've at least given you some food for thought. I find the journey is often more enjoyable than the destination.
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StatProf said:
how is the aluminum on your tools? Does it tear them up?
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Not as bad as the brass does :wink: :biggrin:

Joking aside, any tools you use to cut wood with can be used to cut brass or aluminum. I've noticed no adverse effect on the tools I use at the lathe. The little scrollsaw blades take a hammering though. I typically change my blade after ever second cut. So a scrollsaw blade lasts me about 12" of cutting.
 
VisExp said:
Not as bad as the brass does :wink: :biggrin:

...I typically change my blade after ever second cut. So a scrollsaw blade lasts me about 12" of cutting.
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I am assuming that is with the aluminum. How long would the same blade last in the same size blank with just wood to cut. Seriously. I am new to scroll sawing an want to learn.
 
Kirk, I honestly don't know the answer to your question. I am also new to scroll sawing. The only thing I've ever cut on my scroll saw is a pen blank. I think typically scrollers work with thinner woods, 1/8" to 1/4". Obviously the first cut I make is just through wood but any subsequent cuts would be through wood/aluminum or wood/brass.

Jeff or one of the other scrollers would probably be able to answer your question better than I. Scoll saw blades are very cheap and to my mind it is worth changing them often as soon as I feel they're not cutting well.
 
Keith - Having seen a few of your pens on here, this thread makes me really want to get into scroll sawing as well. Of course I'm going to concentrate on getting better at making pens first!
 
Which blades you using Kevin? I just ordered some more blades, and noticed a new one so I bought a pack to see what it was. Heavy duty for super hard thick wood...boy these blades look like they might be able to take a finger! I buy my blades from mikesworkshop and find the quality of those blades to last a bit longer than others.
 
rjwolfe3 said:
wow new to scroll sawing and you can make works of art just like that???!!!!!
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When many people look at one of Keith's blanks or one of my blanks, they are very intimidated. Both of our styles are inter-related, and both styles are extremely easy to do. You don't need fancy equipment, you just need some imagination, and lots of patience. I'm just finishing up on an article for a magazine, trying to show just how simple it is and that you don't hardly even need experience on the scrollsaw to do it. The intimidation factor is because everything is an illusion. When I look at Keith's pen, I immediately see how he did it, a wave to here then there then out the side. Simple. I look at mine..he split it, cut it, glued it back together, not it's different on both or all sides, simple. Then, we put a shiny finish on it and for me anyhow I start talking about how check this out..the star on this side and that angle then randomly up there, never coming out the backside, so complicated...and the whole thing only took 2 hrs to do! The hardest part for me, and I'm sure for Keith too, is drilling the hole straight dead down the center. If your off a hair one side or the other, it throws everything out of whack.
 
Lol you are talking to the only guy who can't cut a straight line with a table saw. Took me 4 hours to set up my bandsaw and I still can't cut a straight line with that either.:biggrin:
 
Little baby DREMEL Scrollsaw!!!!!!??????:eek:

Wow Keith, I figured you had an all singing all dancing top of the range machine!!!. You and Jeff really do have my respect for the steady hands that you have:cool:
 
not sure if this will help but i use metal scrollsaw blades from sloans www.sloanswoodshop.com to cut a blank laminated with metal.

i use olson #9 PGT blades for wood and plastic blanks. i resharpen them on the saw with a diamond nail file and extend their use a lot. i have used the metal blades on 1/2" aluminum and different thicknesses of wood. they will last quite awhile and leave a smooth cut...........have a good one....bear
 
kirkfranks said:
I am assuming that is with the aluminum. How long would the same blade last in the same size blank with just wood to cut. Seriously. I am new to scroll sawing an want to learn.
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Kirk, Ive used a scroll saw for about 15 years. A blades life depends on a few things, mostly being how thick and hard the material being cut is. Some woods are harder than others. Thickness adds to heat and how hot the blade gets, causing them to dull, stretch, and break. You will know when your blades are wearing down by how slow you are cutting and by how you will start to burn the wood in the cut.
 
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