CSUSA Jr Statesman Ctr Coupler Question

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RDH79

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I have tried to disassemble a couple jr Retros and a Jr statesman with serious out comes. I break the plastic part of the ctr coupler. I was wondering if shorting the plastic part would help. Does this piece have to be this long? Does anyone else do this? I have 2 kits that are worthless because of the broken plastic part. I called CSUSA but they do not have this piece available.
 

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when disassembling, knock the finial out. Then push the plastic piece out through the finial opening, then punch the centerband out. As long as you cleaned the tubes out good before assembly, it shouldn't be too difficult to push through.
 
Advice given to me, lubricate it with vaseline before installing, that way if dissassembly is needed it is easier. I myself usually shorten the tube as you have suggested, but you will still find it hard to shift.
I believe (this is my opinion only) that the plastic is put there so that the pen centres (Aussie spelling) itself and there is less strain on the cheap plastic threads., I think if it was all metal thread it probably would hold itself quite well and you wouldn't need the long plastic guide, wouldn't mind hearing other explanations if there are any. Amos:smile:
 
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Metal threads have a tendency to scratch the nib and they do not hold well. The plastic inserts do hold better and don't scratch.

Oh, and the extended plastic section it probably there to protect the nib from being scratched when screwed together.
 
Russianwolf said:
when disassembling, knock the finial out. Then push the plastic piece out through the finial opening, then punch the centerband out. As long as you cleaned the tubes out good before assembly, it shouldn't be too difficult to push through.
Click to expand...

Mike; I'm curious if there is actually any advantage in this method vs using a snug fitting punch to dislodge the centerband and insert together? Seems to me that pushing up on the insert is much more likely to damage the much thinner end at the threads, even though you are only pushing against the resistance of the insert itself sliding the length of the tube, rather than unseating the metal to metal press fit of the centerband. The insert seems like it would be much more able to withstand compression along it's axis over the full circumference than pressure against the relatively delicate threaded end. In any case the precision of fit between the punch and the inside of the brass tube (or the ID of the centerband) is absolutely critical! If you don't have a nice tight fitting punch, Make one rather than try a looser fit.

Depending on what type of kit was damaged, it might be worth it to pick up the cheapest, gold plated rb kit to scavenge the insert out of. I would much rather lose a 24k RB jr gent than a Jr statesman or jr Emperor.

I know one thing, I'm not going to try it unless absolutely necessary! I don't like killing kits.

James
 
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toolcrazy said:
Metal threads have a tendency to scratch the nib and they do not hold well. The plastic inserts do hold better and don't scratch.

Oh, and the extended plastic section it probably there to protect the nib from being scratched when screwed together.[/quote]

That's what I have been told as well and it makes sense. Actually a lot of rollerball kits don't have that extra sleeve, just the fountain kits. So, if you are making a rollerball kit I don't see any harm in removing the extra sleeve.

Do you have a set of transfer punches? Probably the best investment I made when making a lot of kits was to buy the cheap $8 or $9 Harbor Freight set. Holding onto a blank with the appropriate punch inside and tapping (slamming, banging and pounding) it on the workbench usually dissasembled any kit.
Click to expand...
 
jskeen said:
Mike; I'm curious if there is actually any advantage in this method vs using a snug fitting punch to dislodge the centerband and insert together? Seems to me that pushing up on the insert is much more likely to damage the much thinner end at the threads, even though you are only pushing against the resistance of the insert itself sliding the length of the tube, rather than unseating the metal to metal press fit of the centerband. The insert seems like it would be much more able to withstand compression along it's axis over the full circumference than pressure against the relatively delicate threaded end. In any case the precision of fit between the punch and the inside of the brass tube (or the ID of the centerband) is absolutely critical! If you don't have a nice tight fitting punch, Make one rather than try a looser fit.

Depending on what type of kit was damaged, it might be worth it to pick up the cheapest, gold plated rb kit to scavenge the insert out of. I would much rather lose a 24k RB jr gent than a Jr statesman or jr Emperor.

I know one thing, I'm not going to try it unless absolutely necessary! I don't like killing kits.

James
Click to expand...
I've had major problems trying to knock them out as a unit. since the two pieces overlap it compresses and causes a wedge effect, making it harder to remove without damaging. At least this is what my gut says is happening.

Now, on some of my pens, a Jr. Gent that I use regularly being the one I'm thinking of at the moment, If you just get the first thread started while capping the pen you can literally push the insert up inside the cap. that's how loose it is going the other way. At least this is my experience.

I too am not going to try it just because I'm curious.:tongue:

Edit: okay, I tried pushing the sleeve up in a Jr. Statesman that I have with me. Now the cap won't screw on until I get it home and push it back down. :redface:Sliding the insert out once the finial is removed is very easy.
 
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You two are crazy.

But good info to have. Actually, having given it some thought, I have a jr gent that I do need to break up to fix a cracked hippo ivory cap. I've been putting it off just cause I don't really want to mess with the ivory, but this may be the solution to my problem. I will report my results as well.

wish me luck!
 
James Thats what I am going to do. Get a cheap kit.

George, I have the transfer punch set. but i still broke the plastic. I punched out the clip part then I should have punched out the metal section first then the plastic.

I will know better the next time
Thanks for the info
 
The Jr statesman has the one of best coupler bush just my thoughts, also l would think you would loose your warranty if you cut the bush, as for a knock tool I like too use the metal kit trimming bush with a long center punch going up through the trim bush hole then with a grip mat wrapped around the blank, grip the blank and tap tap on a small steel block also don't forget to put some tape under the clip too stop any damage to the blank:wink::biggrin:
 
I've never had any success getting that plastic piece out with a transfer
punch, so I usually lose the blank to save the kit. I cut the tube (blank
and all) up the side toward the center coupling. After a few snips the blank
can be pulled away. Then I 'peel' the brass tube off of the plastic sleeve.

The transfer punch can really mangle that sleeve, and even if you get it
out, it might or might not allow the cap to fit on the pen again.

If I was smart, I'd make a "Jr Statesman Plastic Sleeve Removal Tool"
.. put the appropriate thread on some drill rod. I think it would be easier
to remove the sleeve by engaging the threads than by forcing it out from
the ends.

Also like Amos' idea of lubricating that sleeve before assembly.
 
Guys,

Last night I had to move one of those plastic tubes. Grabbed a "spring hook tool", and pushed on the side of the plastic, almost at the top, slid it out the top of the cap. Had to change sides a couple times, but the whole process was pretty uneventful.

A "spring hook tool" is like a dental tool, kinda. Has a three quarter "U" shape at the end. This way, I never touched the threads, and I was putting pressure where the plastic was thickest.

Just a thought.
 
Great info, I have removed several sleves using a transfer punch which barely fit in the tube. I have never damaged a sleve beyond use, but it takes a lot of pounding with a heavy plastic hammer. Just can't wait until I have to remove the next one to try the finial approach :)
 
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