Corian ?

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rjwolfe3

rjwolfe3

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I glued up a blank, good side to good side with CA and then clamped it for a day or two. I then drilled it perfect down the middle. I glued the tube in with two part epoxy and let that sit for a day or two. I cleaned it up with an end mill and then put it on the lathe. Lightly touched it with my Woodchuck and BLAM, one half one direction, the other the other direction leaving the tube still turning. Anyone have any idea what I did wrong? I checked all surfaces and they all seem to have even glue coverage and it was not a catch with the tool. Everything I read said to use CA to glue pieces together so I have no idea why it came apart so easily. Very frustrated because I am trying to turn some for the troops but I didn't realize that Corian segments were so fragile. Any advice you all can share would be appreciated.:smile:
 
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I clean the good surface with acetone. Then, I rough up the surface with sandpaper before I glue Corian together. I use medium CA and clamp for a day or so.

Never had one blow apart.

I have not tried turning corian with my woodchuck. It is more agressive than a gouge.
 
I make pens regularly with corian, never had one come apart. I glue the smooth surfaces together with medium c a clamp it for about 15 minutes and drill it, glue in the tube with ca, put it on the lathe and turn to desired size. Make sure you rough up the tube then be sure to cover the tube liberally with ca, this helps to hold the corian together tight.
 
I've used corian a bunch. I make sure the joining surfaces are clean and flush, use medium CA and my 4" vise/clamp to make sure the pressure is even along the length. I tighten the clamp - but stop when I see the glue starting to come out. I (not by choice) usually leave it in there a few days (. . . forget. )

Only once did I have that happen - when I tried to dril and turn it the same day.
 
I'm confused, some of you are saying to scuff it and some are saying don't scuff it. If I scuff it will I see the glue line more then if I don't scuff it? And should I not use 2part epoxy to glue the blank in?
 
I've lost them in drilling and lost them on the lathe. Some hold, some don't. I think that preparing the surface with sanding and acetone helps. I've had success and failure with both CA and epoxy. Gluing in the tube should add some stregnth, CA or epoxy for the tube should not make much difference, use whichever you prefer.

What does work every time is to make the pen out of a single thickness of corian. You have to drill carefully, you can't use a single thickness for thicker pens, but there is no glue line to come apart.
 
Thanks for all the help. I was really frustrated yesterday with this. These are going to be segmented pens for the troops with the red, white, and blue Corian from Wolftat. The blue turned beautifully with my Woodchuck but it was all one piece. I will try to glue some more up and see how it turns out. This time I may round the corners with the sander. It was interesting in that every surface has a good coating of glue including the tube and all sides of the Corian. Maybe my CA is going bad?
 
I "Scuff" it, but not with 60 grit or anything, I use 220 grit or so and have never seen it leave much (if any) of a noticeable glue line, especially when using different colors. I have used several different glues, med ca works best for me. You know how ca goes, million ways to use it, what works for some won't for others. :wink:
rjwolfe3 said:
I'm confused, some of you are saying to scuff it and some are saying don't scuff it. If I scuff it will I see the glue line more then if I don't scuff it? And should I not use 2part epoxy to glue the blank in?
Click to expand...
 
I usually wet-sand (with 220 wet-dry paper on a piece of flat glass) the two good faces .. this will keep the faces 'flat' .. medium CA, gently clamped for "a while" (hours / overnight) .. knock corners off on belt sander "just because" ..
 
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