Connecting a tool to a handle

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LizardSpit

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In a different thread I saw this quote:

"On the other hand, my Woodchuck Pen Pro carbide insert cutter is so worn that it could really use a new handle (I'm really regretting epoxying on the existing handle)."… "I make my own parting tools from Lennox reciprocating saw blades." - PenMan1 (Andy Little)

I just bought a Woodchuck Unitool. I had planned on epoxying the shtuffing out of it. Is there a better plan for connecting a tool to a handle?

PS. Andy would you share instructions for creating the parting tool you mentioned?
 
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In a different thread I saw this quote:

"On the other hand, my Woodchuck Pen Pro carbide insert cutter is so worn that it could really use a new handle (I'm really regretting epoxying on the existing handle)."… "I make my own parting tools from Lennox reciprocating saw blades." - PenMan1 (Andy Little)

I just bought a Woodchuck Unitool. I had planned on epoxying the shtuffing out of it. Is there a better plan for connecting a tool to a handle?

PS. Andy would you share instructions for creating the parting tool you mentioned?

Epoxy works well.....Too well, I like very short handle (4 inch) on my WoodChuck (of course, I figured this out AFTER I had permanently attached the 10 inch handle). I can "chuck up" and turn off the old handle brass ferrel and then clean about half a gallon of 30 minute epoxy from the tool shank.

THE MORAL OF THIS STORY IS TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE COMFORTABLE WITH HANDLE LENGTH, WEIGHT, BALANCE BEFORE FINAL EPOXY MOUNT.

Funny story: I actually put about a pound of weight on the rear of the handle. In the summer, I like to turn in flops and drink beer. The weight was a failed effort to keep the "Chuck" from falling razor edge first. A falling wood chuck with a 4"" handle will cut a flip flop in half and make other body parts shrink to whole new levels as it passes by.)

In all seriousness. MAKE SURE YOU ARE HAPPY WITH THE HANDLE LENGTH, And that you can comfortably use the tool before making permanent revisions.

I'll try to post how to make a prison shiv parting knife tonight!
 
epoxy is by no means permant. i have changed out several handles without damage to the tool or the handle. epoxy will fail (release) at about 165 degrees. i heat the tool over a gas stove briefly then grab the tool with a pair of pliers and twist it out of the handle without damaging either item
 
epoxy is by no means permant. i have changed out several handles without damage to the tool or the handle. epoxy will fail (release) at about 165 degrees. i heat the tool over a gas stove briefly then grab the tool with a pair of pliers and twist it out of the handle without damaging either item

Bob:
Either I don't know how to use a Mapp gas torch, or Monty's EZ Bond 30 minute expoxy is stronger than the stuff you are using:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:.

I been futzing with this thing trying to remove the handle for nearly a week.

Seriously, thanks for the twist tip! I'll bet YOU even take the cutter blade off before attempting this, too! Tongue firmly planted in cheek!:biggrin:
 
I use a 'press' fit on the tools that I provide. No need for epoxy to keep a nice tight fit if you drill correctly. Given that the carbide does the work, a glued handle may not be necessary and is therefore much easier to change out as desired.
 
Got my chuck pen pro, and was thinking of using the stuff to swell up chair rungs. Chair doctor is one brand. Put some in the rings and push it in.
If you can't get the handle off the last resort could be either a mallet and flat chisel, or hand saw the handle at an angle!
:clown:
 
I turn my own handles, turn a <1" tenon on the end, epoxy a 1" copper plumbing coupler around the tenon, then drill a deep hole for the tool to socket into.

To mechanically attached the inserted tool (bar or rod) to the handle, I just drill & tap through the side of the tenon/copper -- screw in a #10-24 machine screw.

*EDIT*
Huge picture ... sorry, won't insert this.
Click to see:
http://i.imgur.com/8AJnU.jpg
 
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I use a 'press' fit on the tools that I provide. No need for epoxy to keep a nice tight fit if you drill correctly. Given that the carbide does the work, a glued handle may not be necessary and is therefore much easier to change out as desired.

DAMNED! FINALLY, the voice of reason!

I was so "Geeked Up" with my new tool that I couldn't WAIT to glue it up and the USE IT UP.

You are exactly correct, HAD I WAITED until I had set the tool EXACTLY the way I wanted it BEFORE I EPOXIED into into perfectly drilled hole that the MFG provided, I would have been better served!

OK! NOW ON TO reality! WE ARE ALL like a 13 year old boys who have taken a DOUBLE dose of Viagra! "I don't know EXACTLY what this thing IS...BUT, I'M using IT! AND I'M USING IT NOW!!!! MOOOOOVE out of my way!!!!:biggrin:
 
For the 3/8" bar that I used for my other tool, I put water putty into the handle's hole before pressing the bar into the handle. The "round pen in a square hole" left the tool a little jiggly in the handle (even with the set screw).

Water putty gets rock hard, so the tool will have a nice, squared "seat" in there.
 
Why do you have to make a new handle? If the handle is too long, can't you just cut of the length that you no longer want and sand it with a bench sander and finish by hand and apply your finish?
 
I have one of those hard to find 120 drill bit sets that are available just about everywhere. :wink: And found the drill bit that provided a snug fit for the shaft on mine. I drilled the hole, turned the handle between centers with the hole as the reference point on one end, and used a piece of 3/4 inch copper pipe as a ferrule. I use a bit of GG on the ferrule, but nothing on the shaft.


My understanding of all this is that the ferrule is to prevent the wood from splitting from the outward pressure the shaft will put on it occasionally (when you get a catch). And as long as the tool isn't sliding in and out of the handle , why would you need glue?
 
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