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howsitwork

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Has anyone experience one of the Penn state carbide insert trimming systems? I'm looking at it compared to the Ultra shear one.

Just wanted to gather views as got to import it and that ain't cheap.

Ian
 
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magpens

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Is this the one (5/8") ? .... USD $24.50, half the price of the Ultra-shear (3/4")


Just for reference, here's the Ultra-shear

 

howsitwork

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No penn state have brought out a new one, copying the ultra shear one

the damn thread title moved before i completed it ( big fingers on ipad keyboard , Oops)
 

howsitwork

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only difference I can see is that the guides don't ream the tubes internally to remove epoxy traces but it's still a damn site cheaper. I can make my own D bit type guides for it on my metal lathe
 

howsitwork

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The telling thing is the guide length as that keeps the cutters square to the face of the blank end of the tube ie at 90* square to the tube end which is what we want ! It helps that the ultra shear one also effectively reams the tube removing any excess epoxy etc from inside it but I tend to clear that myself using dental picks / scrapers anyway.
I am a bit concerned the penn state one seems to use sleeves around the 7mm guide but please let us know what you think of it.
 

pshrynk

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On the Ultrasheer one, I have had some problems with getting it to be smooth. Light touches are the key and I sometimes have trouble getting it done. Also, the kit of guides that you get does not have an 8 mm guide, so I have used a sleeve for that. As I get my experience up, i am liking the Ultrasheer more and more. Don't have the PSI version to compare.
 

penmaker134

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so I got to try it finally due to a weekend I had it is a very nice carbide cutter one thing I will say if you do get it use very light pressure I did chip two blanks that I am using for the kun lun dragon kits but was able to fix them very easily I also tried it with the blank I did with a vesper kit and it squared that blank perfectly you could not ask for a more perfect surface for me I like the carbide cutters and I believe its def worth the money but that is my opionion
 

howsitwork

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Brian ( hope you don't mind the informality ?)

I thought the ultra shear one came with cutting type guides ? They look like that on the illustrations. TpBy that I mean there is a short drill bit type piece at the end that removes bits of epoxy from the tube ends as you use it? If not then the Penn state one beats it hands down on price but that one states it comes with sleeves to put over the central 7 mm sized shaft.
 

howsitwork

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Adam thanks for the information I use a drill,press for this process so gentle touch is readily achievable. carbide really needs very high speeds to work properly ( I am told) so I'm certainly NOT hand holding it!
 

pshrynk

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Brian ( hope you don't mind the informality ?)

I thought the ultra shear one came with cutting type guides ? They look like that on the illustrations. TpBy that I mean there is a short drill bit type piece at the end that removes bits of epoxy from the tube ends as you use it? If not then the Penn state one beats it hands down on price but that one states it comes with sleeves to put over the central 7 mm sized shaft.
They do have a drill bit-like end. There just isn't an 8 mm guide. Goes from 7 mm to "O". That's the only size I've run into that doesn't have a specific guide.
 

RicklesssS

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They do have a drill bit-like end. There just isn't an 8 mm guide. Goes from 7 mm to "O". That's the only size I've run into that doesn't have a specific guide.
I'll have to look in my machinist handbooks be sure, but I thought "O" was 8mm, or at least close enough to it?
 

howsitwork

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Rick

Drill bit size " O " is near to 8.2 mm so might be a bit big depending upon actual tube size? you probably actually want about a 7.9 or even 7.8 mm bit to clean out the tube without scoring it if there's any glue stuck inside.
 

pshrynk

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It's a bit big for some, I guess. I tried to use the "O" on an 8 mm kit. I think it was an Every Day EDC from PSI. The guide definitely did not fit and I was not willing to try to jam it in. The 8 mm sleeve I had worked just fine.
 

howsitwork

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Brian

If you used the letter O drill to cut the hole for an 8mm tube in sticky or difficult wood like lignum vitae it should work fine but at 8.2mm its oversize Nd not going to fit into an 8mm external diameter tube it's just going to annihilate it !
The tube internally will be about 7.8 to 7.9mm to allow for the tube wall thickness, sorry if that's staying the obvious but I'm not sure from your reply about jamming it in !

Les

thanks for that warning . I must admit I still fancy getting one as I can carefully control the amount of cutting Is do using my drill press with depth stops if need be . Depending upon the shearing angle the blades are set it I guess it could seriously chip out plastics and if overseen it could have at up casu8ng end checking in hard woods.
 

howsitwork

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I do find you need slighty larger drills than normal in resinous woods such as lignum though. The hole seems to swell back after drilling and no way would the 8 mm tube go in even after cleaning the hole out with cellulose thinners to remove any resin
 

qquake

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Yes, the Ultra-Shear is scary sharp. Yes, it will tear out blanks if you're not careful. I'm having to relearn how to use a barrel trimmer. But I love it. If you're careful, it will leave a much cleaner surface than other trimmers. I also like having four cutting surfaces on the carbide cutters. Just rotate them when they get dull, and finally replace them when needed. So far, I only have the 7mm and 3/8" pilots, but plan on getting more. I can always make a sleeve to fit on the 7mm pilot, if needed.
 

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pshrynk

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I have to wonder if hand- holding the blanks (with the padded vise grip) is a part of my problem. Looking at the results from a drill press, the result is much more smooth. Of course if i start talking about needing a drill press there will be some discussion on why I sold the last one i had when we moved. :rolleyes:
 
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